9mm First Run Check

[smrtprts]

Hello I am just getting into reloading and would like advice on my first batch of 9mm reloads. I am using a Lee Turret Press with the Deluxe Carbide Dies (minus crimp). I loaded 200 rounds using lead bullets, and 200 rounds using Xtreme plated bullets and did not get the accuracy I was hoping for (12" groupings at 15 yards, compared to 4" using factory ammo). I had 3 other shooters run 3 magazines each of the two loads and the results were similar down the board. This has lead me to wonder if I am doing something wrong. The gun was a M&P, and multiple magazines were also put through a Glock 17 which yielded the same results. Of the 400 rounds, there were 2 hangfires, 2 squibs, no FTF, double feeds, or FTE.



Wideners 122 grn Lead Wad Cutters
4.0 grn Titegroup
Once fired brass
Sellier & Bellet SPP
OAL .95"
*Experiencing key-holing on 50%+*


Extreme Bullets 115 grn Copper Plated
4.4 grn Titegroup
Once fired brass
Sellier & Bellet SPP
OAL 1.125"

Any advice? Thanks.

[XDRoX]

Two hang fires, and two squibs?
Have you considered taking up a different hobby? Golf maybe?

[Ferrum]

Did you load these all the same or do any load development?

[gemoose23]

I'd start looking at your process for the hang fires and squibs, accuracy is nothing if you are breaking stuff (you or gear).

I would also not loan ammo to others to use in their guns as you are learning the reloading process.

Lead Bullets:
Can you recover any of the keyholing bullets? Is the lead bullet the correct size for your gun? (slug bore to confirm). Are you over crimping? Also your OAL for the lead "feels" short. I'd try longer OAL for consistency and magazine reliability

Xtreme Bullets:
Cleaner Brass Check Crimp. I use the same OAL, with Xtreme bullets for my M&P and I shoot for A zone hits so I never measure, shoots fine. I make powder puff rounds with Clays powder though.

[Full Clip]

Regarding the squibs/hangfires, could primer pocket holes clogged with cleaning media be the culprit?

[HighLander51]

Regarding the squibs/hangfires, could primer pocket holes clogged with cleaning media be the culprit?

No, the decapping pin punches all that out along with the primer.

OAL .95"
*Experiencing key-holing on 50%+*

Your plated loads sound ok, but .95" is way too short. Start it out at 1.170" and see how it runs. Squibs are caused by no powder.

[HighLander51]

Hello I am just getting into reloading and would like advice on my first batch of 9mm reloads. I am using a Lee Turret Press with the Deluxe Carbide Dies (minus crimp)

Any advice? Thanks.

What do you mean by (minus crimp)? The round has to be crimped to headspace properly. Semi auto rounds headspace on the mouth.

[smrtprts]

Did you load these all the same or do any load development?

All at the same time. No development.

I'd start looking at your process for the hang fires and squibs, accuracy is nothing if you are breaking stuff (you or gear).

I would also not loan ammo to others to use in their guns as you are learning the reloading process.

Lead Bullets:
Can you recover any of the keyholing bullets? Is the lead bullet the correct size for your gun? (slug bore to confirm). Are you over crimping? Also your OAL for the lead "feels" short. I'd try longer OAL for consistency and magazine reliability

Xtreme Bullets:
Cleaner Brass Check Crimp. I use the same OAL, with Xtreme bullets for my M&P and I shoot for A zone hits so I never measure, shoots fine. I make powder puff rounds with Clays powder though.

I bought all of the brass from a guy on the ar15 forum and admittedly some of it is quite dirty. I did not recover any of the bullets and they are the correct size for my bore.

No, the decapping pin punches all that out along with the primer.

OAL .95"
*Experiencing key-holing on 50%+*

Your plated loads sound ok, but .95" is way too short. Start it out at 1.170" and see how it runs. Squibs are caused by no powder.

When I went any longer they would not head space correctly. This is the longest I can get them to head space for some reason.

[smrtprts]

What do you mean by (minus crimp)? The round has to be crimped to headspace properly. Semi auto rounds headspace on the mouth.

I mean I am not using the 4th die, the "Carbide Factory Crimp Die". This is the set:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/885350/lee-deluxe-carbide-4-die-set-9mm-luger

[John Browning]

Your problems are great enough that you should stop what you're doing and pick up a few reloading manuals and read them again. Hangfires and squibs are signs you have no clue what you're doing. Your OAL is way beneath minimum and you're very lucky you didn't blow yourself up. When you seat a bullet too short, you increase pressure dramatically since there is less space for the gas to expand. In short, stop reloading until you read and understand the process. You have a lot more reading to do. You will destroy your gun and possibly hurt yourself if you keep doing what you're doing.

You should also go to a single stage press. Your issues are ones of severe safety concern first, and the accuracy issue is just a distant secondary concern. You need to read books (NOT THE INTERNET) on the subject before you go near a press again. You are incredibly lucky you didn't destroy your gun and severely hurt someone.

[gemoose23]

All at the same time. No development.

I bought all of the brass from a guy on the ar15 forum and admittedly some of it is quite dirty. I did not recover any of the bullets and they are the correct size for my bore.

When I went any longer they would not head space correctly. This is the longest I can get them to head space for some reason.

I'd double check your lead bullets dia, if you can have an OAL of 1.125 with Xtreme Bullets, but need to push the bullet soo far into the case you are either not crimping enough or bullets are incorrect for 9mm luger.

Correct bore size for lead bullets is typically +.001/.002, which goes back to slugging your barrel for diameter.

[John Browning]

All at the same time. No development.

When I went any longer they would not head space correctly. This is the longest I can get them to head space for some reason.

You HAVE to develop loads.

You HAVE to crimp straight-walled pistol brass to remove the bell at the case mouth. If you crimped them, no doubt they will allow you to have the correct OAL.

This stuff isn't optional. The Speer Reloading manual has a great section at the beginning on the basics of reloading. It comes free with the RCBS Rockchucker Kit, which I'd also suggest. A turret press has too many things going on at once for the beginning reloader, and you can always sell the Rockchucker for pretty much what you paid for it once you learn how to do it. A single-stage will be much easier to use and in the long run make you a much safer and more competent reloader.

[C3nt3rMa55]

So you loaded 400 rounds total without working up a load? Normally you start at min charge and work up in increments loading 5-10 for each charge weight, then settle on what's most accurate for you. None of us would load 400 rounds not knowing how that particular load shot. You need to crimp or taper crimp just enough to remove the bell in the case mouth, crimp too much and you'll see the bullet start to deform. Practice making a dummy round and once you have the oal and crimp set right you can use that dummy round to get yourself close the next time you load a batch. Also measure the mouth before belling and you should be just over that when properly crimped.

[HighLander51]

You also need to clean your brass. It should look like this before loading. And you need to get a case gage.



This load is 115 Montana Gold JHP over 4.4 grains of TiteGroup at 1.165" OAL.

[milw50717]

+1 on the STOP IMMEDIATELY, do some research and start again.