Reloading 7.62x54r

[kygen]

I've been wondering, how easy would it be to take out the magnetic projectile of a x54r and replace it with a nonmagnetic projectile? I just bought a crate of x54r, and I'd rather not risk a fine on BLM land for using steel core ammo; that, and I'd like to take my type 53 up to Burro canyon.

If this is possible, what would be needed, and what caliber projectile would I need to buy?

Thanks in advance

[kygen]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXPpf6ypYZ4

just found this, should have consulted youtube before hand. But any advice will be appreciated

[BruinGuy]

All of the Eastern Bloc surplus I have (Russian, Bulgarian, and Romanian) has a .311 bullet. The chamber on most Mosins works best with that (Finns being a common exception). Measure the bullet and check your bore to be sure.

Pulling bullets from surplus seems likely to be a challenge. Some surplus has a sealant at the neck which could pose a challenge for kinetic pulling. If you have a collet puller that would help. Although surplus cases are usually steel, I don't imagine it would be difficult to seat but a little crimp from something like the Lee factory crimp die might help.

I would definitely weigh and measure a pulled bullet and try to get as close to its weight as possible. You can weigh the charge but who knows what the powder is? Therefore I wouldn't mess about with bullet weights, and would be cautious with seating depth too.

Personally, I am saving my surplus for places where I can shoot it, and reloading brass. Buy 100-200 rounds of PPU and that brass will be good for many many loads. It's not bad at around $14/20.

[knucklehead0202]

most of the surplus "light ball" runs around a 147-148gr bullet so 150 is about right. .311, like bruin guy said, will likely net you good results, although if you have the means to slug your bore that'd be the best thing, since these things can run from .308 to .316 or so. either way, seems best to just buy some reloadable ammo, shoot it and reload it, save your surplus for a rainy day, that stuff lasts forever anyhow.

[Bongos]

don't know how long your dies are going to last as it will be steel on steel.. PVRI brass is avail but at +$0.70 a pc don't know if you want to go that route

[Eljay]

I'd just reload fresh before going to that kind of trouble. That would give you a known powder and a noncorrosive primer and less labor (since you wouldn't have to break down the old round).

[Agustav]

I've done exactly what you want to do using a collet die. Removing the bullet is not that difficult. Re-seat a new bullet of the same weight and you are done.

I found that using boat-tail bullets (like PRVI 150 gr. FMJ-BT) will make seating a lot easier.

In the end, I end up with a bunch of magnetic bullets. Since I am the kind of people that can't let things go to waste. I used them for reduced power load in brass case using Trail Boss.

I wouldn't do it again!

[CK_32]

Just sounds more than its worth IMO.


Just don't buy the bi metal or save your bi metal and buy a few boxes of non magnetic stuff.

[Bumslie]

It could be done. I would just buy a collet puller and some cheap lee dies. I think it would be totally worth it.

Slug your bore to be sure, but I'm sure buying 150gr .311 bullets would be fine.

Here's a Canadian that did it with x39.

[BruinGuy]

You might want to calculate costs to figure out if it's worth it. Using some average numbers and guesses, I came up with the following:

Surplus ammo: $110/440 = .25 each x 400 = $100
Bullets: $25/100 = .25 each x 400 = $100
400 rounds for $200 = .50 each

PPU: $15/20 x 5 = $75
Bullets: $25/100 = .25 each x 300 = $75
Primers x 300 (@$40/1000) = $12
Powder x 300 @approx 40gr per (7k grains per pound)@ 1lb for $25= approx $43
Total for 400 rounds (3 reloads)= $205 = .5125 each

What I would consider is that replacing bullets in the surplus is a consistent cost, while loading the brass cases will decrease slightly the more loads you make. So, add another 300 rounds with the brass case and it would cost $113 more, for a total of $318. Reloading surplus would cost you another $150 in cartridges and bullets, for a total of $350 for 700 rounds.

Of course, that can go up or down depending on how much you pay for each component. I erred on the high side for powder and primers (bullets are a push since they'll be the same). Of course, you may be able to sell the pulled bullets for a small recovery, and I don't know what you paid for your milsurp. It's gone up a lot lately, but maybe you picked it up when it was cheaper.

EDIT: (Yes, I am kind of bored at work today, before you ask)

[Bumslie]

It's not always about money however. Price break is just a secondary benefit of reloading. It's about fun and projects. Like building a .50 beuwolf AK-47.

The .311 projectiles can be used if he has a .303 brittish as well.

[A and O]

Or in the Ak-47 as well.

I did a project about a year back. Wanted the Steel Core for the ammo.

Buy the Hornady Collet puller, the RCBS will put marks on all the bullets.

I used a RCBS 50BMG press to pull them. The sealant required the extra power to do this project.

I've still got about 4,000 live primed steel cases if you are interested, maybe more. We can work something out

PM for a few other tips as well, Don't want to hog the thread.....

[Abenaki]

Here is a tip.

If you are having a hard time pulling a bullet, because a sealant has being used.
Take a seating die and adjust it just enough to push the bullet in....just a hair.
This will help with breaking the seal, and making it easier to pull.

Take care
Abenaki

[kygen]

All of the Eastern Bloc surplus I have (Russian, Bulgarian, and Romanian) has a .311 bullet. The chamber on most Mosins works best with that (Finns being a common exception). Measure the bullet and check your bore to be sure.

Pulling bullets from surplus seems likely to be a challenge. Some surplus has a sealant at the neck which could pose a challenge for kinetic pulling. If you have a collet puller that would help. Although surplus cases are usually steel, I don't imagine it would be difficult to seat but a little crimp from something like the Lee factory crimp die might help.

I would definitely weigh and measure a pulled bullet and try to get as close to its weight as possible. You can weigh the charge but who knows what the powder is? Therefore I wouldn't mess about with bullet weights, and would be cautious with seating depth too.

Personally, I am saving my surplus for places where I can shoot it, and reloading brass. Buy 100-200 rounds of PPU and that brass will be good for many many loads. It's not bad at around $14/20.

I was going to save my surplus also, for when I can use it at places that allow, but that would only be at Burro canyon during the wet season. I wouldn't want to risk a fine on BLM land

[kygen]

thanks for all the info guys. I am new to reloading, so I don't have any equipment. I was figuring on getting my foot in door with this little venture. If I pull the bullet from the steel case, it would still be safe to use the old powder correct? assuming that I use the same grain bullet? and should I get a die, to resize the casing just in case something goes awry?


once I get the ammo, ill check if there is a sealant around the bullet, that will gauge weather I go the kinetic route or not.