.38 Reload Fail to Fire

[K2theG]

As the title states, getting intermittent f-t-f. Here's the setup:

125gr Rainier plated FP
.38 tumbled/sized brass
4.2gr Hodgdon HP-38
Wolf Small Rifle Primer

Revolver - S&W M&P R8

Using double action, I get one discharge for every 2-3 trigger pulls. Single action, they all discharge. Examining the primer dimples, the DA failures had half the firing pin depth of the successful rounds.

Searching this forum (and the internet) produced the following:
Verify primers are seated 0.004" below casing surface - Done
Make sure strain spring has not backed itself out - Done

I've shot two batches of the above recipe with identical results. I do not want to reload any more until I resolve this issue. There was a statement posted here today about Wolf being the hardest primers so this might be the cause.

Any/all feedback appreciated, thanks in advance.

[Bill Steele]

As the title states, getting intermittent f-t-f. Here's the setup:

125gr Rainier plated FP
.38 tumbled/sized brass
4.2gr Hodgdon HP-38
Wolf Small Rifle Primer

Revolver - S&W M&P R8

Using double action, I get discharge 1 for every 2-3 trigger pulls. Single action, they all discharge. Examining the primer dimples, the DA failures had half the firing pin depth of the successful rounds.

Searching this forum (and the internet) produced the following:
Verify primers are seated 0.004" below casing surface - Done
Make sure strain spring has not backed itself out - Done

I've shot two batches of the above recipe with identical results. I do not want to reload any more until I resolve this issue. There was a statement posted here today about Wolf being the hardest primers so this might be the cause.

Any/all feedback appreciated, thanks in advance.

Two possible factors.

First, anyone who tells you a fixed dimension for where the primer should be seated should be ignored for further advice. Primers have to be fully seated, hard stop. If you have some deep primer pockets, using a fixed dimension for seating your primers can lead to primers not being fully seated and thus the anvil is not pressed up against the cup and primer material. Multiple hits will seat the primer (and also get the cup closer to the anvil) thus you get the fire after repeated strikes.

Second, if you have a light hammer spring, harder/thicker cups like Wolf (and most rifle primers) will cause FTF issues. If you have light springs, primers like Federal and Winchester with their softer cups will work better.

But in any case, seat your primers fully, hard stop, not to a specific dimension.

Good luck, have fun.

[tiller]

You mist seat those primers extremly deep you do not want them to push forward when the firing pin hits it.... Thats how hard the cups are...

[K2theG]

You mist seat those primers extremly deep you do not want them to push forward when the firing pin hits it.... Thats how hard the cups are...

Thanks for the info guys, looks like more elbow grease should do the trick.

p.s. Does "magnum" designation affect any of the above?

[jdmacl]

Simply put, why are you using small rifle primer for .38?

They are going to be harder than small pistol in any case, and Wolf primers are harder than most to start with.

I use small pistol CCI and Winchester for my .38 without any problems.

[tiller]

Thanks for the info guys, looks like more elbow grease should do the trick.

p.s. Does "magnum" designation affect any of the above?

Are you using the small rifle magnum primers?? Anything wolf or tula needs to be seated all the way... Elbow grease is required... Thats why most people dont like them is becuase its too hard for them to seat i guess

[Fishslayer]

Simply put, why are you using small rifle primer for .38?

My guess would be that OP couldn't find SPP. Lots of people have used SRP for pistol rounds.

[K2theG]

My guess would be that OP couldn't find SPP. Lots of people have used SRP for pistol rounds.

Correct - picked up 2k since that was all that was available a few months ago. I've been trying to scrounge SPP's on the Private Sale board here, with limited success, until I can get work through the Wolf's I have, so this knowledge helps a lot. My primary caliber is .45ACP but I need to get this one sorted for the occasions I want to shoot the wheel gun.

Thanks again everyone.

p.s. Anyone interested in selling SPP's ?

[TATER313]

I have used srp in glocks and cz75b before, but loaded a few rounds first to test. worked fine. I stopped using them on the glock, due to friend broke the plastic piece of fire pin assembly broke.

[ShootinMedic]

I had the same problem with a batch of .40 with wolf primers. I got a hand primer and made sure they were all seated all the way and my failure rate went from about 20% in the first 100 to 0% in the remaining 900.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

[bruceflinch]

Correct - picked up 2k since that was all that was available a few months ago. I've been trying to scrounge SPP's on the Private Sale board here, with limited success, until I can get work through the Wolf's I have, so this knowledge helps a lot. My primary caliber is .45ACP but I need to get this one sorted for the occasions I want to shoot the wheel gun.

Thanks again everyone.

p.s. Anyone interested in selling SPP's ?

What is your location?

[K2theG]

What is your location?

Foothill Ranch

[JagerDog]

SRP's are atleast as rare as SPP. I'd bet someone would be willing to trade.

[K2theG]

Simply put, why are you using small rifle primer for .38?

They are going to be harder than small pistol in any case, and Wolf primers are harder than most to start with.

I use small pistol CCI and Winchester for my .38 without any problems.

Ran 100 rounds last night with Winchester SPP's - perfect!

[bruce381]

tula's and wolf are about 1/2 thousands wider than Winchester etc.

Thus they feel tight and sometimes you do not bottom them out.

Also the anvil does not stick down as far as Winchester which means you must seat them deeper to pre load them.

in other words mash them in harder than normal