Source For Casting Supplies / Equipment In Bay Area?

[Ugly Dwarf]

I'm slowly building up the necessary equipment to start casting bullets. I've got about 100 lbs of wheel weights at home and was hoping to start by melting them down and making them into ingots (lead muffins).

I've got a heat source, a cast iron pot and muffin tins (and associated safety gear), but wanted to put my hands on some flux, a 200 - 1000 degree thermometer and a lead dipper.

I know where I can get this stuff via mail order, but was wondering if anyone in the East Bay / South Bay carries casting equipment and supplies? This is new to me, so it's not something I've been on the lookout for in the past.

I understand local shops wont have the "Best Price", but I don't mind supporting local shops at a premium when the budget permits. Any place between San Jose and Concord on 680 would be on a regular driving route for me, and I'd be willing to go 10 miles beyond either.

Any suggestions? Otherwise I'll just figure to place my order with Midsouth Shooters.

Thanks,

Dwarf

[scrat]

flux. use candel wax. works perfect

[bohoki]

flux. use candel wax. works perfect

yup some votive candles and a spoon is what i use on my lee aluminum molds

if you do it right you can pour the lead into both holes at the same time


i'm a cheapskate and just use a cast iron skillet on a coleman 425e

ive never used a thermometer when its liquid i start cleaning the crud off the top with the spoon

set the mold in the lead and when it stops sticking to the mold i start dipping and fillin

[Ugly Dwarf]

yup some votive candles and a spoon is what i use on my lee aluminum molds

Thanks bohoki and scrat.

How much candle wax do you use for, say, 25 pounds of wheel weights? I'll be 'cooking' out doors, so smoke shouldn't be too much of an issue.

i'm a cheapskate and just use a cast iron skillet on a coleman 425e

Yeah, I've got some cast iron stuff that sat in the same shed as pool chemicals for a few years... the chem's play hell on metal so they're all rusted up. I've debated cleaning them up for a while, but now I think melting lead in them seems like a much better use.

ive never used a thermometer when its liquid i start cleaning the crud off the top with the spoon

Is there a maximum temperature I have to be worried about with lead? I know with wax, you cook it in a double boiler to keep it from going above the flash point. I'm sure lead burns at a MUCH higher temp than I'm going to reach, but don't know if there are other concerns when it get's real hot. I'm aware that combination of liquids (water, etc...) is REAL bad with molten lead.

set the mold in the lead and when it stops sticking to the mold i start dipping and fillin

Slick idea. When it comes time to pour some bullets (right now I'm just looking to convert some weights into muffins), I'll give that a shot. Do you leave it fully submerged? If so, do you leave the sprue plate over the hole to keep the mold from filling?

Thanks for the input.

Dwarf

[Ugly Dwarf]

So, anyone in the Bay Area aware of a shop that carries bullet casting equipment and supplies?

For what I'm planning to do in the near term, I can get by with pouring from the pot/pan. For the long term, I think I'll need a laddle of some sort.

[tony stark]

casting equipment

i cut a propane bottle, the kind you use for a hand torch, and cut it in two. then i screwed a handle on to it and it's all i've ever needed.

[Snapping Twig]

Imbert & Smithers on El Camino in San Carlos has a limited supply of reloading, casting and sizing equipment.

My advice for moulds and such is to check suppliers like Midway for selection and price.

Further...fwiw

Get a dedicated bottom pour furnace. Lee makes an inexpensive version, but a larger 11 kilo unit can keep bigger quantities of lead ready for pour. This will become important to you eventually, even if you only cast 100 ~ 200 rounds a session.

The moulds you select will determine the type of lube system you need - size and lube in a press, or pan lube.

Wax fluxing is safer - no poisonous fumes from an industrial flux. Wax flashes, so remain calm and it burns off quick.

Check out CastBoolits:

https://www.Castboolits.com

Plenty of help there. Good luck, welcome to the world of home made rounds.

[bohoki]

Slick idea. When it comes time to pour some bullets (right now I'm just looking to convert some weights into muffins), I'll give that a shot. Do you leave it fully submerged? If so, do you leave the sprue plate over the hole to keep the mold from filling?

Thanks for the input.

Dwarf

since i use a skillet it is shallow like normally less than an inch deep of lead

so i don't let the mold sink below the handle mounts
it is basically to heat the mold also use a match to blacken the cavities for a non stick surface

and then drop the bullets into a little gallon bucket of water

defineatly never allow a drop of water to hit the molten lead
so no matter how tempted you are to pull out the ugly casts and throw them back in to melt don't

it takes a lot of time to overheat the lead on a 425e chances are you will run out of fuel before the lead would bubble

my last batch was fired fragments and there was lots of crud and sand like stuff floating and under the lead when i alowed it to cool i dont know if i am accidentally seperating the tin or what

because i don't know what i am doing either

i like the idea of a propane bottle as a melting pot and as a mold for making ingots

also when using flame heat the wax smoke will burst into flames so be prepared for that

[Ugly Dwarf]

Imbert & Smithers on El Camino in San Carlos has a limited supply of reloading, casting and sizing equipment.

My advice for moulds and such is to check suppliers like Midway for selection and price.

Thanks. I may check out I&S when I go to Palo Alto later this week. Otherwise I'll just figure to go mail order from Midway or Mid South.

Further...fwiw

Get a dedicated bottom pour furnace. Lee makes an inexpensive version, but a larger 11 kilo unit can keep bigger quantities of lead ready for pour. This will become important to you eventually, even if you only cast 100 ~ 200 rounds a session.

Thanks for the recomendation. Based on my expected needs and from what I've read, I'll probably end up with a Lee furnace (I'm leaning towards the bottom pour 20lb model to which you referred), but am just starting out at this point and want to make sure I'll stay with it before I spend $100-$200 on equipment.

The moulds you select will determine the type of lube system you need - size and lube in a press, or pan lube.

Can you elaborate? Which molds do not require sizing? I was under the impression that all cast bullets should be sized in a press (I'm not claiming to be knowledgable here though). It would save me a bit of time not having to size. I have heard you can drop the cast bullets in water to raise the hardness, but I understand sizing will negate this effect. If you size, I understand you need to re-heat the sized bullets, quench and then lube.

Regarding press vs. pan lube, do you use Lee's spray lube? Any experience with or thoughts about that? Something to stay away from?

Wax fluxing is safer - no poisonous fumes from an industrial flux. Wax flashes, so remain calm and it burns off quick.

Thanks, I'll keep my face out of the pot.

Any thoughts on how much wax to use for a pot of lead? A few shavings? An entire votive candle (I assume cut up and wick removed)?

Check out CastBoolits:

https://www.Castboolits.com

Plenty of help there. Good luck, welcome to the world of home made rounds.

Thanks for the link. I've seen the site, but I'll check it out some more.

[Snapping Twig]

You should size your bullets. The mould type should state pan lube or traditional lube type. Check them out at Midway on line to observe the difference. I like the traditional method, but it's a personal choice.

How much wax to use...

I hold a candle against the SS spoon I use to stir the lead for say.. two seconds give or take. Enough drips off and then I stir and try not to be in the wrong spot when it flashes.

WW cast @ 700 degrees do not need to be water quenched. I try to keep water out of the room when I cast - why add a dimention of danger?

Size your boolits .001 over bore size (.358 for a .357) and you won't worry about leading. Using a brass bore brush and some strands of a Chore Boy (solid brass) wrapped around it cleans out the toughest leading if you find any.

You'll have a lot of duds before the mould is up to temp, so toss them back until you have a well shaped boolit. Frosted is quite alright, but you want to keep the mould from smearing the lead under the sprue plate, so it's a balancing act. Given enough time in service, all this will become second nature.

Enjoy and email me if you have any questions and I'll help as best I can.

[Ugly Dwarf]

Thanks for the tips. I'll email you if / when I have questions I can't answer at Cast Boolits or in the Lyman manual... and if history is any indicator, I WILL have questions.

[otteray]

Beware of zinc wheel weights that will be floating before the pot reaches it's higher melting point. Just one can ruin the whole batch.
That's why I use a thermometer.

[Ugly Dwarf]

Beware of zinc wheel weights that will be floating before the pot reaches it's higher melting point. Just one can ruin the whole batch.
That's why I use a thermometer.

Hey, thanks for that. I've been reading over at Cast Boolits and had come across that there too.

I'll be on the lookoug for ZN marked weights and for any that seem to float as I slowly bring the pot up to melting point.

I'm pretty sure I'll get a thermometer in the near future, I just need to get off my cheep arse and place an order.

[SchooBaka]

Beware of zinc wheel weights that will be floating before the pot reaches it's higher melting point. Just one can ruin the whole batch.
That's why I use a thermometer.

I've started collecting the wheel weights from the shop I work at in anticipation of casting my own bullets in the future.

Are zinc weights identified only by a zn mark? Is there any other way to differentiate visually before they make it into the melting pot?

[SchooBaka]

Well crap!
Just did a search on zinc wheel weights and came up with this article:

Steel and Zinc Wheel Weights Mandatory in 2009

Start hording lead now.
Looks like the politicians are still busy saving us from ourselves!