308 Resizing Die Selection

[propman07]

Personally, I ended up getting a Forster Co-Ax to resize my .308 cases, as my LNL AP had a lot less mechanical advantage. I found that my FAL has a somewhat loose chamber, allowing the base of the case to expand a little more than a usual .308 or 7.62 gun (probably for reliability purposes), and resizing was simply a ***** on the LNL. I got the Forster (was thinking of getting a dedicated single stage for resizing anyways), and found it was a lot easier. Another oddity I found was that using Imperial Sizing Wax actually made it harder to resize than easier on the Forster, and when I went to Lee lube, it was a lot easier. I guess it has something to do with the viscosity of the two lubes, and how Lee is water-based, allowing it to flow better in the die, leading to less resistance? I use a normal Lee .308 full length resizing die and I've found that the shoulder is bumping back consistently, no need for a second try in the resizing process. I still case gauge cases just to make sure, but it seems that the Forster is a lot more reliable in full length resizing .308 brass than my LNL AP ever was. Lee claims that their die is in-between a normal .308 die and a small-base .308 die. Whether that's true or not, I have no idea, but it's been working fine so far. Knock on wood, the reloaded cases are working well in my FAL with the looser chamber, and my SA National Match M1A, with a tighter .308 chamber, no problems.

Thanks for the feedback. I may look into the Lee resizing lube as well as their die....interesting.

You also have me thinking seriously about picking up a single stage press primarily to resize my 308 brass. Thanks again for sharing your experiences.

[JMP]

Single stage press, imperial sizing wax, Redding type S sizing die, neck sizing bushings .332-.337" depending on brass. Lee decapping die is a waste of time.

[propman07]

Single stage press, imperial sizing wax, Redding type S sizing die, neck sizing bushings .332-.337" depending on brass. Lee decapping die is a waste of time.

Why is the Lee decapping die a waste of time?

[JMP]

Why is the Lee decapping die a waste of time?

Just decap with a Redding sizing die it's much stronger and replacement pins are about $0.25. The Lee "Universal" Decapping die doesn't even fit larger rifle cases.

[peacedivision]

My opinion, unless hes loading match ammo for his LR308 the redding die is overkill and overpriced.

Lube with lanolin + 99% iso home made lube, FL size & decap, trim, chamfer & debur, fix up flash holes and primer pockets if you want, tumble and load.

If you want to be super anal match ammo maker...

Decap, swage/ream out crimps, uniform primer pockets, tumble, lube, FL size with the redding bushing die, trim, chamfer & debur, uniform flash holes, tumble again, load. Maybe turn necks for maximum anal points?

[propman07]

Just decap with a Redding sizing die it's much stronger and replacement pins are about $0.25. The Lee "Universal" Decapping die doesn't even fit larger rifle cases.

I was trying to decapp in a different station that I was resizing in to try to split the work load. I thought that might be part of the problem with stuck cases that I was having. I was able to get the universal die to work with both 223 and 308 cases with no issues....

My opinion, unless hes loading match ammo for his LR308 the redding die is overkill and overpriced.

Lube with lanolin + 99% iso home made lube, FL size & decap, trim, chamfer & debur, fix up flash holes and primer pockets if you want, tumble and load.

If you want to be super anal match ammo maker...

Decap, swage/ream out crimps, uniform primer pockets, tumble, lube, FL size with the redding bushing die, trim, chamfer & debur, uniform flash holes, tumble again, load. Maybe turn necks for maximum anal points?

Thanks for the reply. Right now, I'm reloading for a LR308 to just punch holes in paper at the range....no match ammo for me.....just plinking stuff.

I tried using the home made lube with the 99% alcohol and lanolin. I think that I screwed up because the lanolin that I found was in a gell form, not liquid.

I pretty much follow the process you described....I was just trying to figure out how other people are resizing their brass, and if they are running into as much trouble as I am. I'm getting to be pretty good at removing stuck cases by drilling/taping the primer pocket, but I would rather be getting pretty good at reloading quality ammo.

[peacedivision]

This is the lanolin I use, 2oz mixed with 16oz 99% iso. One spray is more than enough for 50+ 308 cases.

Just toss all the cases in a tupperware container, give em a spray and toss everything around, when it stops smelling like alcohol and smells like hay/barnyard you are ready to go.

[propman07]

This is the lanolin I use, 2oz mixed with 16oz 99% iso. One spray is more than enough for 50+ 308 cases.

Just toss all the cases in a tupperware container, give em a spray and toss everything around, when it stops smelling like alcohol and smells like hay/barnyard you are ready to go.

Thanks. I'll see about ordering some of that, and give it a try....thanks for your help.

[JMP]

I was trying to decapp in a different station that I was resizing in to try to split the work load. I thought that might be part of the problem with stuck cases that I was having. I was able to get the universal die to work with both 223 and 308 cases with no issues....

The Universal Decapping die doesn't hurt, and it will work fine with small short action calibers like .223 and .308, It won't hurt, but it is a superfluous step, IMO since a better sizing die will decap simultaneously. Hornady dies are notoriously bad for rifle.

Thanks for the reply. Right now, I'm reloading for a LR308 to just punch holes in paper at the range....no match ammo for me.....just plinking stuff.

I tried using the home made lube with the 99% alcohol and lanolin. I think that I screwed up because the lanolin that I found was in a gell form, not liquid.

I pretty much follow the process you described....I was just trying to figure out how other people are resizing their brass, and if they are running into as much trouble as I am. I'm getting to be pretty good at removing stuck cases by drilling/taping the primer pocket, but I would rather be getting pretty good at reloading quality ammo.

A spray lube has worked fine for me with .223, but I'd go with the Imperial Sizing wax for anything larger. The downside is that you'll want to retumble after prep, but many do that anyways. The wax gives FAR less resistance than a spray lube. If you plan to do .308 on a progressive, I'd give them a rub of wax as a spray is going to result in more resistance than I'd want on the shellplate.

I think your process would be faster just using a single stage and full size Redding with type S neck, since your decapping and sizing is done on one pull. Since everyone and his brother makes .308 brass, going from Winchester to Lapua is ~.003" difference in your neck thickness, so your final cartridge can vary by .006" in outer neck diameter. That's too much room for error in my book for neck tension if your die doesn't make a good pairing with your brass.

[thenodnarb]

I also say its a lube problem. The only lube that has worked for me is the RCBS case lube (lanolin)applied to the case lube pad and all the cases rolled on the pad. I also apply the lube for the inside of the neck with a brush. Applying it to the tip of the case mouth does nothing, since the neck is sized by the expander ball on the way OUT of the case.

The only time I've had stuck cases was when I started using spray lube. Never again. But lanolin with alcohol sounds good since its the same kind of lubricant.

[Syntax Error]

One thing that's nice about the Forster Co-Ax is that the mechanical advantage is very good and the unique shellholder has a better grip on the rim that slipping off the rim on a less ideally lubed case won't cause a stuck case. You can actually get away with resizing a lubed case and an unlubed case and not get a stuck case in the press.

It's expensive for a single stage but I figure buy once cry once.

[propman07]

The Universal Decapping die doesn't hurt, and it will work fine with small short action calibers like .223 and .308, It won't hurt, but it is a superfluous step, IMO since a better sizing die will decap simultaneously. Hornady dies are notoriously bad for rifle.


A spray lube has worked fine for me with .223, but I'd go with the Imperial Sizing wax for anything larger. The downside is that you'll want to retumble after prep, but many do that anyways. The wax gives FAR less resistance than a spray lube. If you plan to do .308 on a progressive, I'd give them a rub of wax as a spray is going to result in more resistance than I'd want on the shellplate.

I think your process would be faster just using a single stage and full size Redding with type S neck, since your decapping and sizing is done on one pull. Since everyone and his brother makes .308 brass, going from Winchester to Lapua is ~.003" difference in your neck thickness, so your final cartridge can vary by .006" in outer neck diameter. That's too much room for error in my book for neck tension if your die doesn't make a good pairing with your brass.

Thanks for the reply. I think that I'll look into a single stage just for resizing the 308 brass. You bring up quite a few good points. Thanks.

I also say its a lube problem. The only lube that has worked for me is the RCBS case lube (lanolin)applied to the case lube pad and all the cases rolled on the pad. I also apply the lube for the inside of the neck with a brush. Applying it to the tip of the case mouth does nothing, since the neck is sized by the expander ball on the way OUT of the case.

The only time I've had stuck cases was when I started using spray lube. Never again. But lanolin with alcohol sounds good since its the same kind of lubricant.

Thanks for the reply. I will see if I can pick up some RCBS case lube, if the liquid lanolin/99% alcohol doesn't seem to do the trick.

[JMP]

Thanks for the reply. I will see if I can pick up some RCBS case lube, if the liquid lanolin/99% alcohol doesn't seem to do the trick.

RCBS case lube works great, I just prefer the wax since I, personally, find it more user friendly to apply. I am not that anal with my lube except on expensive brass sets. It annoys me to no end to have an odd lot because I damaged a piece.

[damndave]

Just use the DIY case lube and you will never buy anything else.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=785134

[propman07]

Just use the DIY case lube and you will never buy anything else.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=785134

Thanks....placed the order for the alcohol and liquid lanolin. I'll give that a shot when it shows up.