Drilling works well, but in the future, use a smaller diameter drill bit with a material that will not heat up the lead. Go slowly and cut through the bullet. This should weaken the structure enough so that it'll pop out with a mallet. Don't use a bit that thick, or you may scrape the barrel, which is bad news. Make sure you don't heat that sucker up drilling, or the lead will expand, making it more tightly jammed or even give the barrel a bulge.
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Help with a squib
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Next time use a piece of weldable steel round rod. Lowes or HD has it. Drilling it out?
NRA Benefactor MemberComment
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Do NOT use any steel rods, use a correct fitting brass rod only, it will be impossible to damage the barrel because the brass is softer than steel.
Second, use a small 4 Lb. Drilling Hammer, (baby sledgehammer) you need weight/mass/inertia to move the bullet.
Third, put some one inch boards between the the jaws of the vice and take the grips off and get a good tight grip on the frame.
Forth, no love taps, pretend you are hitting your mother-in-law in the head.Last edited by bigedp51; 02-25-2014, 12:42 AM.Comment
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It's fixed.
We used a chicken leg bone wrapped with a shrink wrap condom.
Then beat on it with a bag of hand cuffs.
Came right out like a midnight hooker running from her pimp with no money in her pocket.
Easy peasy.
-TComment
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I didn't see anyone mention this, but you're supposed to get a wood dowel rod as close to the bore diameter as possible, and *CUT* the wood dowel rod in several pieces, maybe 3" segments. Then put these down the bore until you get one that sticks out the muzzle and start malleting that. This will prevent the rod from snapping.
Distinguished Rifleman #1924
NRA Certified Instructor (Rifle and Metallic Cartridge Reloading) and RSO
NRL22 Match Director at WEGC
https://www.ocabj.netComment
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OP, what press were you running?Comment
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Dark Mod,
Some notes for the future:
#1. Wood can split and split-wedge into the barrel. bad juju! Just cause it doesn't happen often doesn't mean it can't happen!
#2. Aluminum has a layer of oxide on the outside (ALL metal does of course). Aluminum oxide is sandpaper, and can sharpen (or dull) steel! I don't use it in gun barrels (even the military uses stainless, yes?), but if you must, IMO a crown protector is mandatory.
#3. brass rod, fairly tight fitting. But you know this already.
#4. Here's a pro tip, and it works for ANY gun. Alls you need is a pretty tight brass plug several inches long. fill the barrel with oil. right up to the crown. Cover the muzzle with electrical tape. As many layers as you need to seal between the barrel and the rod. Then put the rod over the top, press into the barrel, and start pounding. The tape is your piston ring, the brass is your piston, and oil is incompressible and will put 100% even pressure across the entire bullet.
It'll shoot out like a rocket. Ask me how I know
(don't slug your bore with linotype)Comment
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Get a bigger hammer.
XL-650 to feed the: .45ACP's Les Baer Concept V, Ruger SR 1911, Ruger Nightwatchman,custom built Colt M1911, Springfield .45ACP Loaded.. 9MM SA Range Officer,Ruger P-85, Springfield Stainless 9MM loaded, SA 9MM 5.25" XDM, Springfield 9mm Stainless Range Officer, STI double stack .45ACP.
IDPA A41750 Safety Officer
NRA Certified RSO
"Stay out of the deep end of the pool; correct the problem with your credit card, not your dremel!"Comment
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Luckily I have never reloaded a sqib... YET, but shot some that I got from a friend that got them from a friend that used to reload for him, needless to say, I only shoot mine now.
We tapped out the 9mm FMJ with a stick and my brass-tipped AR-putter-together-er-hammer.
Glad to see that you got the issue resolved.
I need to invest in some brass rods myself... just in case. I let some people use cleaning rods in the past for similar issues at the range, so "just in case's" are nice to have.Comment
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