Reloading 308 for an 18" M1A

[barrage]

I'm pretty brand new to reloading here and had a couple of questions for those of you in the know.

I finally got my hands on a World's Finest Trimmer and got to work on a few cases last night, knocking them down to just over 2.000", but instead of looking up the correct powder charge, I went off of memory, loading 42.0 grains of IMR 3031 instead of 40.2 grains. Anyone with an M1A know if this is safe to shoot, or should I break them down (I only did 7) and reload them again, or even better yet, just keep them as is and use them as an excuse to buy a Remington 700?

Also, while I found out the hard way that case lengths of 2.03" - 2.04" are a recipe for misfires (and exploding rifles, though nothing that extreme happened), I feel like there's a lot more room for error in overall length, with my finished cartridges coming in at an overall length of 2.078" - 2.082" 2.780" - 2.820".

What say you guys on what I've posted here? Should I break them down and go for less slop or am I good to go?

[drkphibr]

I'm pretty brand new to reloading here and had a couple of questions for those of you in the know.

I finally got my hands on a World's Finest Trimmer and got to work on a few cases last night, knocking them down to just over 2.000", but instead of looking up the correct powder charge, I went off of memory, loading 42.0 grains of IMR 3031 instead of 40.2 grains. Anyone with an M1A know if this is safe to shoot, or should I break them down (I only did 7) and reload them again, or even better yet, just keep them as is and use them as an excuse to buy a Remington 700?

Also, while I found out the hard way that case lengths of 2.03" - 2.04" are a recipe for misfires (and exploding rifles, though nothing that extreme happened), I feel like there's a lot more room for error in overall length, with my finished cartridges coming in at an overall length of 2.078" - 2.082".

What say you guys on what I've posted here? Should I break them down and go for less slop or am I good to go?

My experience with an M1A (National Match) has bee the following:

1. Always verify the brass in a case gauge
2. Anything resized (either full length or neck) that doesn't fit PERFECTLY (e.g, easy in/out and within size) gets fired out of a more forgiving LR-308
3. Used to use 3031 and CONSTANTLY had issues with pressure and switched to 4895 (more consistent performance - for me)
4. In combination with above (and more pressure related) is bullet used (weight/shape) and COL
5. .308 extraction tool is VERY useful (especially when you are trying to dial in the bullet/powder "sweet spot" for your needs) when you have case separation and you have 90% of your brass stuck in your barrel
6. When in doubt, PULL and start over. Not worth the risk.
7. When everything is dialed in, such a blast!

[micro911]

The sierra manual shows:

150 grain bullets: Max 43.8 grains of IMR3031
168 grain HPBT: max 41.1 grains of IMR3031

Cartridge case length should be 2.015" and loaded cartridge length for maximum of 2.8"

I have seated the bullet longer than 2.8". I seat the bullets as long as it can fit in the magazine for my M-1A. It worked fine for me. I used IMR 4895 and 4064 only for 308, so I cannot speak for 3031. If the cartridge case length is 2.078"-2.082", it may not chamber, or bolt may not lock.

[barrage]

The sierra manual shows:

150 grain bullets: Max 43.8 grains of IMR3031
168 grain HPBT: max 41.1 grains of IMR3031

Cartridge case length should be 2.015" and loaded cartridge length for maximum of 2.8"

I have seated the bullet longer than 2.8". I seat the bullets as long as it can fit in the magazine for my M-1A. It worked fine for me. I used IMR 4895 and 4064 only for 308, so I cannot speak for 3031. If the cartridge case length is 2.078"-2.082", it may not chamber, or bolt may not lock.

Thanks for the replies. I'm loading 150 grain Sierra full metal jacket boat tail, so it looks like I'm within their documented max load. I should also note a mistype on my part. My overall cartridge length is 2.780" - 2.820" with case lengths trimmed down to 2.000" - 2.010" as I found anything past 2.030" causes a light strike of the firing pin. A testament to a well designed rifle, luck, or both that I didn't have to buy a new rifle... needless to say, I'm quite a bit more cautious.

[Dougie67]

I also reload .308 and have a scout pm me if you want ill share my info.
Doug

[mark501w]

Use same case same primer same bullet. I don't use GI or quasi GI cases. I trim to 2.0" & SB size. Set your bullet length to fit your mag. 3031 should be a good powder. I use 4064. Pull the bullets buy a 700 anyway.

[GillaFunk]

Get on the m14forum.com

All the M14 info you need is there. Those guys are M14 nut-jobs.

[EL_NinO619]

I'm pretty brand new to reloading here and had a couple of questions for those of you in the know.

I finally got my hands on a World's Finest Trimmer and got to work on a few cases last night, knocking them down to just over 2.000", but instead of looking up the correct powder charge, I went off of memory, loading 42.0 grains of IMR 3031 instead of 40.2 grains. Anyone with an M1A know if this is safe to shoot, or should I break them down (I only did 7) and reload them again, or even better yet, just keep them as is and use them as an excuse to buy a Remington 700?

Pull them, or spend $1,000 on a 700 with mount optics and a bipod

Also, while I found out the hard way that case lengths of 2.03" - 2.04" are a recipe for misfires (and exploding rifles, though nothing that extreme happened), I feel like there's a lot more room for error in overall length, with my finished cartridges coming in at an overall length of 2.078" - 2.082" 2.780" - 2.820".

You don't want the cases to short because you will lose neck tension, I don't think it will blow up your gun unless you get setback and have a extremely hot load. I load COAL to 2.790-80". I trim to 2.005-10

What say you guys on what I've posted here? Should I break them down and go for less slop or am I good to go?

You want to use a powder that burns fast enough before it reaches the gas port, you also don't want to load .308 pressures. Load 7.62 data not to add stress to your op rod. Powders I have had success with are Win 748, BLC-(2), Varget, TAC. I also like to use CCI No.34, I know you don't need to but before the panic I did not mind paying the extra $5-6 for piece of mind. I have used standard CCI and Win LR with out any problems. Keep you gun clean and seat your primer below the rim of PP and your GTG.

http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

[barrage]

Get on the m14forum.com

All the M14 info you need is there. Those guys are M14 nut-jobs.

I thought about that once, but that place seems a little too much like 7.62x54r. I would probably last about 6 hours there before getting banned for saying I put a USGI buttplate on my polymer stock.

Thanks for the help here though fellas. It's been a while and I need a bullet puller to break apart the 100 or so rounds I made since this post and do them correctly, but it turns out the problem all along was I didn't have my decapper/resizing die screwed down far enough, so my shoulders were all out of spec.

After cranking it down some more and using my Remington 700 as a chamber gauge, all is well. Fired 20 reloads out of the Remington yesterday and they performed beautifully. Have not a doubt in my mind they'll feed and fire just the same out of the ol' M1A now.

Pretty happy with 3031 as long as I can keep it from spilling and wedging into my press.

[FLIGHT762]

You want to use a powder that burns fast enough before it reaches the gas port, you also don't want to load .308 pressures. Load 7.62 data not to add stress to your op rod. Powders I have had success with are Win 748, BLC-(2), Varget, TAC. I also like to use CCI No.34, I know you don't need to but before the panic I did not mind paying the extra $5-6 for piece of mind. I have used standard CCI and Win LR with out any problems. Keep you gun clean and seat your primer below the rim of PP and your GTG.

http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

In the Zediker download,^^^^^^^^^^ he warns against using Varget. He believes it is too slow despite what Hodgdon says and he feels it can damage the rifle. I've owned an M1-A and have been reloading for it since 1974. I added a Scout a few years ago. They're great rifles.

[FLIGHT762]

Thanks for the help here though fellas. It's been a while and I need a bullet puller to break apart the 100 or so rounds I made since this post and do them correctly, but it turns out the problem all along was I didn't have my decapper/resizing die screwed down far enough, so my shoulders were all out of spec.

After cranking it down some more and using my Remington 700 as a chamber gauge, all is well. Fired 20 reloads out of the Remington yesterday and they performed beautifully. Have not a doubt in my mind they'll feed and fire just the same out of the ol' M1A now.

Pretty happy with 3031 as long as I can keep it from spilling and wedging into my press.

That's one of the first things to avoid a slam fire is to be sure you're bumping shoulders back enough and seating primers well below flush.

You'll find brass gets beaten badly in the M-1A. After 4-5 loadings the brass is usually toast.

It still is a very good idea to read the Zediker download that Elnino619 posted. Lots of good information there.