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Started to use the new bench, well started at least.

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  • ricknadine1111
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2008
    • 1261

    Started to use the new bench, well started at least.

    I have just finished cleaning my first batch of 1000 308 shells " nice and shiny" now I need to purchase the lube and stuck case removal kit anybody have any ideas? Such as do I get the spray lube and just spray a bunch of 308 cases in the box and shake it around and if so what brand is best? I would like to set up my dies and punch my primers out.



    WHERED IT GO !, IT'S ONLY A LITTLE LEAD.LETER SEE ,UP 40 CLICKS AND LEFT 20 CLICKS," OH DARN, I DUNO WHERE IT IS?
  • #2
    All Nav
    Member
    • May 2008
    • 125

    My recommendation for lube is Imperial Sizing Wax. Yes, you have to hand apply it, and yes that slows you down, but you won't need a stuck-case tool. I just processed 1500+ .223 cases with it, and not one got stuck or damaged in any way. I have tried the RCBS glop and the Lee glop, and by far ISW is the best. Don't take my word for it-head over to Reloadbench.com and run a search in the Case Prep forum. Or better yet, just order some and give it a try. Have fun!
    Since we're all in the same boat, let's stay in the boat!

    Comment

    • #3
      rayra
      Banned
      • Mar 2006
      • 1747

      If you are using a solvent-wax lubricant, make sure they are thoroughly dry before priming.
      If you are using any form of oil, you'll want to make sure that it doesn't get inside the cases.
      I was taught to line up all the cases side by side, multiple rows if you want, and spray them from the rim end, after priming. Keeps the lube out of the case so no chance of contaminating the powder or primer.

      Comment

      • #4
        jandmtv
        Calguns Addict
        • Oct 2007
        • 5800

        Why do you need a stuck case remover? did you try to resize a case without lube? if not, then you dont need one.

        I use Dillon spray lube, I have never had a stuck case. (put cases in a box, spray, shake around, let dry for 5 minutes)

        I would recommend tumbling for 1-2 hours after resizing to clean off the lube and any carbon buildup that breaks free from the resizing process.

        here is how i do it.

        (range pickup brass)

        tumble for 2-3 hours
        lube
        resize/deprime
        trim
        clean/uniform primer pockets (optional, but helps accuracy)
        deburr flash holes if not previously done (only needs to be done once) (optional, but helps accuracy)
        tumble 1-2 hours

        prime
        load
        Looking for RPR or Precision Rifle Accessories? Check out Anarchy Outdoors. http://www.anarchyoutdoors.com?afmc=1w

        Comment

        • #5
          Beelzy
          Calguns Addict
          • Apr 2008
          • 9225

          I use hand applied case lube (PITA but its best), I lube the body and use a
          Q-tip for the inside the case necks. I also have never needed a stuck case
          remover. If one does manage to get stuck, it will be because it wasn't lubed.
          Yankee ingenuity will take care of that issue if it arises.

          FWIW, Match primers will really make a difference, more so
          than dedurring the flash hole and tweaking the primer pockets.
          "I kill things for a living, don't make yourself one of them"

          Comment

          • #6
            f4tweet
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2005
            • 2022

            I use the RCBS lube pad and goop. It works like Buttah.

            Comment

            • #7
              Fjold
              I need a LIFE!!
              • Oct 2005
              • 23069

              I use the Hornady One-Shot now, it's a lot easier, quicker and cleaner than the lube pads. I've been using it for about 5 years and one thing that I do especially with new or just cleaned dies is spray it into the die itself before I start reloading.
              Frank

              One rifle, one planet, Holland's 375




              Life Member NRA, CRPA and SAF

              Comment

              • #8
                supersonic
                Calguns Addict
                • May 2007
                • 5885

                Imperial sizing wax for precision/match rifle rounds that you are going to load single-stage. For bulk, get a staggered block (Sinclair makes them for all calibers) + Hornady spray lube and spray across the brass. Very fast & effective. And - for progressive/turret machines lube dies are great. A stuck case remover is a must for any reloader. Period. This is simply due to Murphy's law. After I had been reloading without a hiccup for 4 years, "it" happened. And I had to stop in the middle of everything & drive 15 miles to the only gun shop that carried one (RCBS II - simple to use & highlyrecommended). Believe me, after loading for a while (no matter how careful you are) it will happen to you. And you will be very pissed if you have to go out and get one. FLAMING RAGE if you are stuck waiting for the brown truck. It's better TO have one, than NOT have one. Just some preventive "maintenance fer 'ya!!!!
                Last edited by supersonic; 07-14-2008, 3:29 AM. Reason: DOH!!!!!!!!

                *FACTORY-CERTIFIED ARMORER AT YOUR SERVICE IN SACRAMENTO, ALSO AR-15 WORK/ YUGO M59/66 SKS NIGHT SIGHTS REPLACEMENT - 916-516-7380*

                Comment

                • #9
                  Harbinger
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2005
                  • 1152

                  Originally posted by supersonic
                  A stuck case remover is a must for any reloader. Period.
                  Agree 150%. You WILL get a stuck case, there is no doubt in my mind.

                  The RCBS remover is FANTASTIC, and I recommend it to ALL RELOADERS.



                  Oh, and Supersonic, I DID have to wait for the Brown Truck so that I could un-stick my .223 die.

                  Mike


                  Join the NRA!!

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    CSACANNONEER
                    CGN/CGSSA Contributor - Lifetime
                    CGN Contributor - Lifetime
                    • Dec 2006
                    • 44094

                    Originally posted by supersonic
                    Imperial sizing wax for precision/match rifle rounds that you are going to load single-stage. For bulk, get a staggered block (Sinclair makes them for all calibers) + Hornady spray lube and spray across the brass.
                    I couldn't have said it better! This is exactly what I do.
                    NRA Certified Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun and Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor
                    California DOJ Certified Fingerprint Roller
                    Ventura County approved CCW Instructor
                    Utah CCW Instructor


                    Offering low cost multi state CCW, private basic shooting and reloading classes for calgunners.

                    sigpic
                    CCW SAFE MEMBERSHIPS HERE

                    KM6WLV

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      ricknadine1111
                      Senior Member
                      • Apr 2008
                      • 1261

                      Originally posted by jandmtv
                      Why do you need a stuck case remover? did you try to resize a case without lube? if not, then you dont need one.

                      I use Dillon spray lube, I have never had a stuck case. (put cases in a box, spray, shake around, let dry for 5 minutes)

                      I would recommend tumbling for 1-2 hours after resizing to clean off the lube and any carbon buildup that breaks free from the resizing process.

                      here is how i do it.

                      (range pickup brass)

                      tumble for 2-3 hours
                      lube
                      resize/deprime
                      trim
                      clean/uniform primer pockets (optional, but helps accuracy)
                      deburr flash holes if not previously done (only needs to be done once) (optional, but helps accuracy)
                      tumble 1-2 hours

                      prime
                      load
                      Now I know why 308 cal rounds are at least $1.00 each if not more.
                      WHERED IT GO !, IT'S ONLY A LITTLE LEAD.LETER SEE ,UP 40 CLICKS AND LEFT 20 CLICKS," OH DARN, I DUNO WHERE IT IS?

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        StraightShooter
                        Senior Member
                        • Jun 2007
                        • 2189

                        Originally posted by ricknadine1111
                        Now I know why 308 cal rounds are at least $1.00 each if not more.

                        The high cost of factory rounds mainly come from the cost of the brass. The largest savings in reloading comes from the re use of the brass. Factory ammo doesnt have to go through all of the steps that reloaded ammo does.

                        Brandon M.

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          supersonic
                          Calguns Addict
                          • May 2007
                          • 5885

                          Originally posted by CSACANNONEER
                          I couldn't have said it better! This is exactly what I do.
                          Great minds think alike!!!!!!! (although I'm sure you could have said it better!)

                          Oh, and Supersonic, I DID have to wait for the Brown Truck so that I could un-stick my .223 die.
                          I FEEL your pain, man............'Ah feeeeuul eeet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

                          *FACTORY-CERTIFIED ARMORER AT YOUR SERVICE IN SACRAMENTO, ALSO AR-15 WORK/ YUGO M59/66 SKS NIGHT SIGHTS REPLACEMENT - 916-516-7380*

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            ivanimal
                            Janitors assistant
                            CGN Contributor - Lifetime
                            • Sep 2002
                            • 14365

                            Originally posted by f4tweet
                            I use the RCBS lube pad and goop. It works like Buttah.
                            I have been doing this since the 80's I tried the spray stuff but I hate re tumbling, I just resize reset the primer and load for all non hunting rounds. If I have to trim a case the process changes to resize trim and then tumble. It keeps me honest. Trimming cases is probably the most important part of reloading prep. The powder is the most important individual part of reloading itself.
                            "I would kill for a Nobel peace prize." Steven Wright"
                            Board Member CGSSA Donate now!
                            NRA lifetime member

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              One Shot, One Dropped
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2008
                              • 1134

                              I'm about to fire the whole reloading deal up. It's kind of exciting! We'll see how it turns out though...
                              Originally posted by ViPER395
                              Give me a a case of .223 and immunity and i'll solve the gang problem from that News10 weather tower crap.
                              -talking about the Sacramento "gang tax" being proposed

                              Comment

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