I need some input from you guys on load data because I'm having a little trouble comprehending recipes. My components include WSP primers, Accurate #5 (coming from PV someday), Berry's 180gr FPs, and a bunch of mixed brass. I've been on Accurate's website and have their data sheet. They don't show a recipe for Berry's 180gr FP, but do have one for 180gr HPs which suggests a starting load of 5.8gr with an OAL of 1.125". Is it okay to use the same data for my FPs? Basically what I'm asking is, does the bullet type/brand matter? I also have a recipe from my Lyman manual that calls for 5.5gr starting load with an OAL of 1.135" and it is for a 190gr Jacketed FP. Since it is for a heavier projectile, I assume I could start right around there for my 180gr bullets. I probably was going to start somewhere around the middle of these two starting loads and keep the OAL greater than or equal to 1.135". The max load for each recipe is 6.5gr, so to be safe, I probably won't load anything higher than 6.2gr or so until I am more experienced. This is going to be my first attempt at reloading. I am strictly using these as target loads. I would like for them to be light on the recoil, but with sufficient accuracy. Also, how can I identify excessive pressure? What are the common signs to look for in pistol cartridges (pictured examples would be awesome if someone could/would show me)? I understand that I need to watch for it, but I'm just not 100% positive of what I'm looking for. I am really excited to start reloading, but I understand that safety is the number one thing so I want to get as much input as possible from some of you really experienced reloaders. Thanks in advance for all of your input everyone.
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Getting ready for my first batch of 40S&W
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Getting ready for my first batch of 40S&W
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Plated data falls in between jacketed and lead. The data you have is for jacketed. Usually lead takes a little less powder. Most plated bullet companies use to say use lead data with their plated bullets just to be safe.
In reality I've found that new plated bullets, especially Berry's, act more like jacketed bullets than lead ones.
Also they use to say not to push plated bullets past 1200fps because the plating could separate. I don't think that's necessarily true any more. I've pushed Berry's past 1200 with good results.
So just to be safe start with some lead data and work your way up to your desired velocity. But I guarantee you could use starting data for a jacketed bullet and your gun wouldn't blow apart. Any starting load in any modern manual will probably be too light for you. The cases will just barely fall out of the gun most likely.
Berry's makes a fantastic product. You'll really like them once you get past the initial fear of not having actual data for them. 90% of what I shoot is Berry's.
Good luck and have fun.Last edited by XDRoX; 06-20-2013, 7:08 PM.Chris
<----Rimfire Addict
Originally posted by OceanbobGet a DILLON... -
I use berry's for my 9mm and 40 s&w in different weights and coatings. The thick plated boolits are rated 1200+fps. I keep all my loads in the light to moderate range.
Accur#5 40 cal s&w 180 gr. plated boolit
5.8 gr 849fps 6.5gr max 965fps
33600 psi
1.125 min. oal This data according to Lee 2nd edition Modern ReloadingSoylent green is peeplesComment
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From Berry's Website:
FAQ: How do I load Berry's Preferred Plated Bullets?
Plated bullets occupy a position between cast bullets and jacketed bullets. They are soft lead, but have a hard outer shell on them. When loading plated bullets we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual. You must use data for a bullet that has the same weight and profile as the one you are loading. Do not exceed mid-range loads. Do not use magnum loads.Hornady LnL, Dillon Precision, RCBS, Lee Precision and Lyman User
If You want Match or Leadless hunting Ammo check out Monolithic Munitions Yes I am a shill, friends with the owners.
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Watch Astro steal brass and take it into his cage....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4B_pd-yRWE&hd=1
Glock 20C at indoor range....
http://youtu.be/T4bP8DnhT9QComment
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I have to assume your gun is a auto loader. Pressure signs are elusive because you don't have the feeling of removing the case by hand. Auto loading pistols have a portion of the case unsupported meaning you are relying on the brass balloon to contain the massive amount of pressure. Certain match shoots require very heavy loads,there seems to be a lot of discussion about removing case bulges IMHO this is on the verg of sending the shooter to the hospital ! Spend another $100 & get a chronograph watch as you develop your loads. Remember there are fast guns & slow guns you may not achieve the listed speeds.Comment
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