what difference in reloading AR .223 and Bolt .308?

[NYY]

I have reloaded hundreds of flawless rounds of .223 for my AR. My question is, what do I do differently to reload .308 for my Rem700? Do I NEED to use a Neck sizing die? Thanks

[joelogic]

The process is the same. All different reloading machine parts though.

Need? No.

[BigBronco]

Well that all depends Pilgrim. You shooting for groups or for meat? Both case life and accuracy will improve if you neck size only. If shooting for groups then you will want to measure your chamber with a chamber gauge and a modified case. Preferably with a modified case from a case fired in your 700. But be aware neck sized brass will not always chamber properly in another rifle.

[ExtremeX]

It can be the same if you want it to be the same… or you can change it up, just depends on your goals/requirements.

My 308 is a target rig… I neck size using a collet die for as long as I can, then use a body die and push the shoulders back no more than .001 to maintain the brass… My AR I just use a FL sizer and more generous at .0025 - .003 and it’s sized the same every time.

I run about .002 neck tension on my autoloaders... and .001 on my bolt actions. Just my preference...

[thenodnarb]

May I ask, how do you set the shoulder back only slightly? Is it just a matter of not screwing the die all the way down? If I were to attempt this I would probably put the cartridge in the die, run it all the way up in the press, then screw the FL sizing die down until it contacts the case(presumably on the shoulder, then back the case down, add a 1/4 turn to the die and tighten it. Is that the right procedure?

[ExtremeX]

May I ask, how do you set the shoulder back only slightly? Is it just a matter of not screwing the die all the way down? If I were to attempt this I would probably put the cartridge in the die, run it all the way up in the press, then screw the FL sizing die down until it contacts the case(presumably on the shoulder, then back the case down, add a 1/4 turn to the die and tighten it. Is that the right procedure?

Measure it… using something like a headspace comparator kit or the RCBS precision mic.

For more accurate readings I typically get a few neck sized cases fire formed 2-3 times and results are more accurate and repeatable than a case with a single firing.

As far as the die is concerned… it does have to do with adjustment and once I set a sizing die for my chamber with a lock ring I leave it, and dedicate it to that rifle for convenience so I don’t have to keep repeating this process. I am also sure to always use the same shell holder when sizing as it may affect the results.

Following the manufactures instructions for the die doesn’t always yield the CORRECT results for your chamber, but it will most likely yield cases that will chamber and work. Just because it fits, doesn’t mean it was sized correctly or the optimum amount for your rifle.

I have seen chambers on the tight side to the loose side… If I follow the manufactures directions on oversized chambers you could be oversizing by a lot… which leads to bad case life, possible accuracy issues, and worst case scenario is case head separation since the brass was overworked.

Redding competition shell holders also give some level of flexibility when it comes to sharing the same die across multiple chambers and promotes more consistent sizing for oversized chambers allowing the press to cam over when a die is backed out too much with a standard shell holder.

[FLIGHT762]

May I ask, how do you set the shoulder back only slightly? Is it just a matter of not screwing the die all the way down? If I were to attempt this I would probably put the cartridge in the die, run it all the way up in the press, then screw the FL sizing die down until it contacts the case(presumably on the shoulder, then back the case down, add a 1/4 turn to the die and tighten it. Is that the right procedure?

Here's a couple of videos describing the process.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n_l-bYxbg0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-UrMTyJ1_E

These two videos demonstrate the use of the Hornady or the Sinclair bump gauges that connect to a caliper to read the length of shoulder bump.

There are shoulder bump gauges made by a number of manufacturers, RCBS (precision mic) Hornady, Sinclair, Innovative Technologies(Larry Willis), Forster(new product this year), Redding, etc.

I happen to use the Hornady and the Sinclair gauge sets since I reload for about 15+ Rifles and about 10 calibers. The Hornady gauge set will measure almost any cartridge, so for me, it's a good choice. I like the kind of gauge that will let you read the numbers off of a dial or digital read out, it's more precise than using a drop in gauge like the Wilson or the Dillon gauges. Some reloaders like the RCBS Precision Mic it is a good tool, but at $50.00 per caliber, If you're reloading for more than one caliber, the Hornady gauge set runs about $40.00 and is good to gauge nearly every cartridge / caliber.

You measure 5 or so fired cases from your rifle. You deprime the cases to get a more precise measurement since spent primers can raise up above the case head, giving a false reading. You can then adjust your die to bump the shoulders back as far or as little as you want using the gauge. It is simple and fast. Screwing in a die about 1/8th of a turn will equal about
.009". Sometimes you will only move the die in a couple of millimeters to get the precise setting. In the Videos, they recommend .001"-.002" for bolt guns and .003"-.005" for autoloaders or ammo for hunting / field use.

This will help extend the life of your brass.

[ExtremeX]

Here is another good video on the subject...

[ExtremeX]

In the Videos, they recommend .001"-.002" for bolt guns and .003"-.005" for autoloaders or ammo for hunting / field use.

This will help extend the life of your brass.

Those numbers are just to help you get started with a reference point... but after working with my setup for a bit I found .005" for something like an AR excessive... Some autoloaders may benefit from more sizing, but its not always needed.

I get very reliable feeding and extraction with .0025 to .003 as my general rule of thumb... My die is currently set it around .0015 to .002 for my target AR and still very reliable.

For a bolt action, zero headspace to .001 is all you need for a target rifle.

Excellent brass life and accuracy.

[NYY]

ok i see. well thank you guys! i just wanted to check. always love being super safe. appreciate the input! Cheers