Thanks for all the suggestions on lube, I'll start by being a lot more liberal with the stuff I got first.
My Nosler reloading guide warns to NEVER lube the case neck section to avoid dents neck dents...is this not really an issue?
@highpower790, appreciate the offer. I'll take you up on that if I can get this figured out.
@Khromo - .3055-.306" sound about right?
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Super stiff pull when resizing
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The issue is on the 2nd motion, or up stroke? I'm new to reloading, and I have the same problem w/ my "cleaned" 223 cases, though not nearly as bad as my dirty 308 cases.The only real resistance you should feel on the down stroke would be the expander ball opening up the neck. If this is a problem, then the use of dry lube (graphite powder or fine mica powder) will take care of that.
From your post, it sounds as though this is a new phenomenon and that you previously had no problem. If so, what did you change?
If your lube isn't working for you, go to another lube. I find Hornady One-Shot case lube to be too thick and tacky for me, so I use Lee case lube (diluted with water), Frankford arsenal, or Dillon. The Lee is put in a spray bottle and the others come in a spray bottle, I like to spray the lube in a plastic bag and tumble a hand-full of cases in the bag. You have to allow these lubes to dry for about 2 minutes before trying to size a case.
Add weight to your bench if needed. Putting a shelf down low to hold your bullet boxes can help.
yea, I'll have to work on getting more weight on the shelf.Leave a comment:
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The inside of the case neck should be lightly lubed, but if your problem is that severe you probably need to jump all over your expander ball.
Expander balls cause a lot of problems, and rarely get blamed for anything. When your ball is rough or oversized, and yours sounds like it is probably both, it overworks your brass, it can pull your case shoulder way out of spec, and generally messes up an otherwise good day.
Most reloaders would be well advised to make a habit of measuring and polishing their expander balls before attempting to use their brand new dies. Disassemble the die and clean the preservative off, then measure the expander. On almost all dies it will at least need to be polished, if not heavily polished.
You can do this by chucking the decapping stem in your electric screwdriver (a drill will do but keep the speed down) and masking off the areas north and south of the ball. Then fold some high quality 1,000 grit sandpaper over the ball and spin it at a moderate speed, including the radii at each end. Continue with 1,200/1,500/2,000 grit paper. Go slow, measure your work often, and your die should perform better.
Then go drink some iced cold beer. You have earned it. Polishing metal makes you feel like a man!Leave a comment:
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http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...BC31gv%29&rt=d cheap lube. Free for me, I am an electrician.
Squirt some in a gallon ziplock (empty) and coat the entire walls of the ziplock with it then put your brass in and shake it around really well. Does not take that much.
Don't buy the poly-water lube or yellow #77 wire pulling lube though, it has to be the wax based stuff.Leave a comment:
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Typical problems .I use the same equipment and the way around it is to use more lube.
OP we are in the same area, if interested send a pm if you need help.Leave a comment:
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The only real resistance you should feel on the down stroke would be the expander ball opening up the neck. If this is a problem, then the use of dry lube (graphite powder or fine mica powder) will take care of that.
From your post, it sounds as though this is a new phenomenon and that you previously had no problem. If so, what did you change?
If your lube isn't working for you, go to another lube. I find Hornady One-Shot case lube to be too thick and tacky for me, so I use Lee case lube (diluted with water), Frankford arsenal, or Dillon. The Lee is put in a spray bottle and the others come in a spray bottle, I like to spray the lube in a plastic bag and tumble a hand-full of cases in the bag. You have to allow these lubes to dry for about 2 minutes before trying to size a case.
Add weight to your bench if needed. Putting a shelf down low to hold your bullet boxes can help.Leave a comment:
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Not a folding table but might as well be. Its a 24x24" portable "workbench"
Also forgot to mention the 308 hasn't been cleaned. I'm guessing left over residue doesn't help.Leave a comment:
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this will more than likely fix your stiff extraction or insertion for that matter.
Make sure your press is locked down too. If its wobbly or poorly locked down, you wont transfer that energy from the handle into sizing or extracting the brass from the die.
make your own stuff....10oz of 99% IPA and 1 oz liquid lanolin. You will have case lube for years!
FWIW, I FL size all my stuff, and occasionally, NK size my bolt action ammo. For semi-auto, its almost required to FL size to make sure to functions properly. If Im competing though, my bolt action ammo gets FL resized for reliability purposes.Leave a comment:
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Dillon spray lube works good. I quit using the small base dies. I use F/L dies for 223 and 308. they work fine in both bolt action and semi.
I hope your not using a folding table as a workbench.Leave a comment:
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No resistance without brass. I'm using the RCBS spray lube that came with my kit. Sprayed each side and let it rest for 3 min.
I literally have to hold the bench down with my left arm. Looks like I'll give my arms a good workout with this setup. Also, brass looks to be OK after resized.Leave a comment:
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Do you use any kind of lube on the inside of the case neck? If not, some graphite might be wise to use, but, very sparingly. I've used a old .223 or .30 cal brush with a small amount of lube on it, couple of passes through the case neck will probably help a lot.Last edited by ARKLITE881South; 08-30-2014, 4:07 PM.Leave a comment:
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Mabe it seems stiff to you because of your workbench. There has aleays been resistance for meLeave a comment:
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