Reloading for M1 Carbine

[Enfield47]

Just picked up my M1 carbine over the weekend. I was able to get 200 rounds of Remington ammo for it and will reload for it once I get the correct supplies. I have a few questions on reloading for it so I thought it best to consult the experts.

Bullets - plated, lead, or FMJ? I have been looking at the available options and mostly see plated or lead at reasonable prices. I'm concerned about using these bullets only because they recommend not exceeding 1,900 fps. Will they come apart if they exceed that speed?

Powder - looking for H110 or 296 but I did see some reclaimed powder from pulled M1 rounds. The price is pretty good and it's loaded just like H110 (13.5 grains w/110 gr bullet). Are there any concerns for a newbie like myself using reclaimed powder? Also, will it generally have a long shelf life like new manufactured powders do?

Primers - I have CCI #41 srp. Are they okay to use or do I need a softer primer?

For brass I think I'm good. I'll have my 200 pieces, some that Stilly is sending me, and some that I found online.

I'm going to borrow a die set once I get all my components together. Not sure if it is a steel or carbide die set but I plan on lubing the cases anyway as recommended here.

[jonzer77]

I have wondered about using lead as well but from the small research I did, the problem is the lead clogging up the gas system. Normally you can just clean that out but I read that you don't want to take it apart to often......not sure how true that is but that was the general info I found.

I have only used 296 and it works well but I am curious about the pulldown powder. Where did you find that?

Do you reload for an AR? If so then I would suggest keeping the #41 for that since they are more expensive and help prevent a slamfire which isn't a problem in the M1 Carbine.

I bought a set of carbide dies and made the mistake of not using enough lube and got the case stuck so I would go with whatever set you could find.

Finally, where are the pics? lol

[Divernhunter]

The pulldown powder is fine and will last many years if stored correctly.
I just use mag primers with the H-110 I load with.
I use the RCBS Carbide dies and no lube. I have never stuck a case but a touch of lube cannot hurt.

[kurac]

For plinking a general range use I get these, they are probably cheaper than plated.

http://polygunbag.com/.30CarbineTipsLargerView.html

[ap1040]

See my comments in red below

Just picked up my M1 carbine over the weekend. I was able to get 200 rounds of Remington ammo for it and will reload for it once I get the correct supplies. I have a few questions on reloading for it so I thought it best to consult the experts.
Congrats on the new toy, they are a lot of fun to shoot.

Bullets - plated, lead, or FMJ? I have been looking at the available options and mostly see plated or lead at reasonable prices. I'm concerned about using these bullets only because they recommend not exceeding 1,900 fps. Will they come apart if they exceed that speed?
I use plated, have used FMJ no issues. If the bullets go too fast can strip the plating off, I have not had that problem but then again I don't load max powder in my reloads.

Powder - looking for H110 or 296 but I did see some reclaimed powder from pulled M1 rounds. The price is pretty good and it's loaded just like H110 (13.5 grains w/110 gr bullet). Are there any concerns for a newbie like myself using reclaimed powder? Also, will it generally have a long shelf life like new manufactured powders do?
I've used Unique didn't like the results and H110. I like H110, and have had good results with it. I have not used reclaimed powder and not sure I would want to since I cannot be sure something else didn't get mixed in.

Primers - I have CCI #41 srp. Are they okay to use or do I need a softer primer?
CCI should be fine. I have mainly used Winchester because got a good deal on them but have the CCI in reserve. Only one I would be hesitant to use is Federal because they can be too soft from what I've read (I use a Lee Turret press and Lee says to NOT use Federal primers)

For brass I think I'm good. I'll have my 200 pieces, some that Stilly is sending me, and some that I found online.
Just remember every time at the range to look for brass. I did buy 800 pieces and since then picked up at least another 300 at ranges

I'm going to borrow a die set once I get all my components together. Not sure if it is a steel or carbide die set but I plan on lubing the cases anyway as recommended here.
I would recommend carbide, even using lube will make reloading easier with carbide than steel

[Capt.Dunsel]

I prefer hard cast or gas checked 115 gr with 4227 powder.

Never had a problem with the gas port or leading using hard cast w/o gas checks and 4227.

[jonzer77]

I prefer hard cast or gas checked 115 gr with 4227 powder.

Never had a problem with the gas port or leading using hard cast w/o gas checks and 4227.

That is good to know. Is there a certain velocity to try to keep it at to work the action without leading? Also, do you cast your own or do you buy them?

[Capt.Dunsel]

That is good to know. Is there a certain velocity to try to keep it at to work the action without leading? Also, do you cast your own or do you buy them?

If I remember correctly , but that's hard at my age , 4227 was the choice for the 30 carbine because it fills the case , goes 1900 fps with the cast.

I used to purchase cast for it , but have since started casting my own after finding they worked with or without gas checks. I am frugal so learned to cast once they were found to work well.

wheel weights , water quenched to harden them a little more.

[Enfield47]

I have only used 296 and it works well but I am curious about the pulldown powder. Where did you find that?

Finally, where are the pics? lol

Here is where I saw the reclaimed powder http://www.gibrass.com/gunpowder.html. I still need to take some pics. The camera battery died and I had to recharge it, so now I just need to find a spot with good lighting so the flash won't wipe everything out.

For plinking a general range use I get these, they are probably cheaper than plated.

http://polygunbag.com/.30CarbineTipsLargerView.html

I called them and found out they attract a magnet so I can't use them at the ranges I go to. They are a great deal and a good price too - wish I could use them. I did order some 30 carbine brass from them. They were very nice to deal with and I already received my shipping confirmation.

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I went online to purchase the reclaimed powder today and they are sold out. I knew it was a risk to wait but I felt better about asking here first to see if it would be good idea to buy it or not. Ill know for next time and be ready to purchase as soon as it appears. Hopefully they will get some more in or that I will be able to find some H110 or 296 locally. I think I will also try to find some Winchester SRP locally and save my CCI primers for my ARs.

[tujungatoes]

Gotta love the .30 carbine. I use xtreme plated bullets and 12.5 grains of 2400. For primers I prefer win SRP's but have used cci 400's(41's will be fine). The above load shoots great and throws the brass at 5 o'clock right back over my shoulder. No need to hunt all over for it.

[CGT80]

I am just doing research to start loading 30 carbine as well. I load many other rounds and cast bullets. I don't know if I want to order bear creek moly bullets or cast my own. I am too cheap to use plated or jacketed, and I think I have a few jacketed to start with, that my grandfather gave me. The bear creek bullets are $60 per thousand from a shooting buddy. Jacketed can easily be double that amount. Casting will be slower and I will have to watch for leading, but it is rewarding and can be fun, not to mention it might make me savor that ammo a bit more.

I have some 296, unique, and 2400 on hand. I have other powders, but I don't think they really apply to 30 carbine.

I have a small amount of brass and it seems everyone is sold out on it right now, and mags are the same story-I have one good mag and need more.

Even though I have other rifles that will fill the plinking role of the M1 Carbine, I still have the desire to load at least a small quantity of ammo for it. It is the lightest rifle I have shot, next to my 10/22, but it packs more punch, oh..........and did I mention the history aspect? What is not to like?

I have looked at a few molds for casting my own. Lee would be the cheapest, but which profile and weight? Go with a cheap aluminum gas check or go the faster and cheaper route with plain base or leave the gas check off? Lyman or RCBS is expensive and usually only 2 cavity as well. A custom mold is great, especially in 4 cavity (easier to swallow the 90-150 dollar price tag), but I would have to find one in stock or wait on a group buy.

I might consider reclaimed powder if I shoot the M1 very much. I would like to find some 844 to use in 5.56, but I have 335 and 4895 for now, and I have small amounts of the others mentioned to try in the 30 carbine. I use the wolf/tula SRP and 223 primers in 5.56 and I just got more CCI 41's. 335 and 296/h110 call for magnum primers in some cases. Some people say it is not necessary for 335 in 5.56 though. I do use Large Rifle Magnum primers when I run 296 in my revolver. Some have said I don't need it, but I don't want to find out if 45.0 grains of 296 will really detonate and I don't want a hang fire. It would be a shame to have either issue in the rifle too.

I will either have to use my sloooowwwww lyman electric trimmer to trim the brass, or I will have to get a custom made 30 carbine cutter from CTS. Definitely the latter if I load many of them.

[kurac]

Here is where I saw the reclaimed powder http://www.gibrass.com/gunpowder.html.


I called them and found out they attract a magnet so I can't use them at the ranges I go to. They are a great deal and a good price too - wish I could use them. I did order some 30 carbine brass from them. They were very nice to deal with and I already received my shipping confirmation.
.

The Lake City brass is probably the best stuff you can get short of Norma or Lapua. My advise would be to buy all you can afford. Before the craziness, Midway would sometimes have Hornady 110gr FMJ's (for the carbine) on sale, I forget what I paid last time but it was $60 or $70 for 500 and they were non-magnetic. You will find some non magnetic mixed in with the pull down but 99% of it will attract a magnet.

[DannyInSoCal]

Anyone ever work up lighter loads for a 7" barrel...?

I've got an AMT 1911 sidearm clone chambered in .30 Carbine -

And the fireballs and smoke sure is fun but a waste....

[Capt.Dunsel]

Anyone ever work up lighter loads for a 7" barrel...?

I've got an AMT 1911 sidearm clone chambered in .30 Carbine -

And the fireballs and smoke sure is fun but a waste....

Try here ? http://stevespages.com/308p_1.html

[Enfield47]

I ordered some 296 powder and 2,000 Tula SRP from Powder Valley today. The brass should arrive next week, now it's a matter of finding the bullets. I found some plated 110gr bullets - $110 shipped for 1,000. That's the best price I've found so far since most 30 carbine bullets seem to be OOS and unavailable from the manufacturer. Hopefully once the madness settles down they will start making them again.

Has anyone used the spitzer type bullets with success in the M1 carbine? All the stock ammo I've seen is round nose.