Best .308 Dies for M1A

[f4tweet]

I am going to start with .308. What are the best dies for a M1A? Some say RCBS, Some say X-dies, some say Redding. I are confoosed. Thanks for the help.

[Cypriss32]

Small Base dies......

[Sunwolf]

Dillon carbide

[ocabj]

You'll be fine with a Redding 2-Die set with a FL sizer and seating die. Maybe even get a 3-die set with a neck sizer for the future if you plan on loading for a bolt gun.

Personally, if I were going to get dies strictly for the M14 in .308, I would get a Redding S-Type bushing FL sizing die (with the respective bushing size for the brass) and a Forster Micrometer seater.

[30Cal]

Something that does FL sizing. My recommendation, based on 3 sets of dies, two M1a's (one USGI and two match barrels) and 10,000+ rds would be an FL X-Die plus a Stoney Point case comparator.

If you ever use an FL or SB die, you need to have a case gage. The chances of needing an SB die are low and if you don't need it, you're just overworking your spendy brass. The Dillon carbide die is slick and makes sizing easy, but you have to trim. Trimming sucks, especially if you're trying to keep a gasgun fed. Thus the X-die.

Make sure you get a case gage. You literally don't know what you're doing without one. Best case, want your sized brass to be 0.002-0.004" (on average) shorter at the shoulder. Next best would be a gage that at least tells you if the shoulder is within the SAAMI spec. The die manufacturers instructions for setting an FL die ("...screw down till it touches the shellholder then back off...") are a half step better than useless.

[bohoki]

Something that does FL sizing. My recommendation, based on 3 sets of dies, two M1a's (one USGI and two match barrels) and 10,000+ rds would be an FL X-Die plus a Stoney Point case comparator.

If you ever use an FL or SB die, you need to have a case gage. The chances of needing an SB die are low and if you don't need it, you're just overworking your spendy brass. The Dillon carbide die is slick and makes sizing easy, but you have to trim. Trimming sucks, especially if you're trying to keep a gasgun fed. Thus the X-die.

Make sure you get a case gage. You literally don't know what you're doing without one. Best case, want your sized brass to be 0.002-0.004" (on average) shorter at the shoulder. Next best would be a gage that at least tells you if the shoulder is within the SAAMI spec. The die manufacturers instructions for setting an FL die ("...screw down till it touches the shellholder then back off...") are a half step better than useless.

if you have a case gage you can get along just fine with the lee rgb dies

[Kiba]

For my M1A's (and AR's) I use a Redding FL die with carbide button & TiN neck bushing sized for proper tension. I size the cases so the shoulder is .002" back from the chamber, and I use a Giraud trimmer.

I tried the X-die and did not like it... the Giraud makes super-quick work of trimming & chamfering. If I didn't own the Giraud I would be trying my hardest to make the X-die work, without a good power trimmer it does get tiring quickly trying to keep up with a gas gun especially if you shoot in volume.

I've never needed a small base die either, as said all it does it overwork your brass if your rifle doesn't need the SB die.

The headspace between my 2 M1A's is off by .001", I use Sinclair shims under my FL die to easily adjust the die to achieve the .002" set back on each rifle without having to resort to either buying a 2nd die or having to readjust the lock collar each time. I have 2 sets of brass, one for each rifle, to minimize the amount of working the cases see on each reload. I could size to be .002" back from the smallest chamber but that's not how I work.

[Jicko]

You'll be fine with a Redding 2-Die set with a FL sizer and seating die. Maybe even get a 3-die set with a neck sizer for the future if you plan on loading for a bolt gun.

Personally, if I were going to get dies strictly for the M14 in .308, I would get a Redding S-Type bushing FL sizing die (with the respective bushing size for the brass) and a Forster Micrometer seater.

Trust him.

"NRA Certified Instructor - Rifle and Metallic Cartridge Reloading"

[uscbigdawg]

Dillon Carbides are just flat out the best. They are small base dies and the carbide HELPS (doesn't eliminate the need) with lubing the cases. The only change I'd make is a Redding Competition Seating die (although I can't remember if they make in for 308...I'm sure they do).

Rich
yeah...I'm a NRA Instructor in Reloading too since it was free.

[30Cal]

Dillon Carbides are just flat out the best. They are small base dies and the carbide HELPS (doesn't eliminate the need) with lubing the cases. The only change I'd make is a Redding Competition Seating die (although I can't remember if they make in for 308...I'm sure they do).

Rich
yeah...I'm a NRA Instructor in Reloading too since it was free.

They may be close to SB, but they're not quite. My micrometer (and my most recent chamber) tells me so. They are nice, but I dunno about $90 nice. I think you'd be better off spending the money on the smokin'est case trimmer money can buy.

[ocabj]

I wouldn't get a small base die. Stick to a standard FL sizer.

The only time I ever use a small base die is when I have once fired .223 from an unknown firearm. I'll use the small base die to ensure sizing within spec. After that processed brass is fired in one of my guns, I use a non-SB sizer from then on.

[uscbigdawg]

Going into an autoloader, SB dies, are just cheap insurance. As for Dillon's carbide dies, I don't use them on my 223 or 308, but it's an option for someone that wants to spend the money. In my XL650, just spray the brass with dillon lube, shake the brass in a box and go for it.

SD's of < 7 and groups under .5 MOA are good enough proof for me they work and I'm knocking the ammo out as fast as I can, not bench loading by any means.

Rich