? Separating PPU 5.56 cases from PPU .223cases

[eric90503]

I'd like to apologize for the stupid question...

I've been running a good amount of PPU 5.56 and PPU .223 ammo for a while now and have saved my brass for future reloads.

I understand that a 5.56 cartridge is ever so slightly different from a .223 cartridge.

I have this habit of separating headstamps for my batches that I prepare. This is because I usually buy a few thousand of the same manufacturer.

Question: Is there any benefit for separating the PPU 5.56 brass from the PPU .223 brass? Or is this just a noob wasting his time, lol...


Thanks

btw, I do have a bastard mixed headstamp pile for my hoser under 50yd ammo.

[C3nt3rMa55]

Do it if you want but I wouldn't sweat it.


I don't

[J-cat]

Weigh them and see. Some military cases weigh 103 grains. I weighed my batch of PPU 223 and it averages @97 grains. If the 5.56 PPU brass weighs over 100, I would sort them.

[koehn,jim]

To me it would depend on the use for the final load and the powder being used. The military brass is usually thicker giving less case capacity. The pressure can spike faster with some powder loads and turn max loads into over max pressure. I would seperate it and keep them seperate.

[bruceflinch]

I just got back a batch of processed 223. there was a baggie of PPU 5.56 separate, that the guy said would just bind up in the machine.

[patrickstarfish]

I just got back a batch of processed 223. there was a baggie of PPU 5.56 separate, that the guy said would just bind up in the machine.

I've had no issues with PPU brass. Speer '10 brass should be thrown away though, primer pockets are super tight, even after reaming.

[savagemann]

I personally sort all my rifle reloading brass by headstamp.
Just recently went through 2 5 gallon buckets of .223. It didn't take as long as you'd think.
I do it for 3 reasons.
Obvious reason is for consistency.
Second, to separate military crimp primer pockets.
Third, it gives me a chance to weed out any damaged cases.

[Davisje011]

I always sort out my .223 in the following manner:

.223 cases
once-fired .223
5.56
LC 02-12 5.56

I usually sell off the .223 after giving it a good tumble and keep the 5.56

[eric90503]

Thank you my brothers for all your input, very insightful. Now I don't feel totally OCD for separating the brass.

I figured if I was going to put that much time into assembling a cartridge with quality projectiles and powder, I might as well not skimp and be consistent.

[Davisje011]

Yes, it definetly makes a difference, i've seen flash-holes in some manufacturers cases that are damn near the wall of the primer pocket, so i make sure that my premium stuff (LC 02-12) is reserved for my more accurate loads.

[Whiterabbit]

Interesting, the replies. I notice the differences ALL reference case characteristics.

I give a fig for none of that. What I care about is a robust load. If I have a gun that will be a 100 yard gun, I don't need match ammo. I can load loosey goosey and still put down 1 hole groups at 100 yards on a good shooting day! I could develop a load that might shoot MOA to 500 yards but needs to be an exact OAL, powder charge accurate to .1 gr, concentric as possible, etc etc etc, That's great, but I wouldn't see the benefit at 100! Meanwhile I make reloading a pain back home.

Good enough is good enough.

Here's an example:

My hunting load for a rifle can tolerate a +/- .2gr variance in powder charge. That's a .4gr spread! Many people here would find that unacceptable (about 1% variance). How does my load shoot? I have plenty of 1 hole targets at 100 yards. I can hit 2 liter bottles with ease at 320 yards. It might do well farther too, I just haven't taken it out any farther. That's good enough for a hunting load!

And that is a "large" (calguns standards, not statistical standards) variance on a reloading aspect most would agree has a "large" impact on ballistic performance. Case weight (and by extension, internal dimensions) would arguably (comparatively) be considered to have a "smaller" impact on ballistic performance.

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So that being said, here is MY recommendation to you:

Maybe you have your load. Maybe you don't. If not, separate your cases and go nuts. Develop your fine load in one case.

When finished, load THAT LOAD in the other case and shoot for groups. load a bunch. 20. 50. whatever you like. Shoot a bunch of groups. Compare side by side. Is there a shift in POI? is there a shift in average group size?

THAT is the criteria I would use to determine if its worth sorting. Real world paper. Not micrometer measurements.


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There's a reason many pistol shooters don't sort. Maybe they would if they were shooting for groups at 100 yards!

[Whiterabbit]

FYI I DO sort my 460 S&W pistol brass. Why? I do shoot for groups at 100 yards, and it makes a difference. Herded cats for hundreds of rounds trying to find what shot well.

What case aspect causes it? web thickness? wall thickness? primer pocket condition? brass grain size? flash hole diameter?

I'll let the calguns guys agonize over that stuff. All I need to know is that its different, therefore sort and move on.