Newbie shotshell help

[tranger03]

Good evening gentleman. I have decided to jump into reloading for shotgun. Can anybody help me identify the hulls that I have pictured, so that I can pick the right wads? Are they the same as sts hulls. They have a black plastic base wad if that helps?

[

[BigBronco]

Heck so many things wrong here. Not meant to insult buy to keep you safe and from blowing up your shotgun. It is so very important that you get a Lyman shotshell manual and follow the load data exactly. Loading for shotgun is not like loading for rifle or pistol. Every make of hull differs slightly, The correct load and wad are unbelievably important.

Next you are loading a 6 point hull meant for buckshot with standard shot. You will find it extremely difficult to good crimp to keep the shot from falling out. I suggest you use hulls for standard shot with 8 points in the crimp pattern. Please read up before you hurt yourself or some innocent bystander.

[tujungatoes]

^+1 When loading shotshells DO NOT deviate from published loads. Use only the components specified in the published data. If you can't find a load for the components you have it's because they don't work together.

[tranger03]

I understand all of what you are saying. I guess my main question is how to identify the hull that I have. I am thinking it is similar to an sts but I want to make sure. Then I can move on to getting the right wads. Then you all will be happy knowing that I'm not a complete idiot, just trying to figure something out. I poked around elsewhere to find out about the number of petals on the crimp. So far, I have not heard mention of the 8 point vs 6 point argument but I'll keep looking to verify.

[LynnJr]

In general 8 point crimp for small pellets and 6 point crimp for larger pellets.
That said once you get the right wad you'll find it will fill the case fuller and the crimp won't roll in like your getting now.

[damndave]

Absolutely do not shoot that shell you made. You need to 1st identify what hull that is and THEN you the recipe will dictate which wad, amount of shot and primer that can be used. Do not deviate from the load data.

[stevec223]

Sts hulls are low base target hulls... Those arent even close so dont load to sts loads... Also check hodgdon for shotshell loads... They have loads for high-base hulls... You going to load buckshot ??? You can also check precisionreloading.com to search out your hulls and wads for them after you find your load... Cheers...

[Revoman]

I agree with all said previously and understand you're attempting to find the proper information for those hulls.

There is a flaw though that you must address; Those hulls should probably only be loaded once, maybe twice. You see those hulls most likely have a cardboard base inside, those bases are known to come loose and possibly lodge in your barrel....well you know what happens with something lodged in your barrel.

You would be better served in either finding empties for the commonly loaded hulls such as the STS's or AA, they do not have a cardboard base and are all plastic, or simply buy new ones and once you shoot them, reload them as once fired. Then load again, and again, again....probably up to at least 6 times, many times more, like up to 10 times depending upon how stout you are loading them. The hotter the load the less loads you will get.

There is also much more information for loadings with those hulls because that's what the bulk of reloaders use.

[mjsweims]

I too would stay away from these hulls. There are a couple of pieces of misinformation though in some of the above posts.
If you have a MEC reloader it came with precrimps for 6 and 8 point crimps, so you can do either to match the hulls you have.
Finding STS and AA hulls is difficult unless you are lucky enough to be next to someone shooting fresh shells and not wanting to reload them. Or you can buy them. You can easily find Remington Gun Clubs which are very suitable for reloading in the trash at many of the trap ranges - they are low base and great for small shot target loads. They use tapered wads. The actual wad depends on the load you want to achieve. Use one of the online guides to match all the components.
In the load guides you will find that the powder charge is listed in grains. You will have to find a bushing that gives you under the stated weight. Usually there are several different velocities stated, each with a different powder charge, but with all the other components the same. Just make sure you stay with a powder charge below the maximum.
Once you get a few years experience, you'll find what components can be substituted, because the manufacturers don't list all possible combinations in their load guides.

[JagerDog]

I believe those are going to be similar to Rem Express (not STS/Gunclub) hulls. But Buck hulls could be some odd compilation.

Unless you have a shipfull of 'em, you'd be better off finding some well represented target hulls. Rem Gun Club are about the cheapest well documented and multi-reloadable hull.

[pdq_wizzard]

This is what STS shells look like


You need this book



It has all the information you need about shotgun reloading


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[Revoman]

Good calls on the Remington Club (usually black with normally 8 crimp, but have seen 6 crimp too, you should check if buying new) hulls, there are very much like the STS's and way cheaper. I forgot about those guys!

Just loading AA for years will do that I guess....

[pdq_wizzard]

Good calls on the Remington Club (usually black with normally 8 crimp, but have seen 6 crimp too, you should check if buying new) hulls, there are very much like the STS's and way cheaper. I forgot about those guys!

Just loading AA for years will do that I guess....

the problem with the new AA shells is they now have a separate base wad that can come loose, I would only reload them one maybe twice.

[tranger03]

Thanks guys for all the informative responses. I cut down one of the shells and found the inside had a plastic basewad, and is indeed the one listed in the Lyman manual. I didn't understand how the manual was depicting the plastic was in the picture. Armed with the correct hull info I just need to find all of the rest of the components and I'll be in business. Thanks again.