Using Progressive Press Kits for 223 QUESTION

[NYY]

Quick question. This regards ALL progressive presses, for example the Lee pro 1000.... So I reload .223 using a Lee single stage press. I collect my brass from the range and take it home. My whole operation is first clean the brass and then my next step I resize/de prime. Then I trim my cases down to length (1.751 in.) and chamfer/de-burr the case neck opening. After that I prime them. Then I charge them and seat a bullet. So, my question for using a progressive press is, when do i trim, chamfer, and de-burr my brass? When i watch youtube videos of people using a progressive press, they insert a spent piece if brass with the spent primer inside as well and it gets de primed/resized. but isnt the neck size too long before it rotates and gets primed/powdered/and seated in the press? My step of trimming down to length and cleaning the case opening seems non existent, which is an important part. My ultimate wonder here is should I trim my cases down to length before I do ANYTHING with the press? that seems like the only way my plan will work. I hope I haven't lost anyone here

[Bastard]

seems like you are trimming too much.

IMO and I am pretty sure that most will agree, you don't need to trim every time... of you don't trim there is no need to chamfer/de-burr

[jj805]

I do the case prep on a single stage, then I prime, charge and seat on a progressive. Some people will run the brass through a progressive twice. Once with the press set up to deprime/size, and then trim with the Dillon trimmer. They will then tumble to clean the lube off of the cases. Then they run it through the press to prime, charge and seat.

[BenHa]

I do the case prep on a single stage, then I prime, charge and seat on a progressive. Some people will run the brass through a progressive twice. Once with the press set up to deprime/size, and then trim with the Dillon trimmer. They will then tumble to clean the lube off of the cases. Then they run it through the press to prime, charge and seat.

This pretty much sums up what I do.

[chango17]

All you need is an initial trim to minimum case trim length and it is good for a couple reloads until it gets to max case length, which is usually 0.01" longer than the minimum. Unless you are loading match ammo you don't need to before every reload, but you probably wouldn't be using a progressive either.

[NYY]

alright I see. Glad you guys helped figure it all out. much appreciated!

[johnny1290]

Aha! Great question!

They may have already trimmed that batch of brass previously so they know it isn't likely to need trimming, or it's once used brass, or they just don't care. Some guys have different trimming habits than me.

I started using an RCBS lubrication die in a progressive, as I can't stand lubing cases on a pad or whatever.

I run them through the progressive lube station one and decap/resize station 2.

Then I do a length check, and cull the ones that need trimming. The others I just throw in the tumbler. I work in batches, in separate bags, so I have a check list for 223 that I keep in each bag so I know where I'm at in the process. If you google around you can find them.

Whenever I think I can't possibly forget, that's when I forget, so I consider it vital.

So I do a batch of trimming, then I chamfer them and deburr. Then tumble.

Then, since I didn't like priming on the pro 1000, I would prime with a hand primer.

Then back to the progressive to charge and seat the bullet.

If it sounds laborious, well, that's because it kinda is and why folks pay to have their brass processed.

Some guys don't think you need to chamfer, that tumbling will do it if you let it run x number of hours. Could be, I don't know.

My first time, I used a ton of lube and thought I didn't need to tumble brass clean. Wrong! I got hang fires and a few duds.

[Justintoxicated]

I decap, then tumble, then size. Brass that does not survive the resize, gets discarded. Then I trim, chamber, deburr, swage, etc. Then I tuble again to get all the lube and shavings out of the brass.

Finally I load them on a progressive which allows me to: seat primer, drop powder, seat bullet, and kiss the case with a slight taper crimp die all in one pull.

[NYY]

so i conclude there isn't "one" answer to my original question. every one has their own special way. which i do too. i was just curious what you guys do so i can copy the idea maybe

[mike.h]

Hornady's 8th edition list the trim length for the .223 at 1.750".

[6mmintl]

Trimming cycle depends on the rifle and the loads your shooting.

Gas guns need trimming every 2-3 firings, sizing every firing.

Case prep.
I usually clean/tumble brass first in bulk (500-1000), then size deprime, then chamfer internal flash hole (only needed once), trim if needed, chamfer inside/outside neck, tumble to clean and remove any media in flash hole.

Bolt guns typically need only "Neck sizing" for about 4-8 firings (depending on load) then trim and full length.

You can buy a separate/dedicated neck sizing die with interchangeable "Donut" bushings that you can use on specific mfg. cases (they ea. vary in neck thicknesses) or you can cheat with std. dies by screwing die set .050-.070" off of shell holder (depends on neck length of specific cartridge) creating a step in cartridge neck which self centers neck/bullet in chamber enhancing accuracy.

Be sure to segregate you brass by mfg. and year if so stamped, each lot will vary a little, download military cases 5-10% due to smaller internal volume (creating higher pressures), commercial cases hold more powder and that is what most powder manufacturers reloading data is developed from.

Forgot to add you can seat your bullets out to gain more accuracy for single loading only if needed and it doesn't matter what bullet you use, ball and match bullets all gain better accuracy.

Stoney point cartridge overall length gages are I believe sold by midway/brownells and various other distributors. Or you can go the easy/early way by sizing a case, slitting a case neck down to shoulder with a Dremel slitting saw/abrasive wheel, file off any burrs and lightly squeeze case neck and insert bullet of your choice seated way out.

Then carefully insert into chamber with bolt or by hand and measure 5-6 times to get an average OAL, seat your loaded rounds .010" less and see how they do at distance SINGLE LOADED.

[popeye4]

This is why I don't relaod .223 or .308 on my Dillon XL650. I spend most of my time doing brass prep (I load for a gas gun, so case prep matters), so all I'd use the Dillon for is to charge the case and seat the bullet. I can do that just as fast with a Harrell's powder measure and a single stage press. I use the Dillon for pistol rounds, that's where a progressive press shines.

[RacerX7]

I have a Dillon 650. I have 2 tool heads. First tool head is to decap, size and trim with an RT1200. Second tool head is for priming, charging seating and crimp. After I run my brass thru the first tool head, I do tumble the brass again to clean off the lube and swage if needed.