Help setting up/buying equipment.

[dooodstevenn]

So I'm trying to reload .223/5.56 for the first time and wanted to make sure I had everything I need.

Tumbler & Media
depriming and priming tool.
primer pocket cleaning tool
Case length gauge and trimmer
Chamfering tool
case lube
Case headspace gauge
press (probably going with lee's turret kit)
die set (with the lee classic turret, not too sure which die set to get as it seems some are missing thing's I'd want)
Digital scale that measures in grains

bullets/cases/powder/primers

Anything I'm missing?

Also what kind of resizing, if at all, is recommended for 223/556. I'm trying to get the most out of my brass, and was reading neck resizing would be best but might not work too well out of a semi-auto rifle. Any insight would be appreciated.

[ZER0_]

Looks like you got most of it, with the exception of a way to swage or ream the crimped primer pockets, a dial caliper for measuring and reloading/load data books. You can use the Lee chamfering tool (I'm assuming that's what your gonna use) to remove the crimp. Not ideal, but it'll get the job done. Get more than one book if you can. You can use them to cross reference.

Might also want to add a bullet puller and a stuck case extractor kit just in case.

Small base dies are usually recommended when loading for semi-auto. They work the brass a bit more improving feeding/fitment at the cost of reducing overall case life, or so I've read. I won't say that this information is wrong, however I will tell you that I'm using full length RCBS .223 dies without any problems.

[jwc]

I really like Lee's pistol dies, but have had bad experiences with their rifle dies including .223. When I replaced my Lee .223 dies with the following:

http://www.hornady.com/store/223-Rem-.224-2-Die-Set/

I had much better results. Specifically, bullet seating and crimping/retention worked much better with Hornady vs. Lee dies. I was not able to make any adjustment on the Lee dies to consistently retain the bullet in the case.

I prefer to lube rifle cases with Imperial Sizing Wax vs. Hornady One Shot Case Lube. One Shot works great for pistol cases though.

You might want to consider having one of these on hand:

https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/MainServlet?storeId=webconnect&catalogId=webconnect&langId=en_US&action=ProductDisplay&screenlabel=index&productId=3647

The Lee 90064 Classic 4 Hole Turret Press works very well for loading both pistol and rifle cartridges. I remove the indexing rod when loading rifle, which essentially converts it into a single stage press. I recommend the Classic cast press vs. the standard even though it costs a little more. Either will work, but the Classic cast is a much stronger press.

[popeye4]

What gun are you loading for? Neck sizing is only appropriate if you are dedicating your ammo to fire in one specific bolt action gun. If you are loading for a gas gun, you may need to get small base dies. Full length reszing dies don't actually resize the full length; you need a small base die for that. You may experience chambering issues otherwise. Not sure if Lee makes a small base die (I've pretty much standardized on Redding dies, with a few RCBS dies thrown in).

[ExtremeX]

Loading for many different .223 rifles I've never once actually needed a small base die... id say go with a standard FL sizing die first as your goal is not to overwork the brass.

The case headspace gauge / comparator is a wise purchase, I use the Hornady kit, and will help you get the FL sizing die dialed in correctly. Using the minimal amount of shoulder bump will also help increase case life.

[Divernhunter]

Loading block

[madjack956]

Primer flip tray.

[Bumslie]

Loading manual.

Calipers.

[roc_my_tims]

Jwc hotnady die suggestions is spot on. I like mines so far. There under $30 on midway.com right now and come with the free bullet offer and a supposedly good warrenty so there a winner in my book.

[JMP]

If you want the best accuracy, use all matching brass that has no dents (same capacity and weight), and seat with the Redding comp die. Neck sizing is not that crucial as long as they are uniform. There is really not enough variance in brass thickness gain that much advantage from measuring the neck thickness and setting tension.

If you are just using 55gr FMJ type ammo in an AR, getting OCD with case prep is a waste of time. Just pop 'em out on a Dillon as your time is better spent elsewhere or on the range.

[___M|9||___]

I'm assuming you're not going to make a mistake since you didn't mention bullet puller?

[ExtremeX]

+1 on JMPs recommendation for a competition seating die. It took me a while to warm up to spending the cash on one, but after using it, I bought them for every rifle caliber I load for.

I generally use the Forster Ultra Micrometer, but for bulk 223 loading the RCBS Comp Seater with the loading window makes for a nice workflow on a progressive.

[Kaisa]

+1 on comp dies. Worth every damn penny if just for the drop hole. 223 is a really annoying caliber to load without them IMO. I am sure someone will say that the cheap dies work fine but I'd put money on the fact that they've never used comp dies.

[ExtremeX]

In addition to that, all of my Forster comp seaters match my bullet profiles a lot better than my standard dies. I cant speak for all standard dies but when compared to 223 and 308 RCBS seating dies, the Forster contacts the bullet a lot closer to the ogive for the bullets I use.

End results and more consistency in seating. Often times I can zero out my calipers across the batch and its almost always spot on. I'm sure its help concentricity too with the bullet guide but I don't have any tools to measure it. Results down range are good enough for me not to care.

[dooodstevenn]

Thanks for all the replies, I've added more items to my list. As for mixed brass .223/5.56 would I have to sort each and have a different recipe for each?