Glock 19 reloads failure to eject

[smiledr]

Ok new to reloading 9 mm, been reloading rifles for 2 years. Have a new Glock 19, shooting factory fine but fails to recycle my reloads. Shooting Sierra 124 JHP BT with Titegroup 4.4, win cases, cci 500 primers. At first I thought it was OAL so shortened them to 1.070 which is .005 below Sierra manual. Now it is firing slightly better, but the brass continues to fail to eject or the next cartridge doesn't seem to want to seat properly when the brass does eject. Could this be a flare issue? or not enough crimp? I am using a lee turret press with 4 dies, so am somewhat confused. Any help would be appreciated.

[HighLander51]

Did you chamber check the rounds in the barrel? The rounds load into the chamber ok, but don't eject... Maximum length on a 9mm is 1.170" and you are well under that. Also 4.4 grains of TiteGroup is plenty enough juice. Is this your first Glock? What does your grip look like?

[alfred1222]

ok, when you say it fails to eject, does that mean that after you fire the round, the empty casing doesnt get extracted, OR, does it extract but not fly out of the gun, OR does it properly eject and than not chamber another round?

[smiledr]

not extracting

standard grip, chamber checked and just rechecked a batch with cartridge gage, same group of reloads, all check out. The empty case does not get extracted. This is my 3rd glock 9mm have a 17, 19 and 23. Haven't tried these with the 17 but same problem with the 23.

[smiledr]

Alfred-Now that I think about it, I experienced all three of those cases. I am going to try some factory loads and my reloads in the 17 and the 19 to see what happens. If it jams in the 17 with the reloads then I know it has to have something to do with either crimping or flaring as my oal and load are on.

[Lumpy8]

A couple of observations from the above posts.

1) Glock model 23 is a .40 caliber not 9mm, unless your running aftermarket barrel, then you should replace the ejector with a 9 mm ejector.

2) When you chamber check use your gun barrel not a cartridge gauge. Take the barrel out of the gun and use the actual barrel that you will be shooting the round out of.

[alfred1222]

Alfred-Now that I think about it, I experienced all three of those cases. I am going to try some factory loads and my reloads in the 17 and the 19 to see what happens. If it jams in the 17 with the reloads then I know it has to have something to do with either crimping or flaring as my oal and load are on.

Do this and see what happens. Also try what lumpy said and remove the glock barrel and try to chamber a round and see what happens. If you're in the bay area and need help I could help you with it. What kind of crimp die do you use

[J-cat]

Is your crimp the same as factory? Cuz that will eliminate that variable. Are you limpwristing? The recoil impulse of your load is much lighter than factory ammo.

[smiledr]

sorry guys it's a 26 not a 23. using a 4 hole lee turret press. The last die is a crimping die. Will keep you posted to see what happens. thanks

[glock7]

i use a lee turret press and i've been using a 1.12 OAL for my g17 with no problems. Maybe the OAL is short, i had the same problem with my beretta using a 1.12 oal, then i searched around and found that folks who had the beretta were using a 1.15 OAL so i tried it and it worked. ymmv

[J-cat]

Have you used the Sierra 125 JHC bullet? You cant load it to 1.150"

[alfred1222]

sorry guys it's a 26 not a 23. using a 4 hole lee turret press. The last die is a crimping die. Will keep you posted to see what happens. thanks

Yes but what kind of crimping die? Taper or roll?

[SixPointEight]

This is one of a couple things usually. My gf has this issue with my favorite loads, but the gun works great with factory ammo. Light-loaded ammo will exacerbate limp-wristing issues, so if you're limp-wristing slightly, the gun will run with factory ammo, but not with lighter reloads. Firm up your grip, or have someone else try it and see how it goes.

[Bill Steele]

4.4grs of Titegroup is not a light load.

Frankly, I think under that bullet, you will be getting a similar recoil impulse to factory rounds, so I doubt it is a muzzle energy thing.

I would look at the belling/crimp first. With those bullets you only need the slightest bell to seat the bullet properly. You then need to make sure the belling is removed completely such that the case mouth is straight after crimping.

Fixing these things long distance is a little blind man's bluff kind of thing.

[smiledr]

I am leaning towards a flaring crimping issue. I think I will try backing off the flare a little and also the crimp. going to try and get some measurements and compare with factory ammo. I am loading the sierra to 1.075 which is what the manual calls for on the 124 JHP.