Getting Started in Reloading

[mmesa005]

Hello All,

I am new to reloading and just ordered a Hornady LNL Auto-Progressive with dies / plates for 9mm luger and .45acp. I plan to add .38/.357 at a later date.

I have watched several videos on YouTube, been reading the Lymans Reloading book.

I am looking for recommendations / advice for the following:

• Formulas for Plinking Ammo
• Formulas for Self-Defense Ammo
• Best places to purchase brass, bullets, primers
• Best places to purchase powders
• Recommendations for Powders
• Other recommendations?

[ChrisGarrett]

Hello All,

I am new to reloading and just ordered a Hornady LNL Auto-Progressive with dies / plates for 9mm luger and .45acp. I plan to add .38/.357 at a later date.

I have watched several videos on YouTube, been reading the Lymans Reloading book.

I am looking for recommendations / advice for the following:

• Formulas for Plinking Ammo
• Formulas for Self-Defense Ammo
• Best places to purchase brass, bullets, primers
• Best places to purchase powders
• Recommendations for Powders
• Other recommendations?

You just need to read your manual, buy another manual, or two, contact the powder maker's sites and request their free reloading pamphlets.

Read all that you can and start low and work up in your own weapons. There are really no short cuts.

What works well in my weapons, probably won't work well in yours.

As far as components go, what you can actually find 'now' will dictate the direction that you will start in.

MidwayUSA, NatchezSS.com, PowderValleyInc.com, MidSouth shooters supply, Graf and sons and any local places.

You really need to read, pick a powder, bullet and primer and begin at the 'start charge' and see what you see out on paper.

Chris

[mmesa005]

Chris,

Thanks for the quick reply! Lots of books and videos out there! Looking for a recommendation on "Reloading 101" something written for the novice to help walk them through the process?

Again, I appreciate the advice!

[pyromensch]

double edge sword, with ammo in short supply, reloading is a way to go...if you can find components.
when i started, they didn't have progressive loaders, or digital "anything"
read the manual, started on the low end, weigh every charge, then every other, then every 10. still check every 5 at the setup, and every 10 after i've been running for an hour or so.
enjoy yourself, and be safe. and don't smoke
for bullets, check oregon trail lasercast. i have used them for years, and you can load them pretty hot, without leading. and when i last checked, they were pretty well stocked.

[blockfort]

If you use the same bullet (or at least the same weight and construction), you could probably make all of your loads the same. The small difference in powder between a plinking load and a self defense load will be almost $0. It also may be good to practice with your defense ammo so you get used to it and get it well tested. The big price difference will be the bullets themselves. I've never bought hollow points, but I'll bet they are expensive compared to a regular plated or lead bullet. Either way, you will have a hard time finding anything right now. I buy from Xtreme, but right now they are about 6 weeks or more behind in shipping.

I think most primers are about the same, but some may argue with me. And I think for pistol, many powders will do a fine job, but again, some people may argue. I picked my first powders buy calling Hodgdon and asking them what would be best for my application. They told me Titegroup for 9mm and Clays for 45, but my primary application is IDPA, and self defense may yield different answers. But when those ran out, I bought 8lbs of HP38 from a guy who comes to my matches. I also bought about 13000 primers from him, federal SPP and Winchester LPP.

[mmesa005]

pyromensch, blockfort,

I appreciate the advice!

[blockfort]

Where do you live?

[Hallx7]

Mmesa... Same question as blockfort. Where are you located. There's a few places around my area that regularly have powder in stock.
I use xtreme bullets direct from the manufacturer but as previously mentioned they are back logged about 6 weeks right now.
I use Titegroup for all my 380, 9mm, 357 mag, 40 and 45. Varget for my 223, 270, 308, 30-30 and 30-06.
And trail boss for my 45 colt, 454 and 45-70.
Try and find someone local to you who is willing to show you how they do things. I have shown at least 10 of my buddies how to reload.
Every setup comes with its own set of things to think about and accessories to buy.

[ChrisGarrett]

Chris,

Thanks for the quick reply! Lots of books and videos out there! Looking for a recommendation on "Reloading 101" something written for the novice to help walk them through the process?

Again, I appreciate the advice!

I post a lot in the reloading sections at SnipersHide.com and AR15.com. The latter is probably better for pistol stuff.

They both have 'Reloading 101' stickies, like CalGuns does, above our posts.

I hate to be a neg vibe, but I've been doing this for 18 years and I'm still learning and it's hard to teach a new person in a few posts on the internet, if you understand me?

I self taught myself in 95, before I even had a computer, with just the Speer #12 manual, Nosler IV manual and the monthly reloading article in HANDGUNS magazine and I did this with a Dillon 550b, so you're light years ahead of where I was and you'll do fine, but it's not a 24 hour process, either.

See what you can buy. If you see something available and you're not sure, ask here. Bring a reloading manual with you to the gun store. Read the loads in your manual(s) for the cartridges that you're reloading.

Pick a couple of powders in the middle of the data chart and practice your reloading technique and shooting. Powder doesn't go bad and if your choice isn't ideal, save it for another cartridge down the road, or another bullet choice.

There are tons of options out there and you can fry your brain before ever loading a single round. Pick something that you can get, for the cartridges you'll be loading and dive in.

Follow the book, don't drink/smoke while you reload, sedate the kids if you have to, send the wife/GF to the mall and focus, but you really need to go through the 'how to' sections of the manual and the '101 stickies'.

Remember, one is never a good reader, only a good rereader.

Chris

[Fyathyrio]

Basically, first thing to do is find components. There is a fair chance you will not find the same components as shown in your manual. For example...

You finally find the primers you need, but they are made by Wolf or Tula...
You finally get your hands on some brass, but it's made by Star Line...
The gods are kind and you score some projectiles, but they are plated Berry's...
It's your lucky day, and you get a powder that will work with your other components, but it's not your 1st (or 3rd) choice...

Get what you can, and go from there. Wolf/Tula primers are just fine. Star Line brass is good stuff and lasts many reloadings. Berry's are well regarded in the reloading world for inexpensive plinking. The most critical choice is the powder, you may have to wait to find something once you have the other stuff on order.

Once you have all the components, then we can perhaps help with recipes. Other then that, in all things reloading, start low and work your way up. Don't go below or above recommended charge levels. The general rule of thumb is whenever you substitute components, drop 10% charge and work your way back up.

You can use the same size/style primers from different manufacturers without much concern compared to your books recipes, brass is pretty much brass in pistol, a little more of a concern in rifle, and you can follow the recipes for the projectile in your book that most closely matches what you managed to finally purchase...a .45 cal 185 gr Hornady XTP is very similar to a .45 cal 185 gr Speer Gold Dot for example. Just don't go straight to max powder level.

Most folks will make several batches at different charge weights. My preferred method is to make 100 test rounds, 20 at each progressively higher charge. I shoot 10 through the chronograph, and 10 at a target, take notes and review the data, and decide on my personal recipe for my components from there.

For example, today I just came back from testing a bunch of rounds. My components for my .44 Mag were Missouri Bullets 240 gr LSWC, Star Line nickle plated brass, Wolf LPP, and 9.0 to 11.0 gr Unique powder in 0.5 gr steps. Other then the powder, none of the components are found in any of the major reloading manuals, so I had to read between the lines a little. The 11.0 charge weight had the best accuracy and also the least deviation across the chronograph. Subjectively, it felt good recoil-wise and didn't appear to be spitting unburnt powder out like some .44 mag can. Now I've got my plan and can go reload a large batch.

There is a good group of reloaders here, feel free to ask questions, and good luck!

ETA: Check out Loadbooks USA (Available from www.midwayusa.com and elsewhere) for handy, caliber specific reloading data from a variety of powder and bullet manufacturers. Also, the book "ABCs of Reloading" explains things a little more in depth then the Lyman manual does.

[mmesa005]

Guys,

Thanks again for the great advice! I appreciate all feedback!