Smelting for the first time. First run! I can use some criticism or tips

[glock 357]

[update]
Ok so problems fixed. Little more reading and suggestions helped a lot thank you all.

New Question: using a lee mold and combined liquid alox (cause I'm still shopping for a lubrisizer-sizer and a good mold). This stuff is sticky..... However one bullet I had shaved a small amount of lead and tried wiping it down with a t-shirt and wiped off way too much. My curiously kicked in and was wondering is it worth wiping it off the bullet tip since groves are lubed? I'm a little concerned on how much the feed ramp will gunk up as well as magazine and fingers while loading the magazine. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

[update]

Well it really wasn't my first run. First run came out horrible. This 2nd run looking better but comparing to other home made casts, I can't seem to get these wrinkle and nicks knocked out.

Tell me something here.... What am I missing or am I just trying too hard to make these look laser cut and they will work fine? Any help/suggestion/comments will be greatly appreciate.

[BigBronco]

The wrinkles are mostly from your mold not being hot enough yet. Get a hot plate and rest your mold on it to warm it up. If that is not enough adding 2% tin to your mix will help your molds fill out.

[glock 357]

Where's a good place to get tin? I'm starting to think I'm working w some hard lead. Looking at videos online people running pots at 4-6 and I'm at 8 in the sun working theses. I'm running a few rounds to help warm up the mold as well.

[BigBronco]

Aluminum molds cool quick that is why steel molds are preferred. Tin cam be bought at Roto metals. http://www.rotometals.com/ OR it can be got sometimes in the cheap by buying old pewter table ware something found at the good will or thrift shops. Pewter is about 90% or a bit more tin. a ot of good info can be found at http://castboolits.gunloads.com/.

Here also s a great link with enough info to drive you nuts.

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

[meaty-btz]

yep cold mold. I use a hot-plate as well. I get the molds up to just below frosting levels. And work from there as the heat evens up during use (cooling) from the aluminum. If I want to switch molds the mold goes back on the hot-plate.

[Pablo5959]

Well it really wasn't my first run. First run came out horrible. This 2nd run looking better but comparing to other home made casts, I can't seem to get these wrinkle and nicks knocked out.

Tell me something here.... What am I missing or am I just trying too hard to make these look laser cut and they will work fine? Any help/suggestion/comments will be greatly appreciate.

Glock
Tell us about your alloy.
Is this soft lead.
Wheel Weight mix?
What temp are you casting?
Bottom pour pot?
The shinny wrinkle bullets usually mean the alloy and mold are to cold.
Also set your spout to pour a cast in about a 1/2 second. You want it to pour fast but you don't want the lead to jump out the mold when it tops off.
Try to get the alloy up to 700 degrees with the mold sitting on top of the pot.
That mold cast easy, I usually only have to do 3 or 4 casts and I'm GTO.
Your next project should be a PID. It's easy to make at about 50.00 total.
Set and forget. One less thing to thing about. Your temp will stay 3+-degrees.

[glock 357]

Wheel weights. Temp unknown. I have the pot on setting 8 which is a lee production pot. Lower end one. And yes bottom pour.

And yes I sit the mold on top. Previous comment on dipping the molds corners as suggested. As well as running a few with the lead sitting in longer in the mold to warm it up.

What's a PID?

[bigedp51]

Wheel weights. Temp unknown. I have the pot on setting 8 which is a lee production pot. Lower end one. And yes bottom pour.

What's a PID?

Two choices

1. Pelvic inflammatory disease (PID) (caused by some STDs, like chlamydia and gonorrhea)

2. proportional-integral-derivative controller (PID controller) is a temperature controller used for bullet casting.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?115724-Project-PID-on-Lee-Pro-4-20-furnace

http://www.lasc.us/DualPIDTempControl.htm

[Pablo5959]

Wheel weights. Temp unknown. I have the pot on setting 8 which is a lee production pot. Lower end one. And yes bottom pour.

And yes I sit the mold on top. Previous comment on dipping the molds corners as suggested. As well as running a few with the lead sitting in longer in the mold to warm it up.

What's a PID?

You need to know what temp your running to cast constantly. If you go with a thermometer, make sure it goes up to 800 degrees. It's going to cost $35. Min.
You can get it at Rotometals.
Or... Here's 26 pages of reading material.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?115724-Project-PID-on-Lee-Pro-4-20-furnace

Looks like big beat me to the link.

I got lucky with the project box, salvaged with a cooling fan and power inlet.
But I've seen them made from a .30cal can. Looks cool

[glock 357]

LMAO

Thanks for that info. This is getting very interesting... Thanks for the link

I'm digging that PID. However my wallet is not liking the overall cost of things I'm going to have to invest in but seems well worth it since some of the older rifles ammo is hard to find. However I do have brass for them.

Really appreciate all the info guys! You all doing great.

[glock 357]

You need to know what temp your running to cast constantly. If you go with a thermometer, make sure it goes up to 800 degrees. It's going to cost $35. Min.
You can get it at Rotometals.
Or... Here's 26 pages of reading material.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?115724-Project-PID-on-Lee-Pro-4-20-furnace

Looks like big beat me to the link.

I got lucky with the project box, salvaged with a cooling fan and power inlet.
But I've seen them made from a .30cal can. Looks cool

WOW That's NICE

[Bainter1212]

Wiping solder has a ton of tin in it. I just sold several cakes of wiping solder.