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  • #16
    NiteQwill
    Calguns Addict
    • Dec 2007
    • 6368

    Originally posted by STI
    OK another question. I have an XL650 with carbide dies, running brass through the sizing die is smooth, but after the down stroke of the powder drop/flaring it is sometimes really difficult on the up stroke to separate the brass from the flaring die. I'm thinking about using lube. If I spray lube (I have Lyman's) on the brass, let it dry and run it through will the lube ruin my reloads? Will it be dangerous to shoot if lube is still on the finished cartridge?
    No.

    If you're afraid of doing so, you can wipe off your completed rounds with a rag + 70-90% rubbing alcohol OR just tumble your rounds for 15-20 minutes. I usually do the latter because I reload in large batches.

    The fate of the wounded rest in the hands of the ones who apply the first dressing.

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    • #17
      STI
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2012
      • 521

      I decided to try the lube. I gave my brass a quick spray and WOW!!! Night and day difference, my machine is running so much smoother and faster now. I'm also getting a lot less brass dust on the shell plate and finished round chute.

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      • #18
        bruce381
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2009
        • 2453

        As you run it will get smother OR take out the powder exspander thing and chuck in a drill and polish the end with 200 grit then 300 it will be very smooth then and reduce the stick. Also I tumble in walnut shell before loading and the shell seems to impart a dry/slick feel to the brass which helps also.

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        • #19
          Fishslayer
          In Memoriam
          • Jan 2010
          • 13035

          Originally posted by STI
          I started loading .45 for the first time today on my XL650. I set the flare to about .010" but I noticed it was a bit difficult to keep the bullet sitting straight up on the case. So I flared it to .015" which is about as far as I like to go, but it was still difficult to keep the bullet upright.
          There's really no hard number for flaring. It's going to vary with headstamp and bullet type. It should be flared just enough for the bullet to sit upright.
          "He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog.
          You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart.
          You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."


          Originally Posted by JackRydden224
          I hope Ruger pays the extortion fees for the SR1911. I mean the gun is just as good if not better than a Les Baer.
          Originally posted by redcliff
          A Colt collector shooting Rugers is like Hugh Grant cheating on Elizabeth Hurley with a hooker.

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          • #20
            milw50717
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2006
            • 740

            Originally posted by STI
            I decided to try the lube. I gave my brass a quick spray and WOW!!! Night and day difference, my machine is running so much smoother and faster now. I'm also getting a lot less brass dust on the shell plate and finished round chute.
            Remember to keep the XL650 lubed as well.



            Comment

            • #21
              Revoman
              Senior Member
              • Dec 2007
              • 2395

              "OR take out the powder exspander thing and chuck in a drill and polish the end with 200 grit then 300 it will be very smooth then and reduce the stick"

              This ^^^^I had that same experience and polished the flare end, stopped the issue. Some are rougher than others.

              If you have a chance to look at on 'older' set of Dillon dies, the flare/powder drop tube was highly polished, they must have stopped doing that to save money....and leave it up to you to fix.

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