Adjust RCBs 45 ACP dies

[ryan0320]

Hi All,


I have been reloading 357mag for a while.
I just started to reload 45 ACP with RCBs 3 set dies
For some reason, I just can't seating and crimp die set properly.

I followed the instruction from the factory.
set bullet depth first and back out seating stem.
and then, set up the crimp.
After the ammo is set, re-insert seating stem.
However, next round won't seat properly and it's always getting crimped before the bullet reached the proper depth.

Any idea?

Ryan

[foesgth]

I had the same problem. I ended up seating and crimping in two steps. Readjusting got to be a drag, so I purchased a Lee factory crimp die. My progressive press is an old RCBS 4x4. So I started using a Lee powder through expander die to get all the dies on my 4 position press.
This worked so well for me that I went with this system on all my pistol loads.

[GeoffLinder]

A taper crimp is what you want with .45ACP (unlike .357 mag) and taper crimping is always best done as a separate step.

1st, make sure you are belling the case mouth only enough to allow easy seating of the bullet. Then seat only, then remove seater and adjust for crimp step by running loaded round up in press with die backed out, then screw die in just enough to contact case mouth, then lower ram and screw in a tiny bit and raise ram. Repeat until belling is JUST removed, no more. Straightwall cases like .45ACP don't want to actually be crimped, just to have the belling removed so case is straightwall again. 45ACP indexes in chamber against the case mouth rim, this needs to be square to do so properly.

[J-cat]

You are overcrimping. The case mouth is digging into the bullet before it is fully seated. If you set the die to remove the bell only, it will not mess with your OAL. With that said, you will always get an OAL variance because no two bullets are exactly alike. The best approach is to crimp seperately.

[morrow]

With 45acp all you need to do is remove the belling/flare as it headspaces off the case mouth. This can be done wither either a taper crimp or roll crimp die. Taper crimp die is preferred and that's what your RCBS die is, so you're fine.

Setting a combo seat/crimp die is slightly tricky, but don't give up! Don't take the easy way out and waste more money on more dies! It's easy once you get the process down. For any round that headspaces off the case mouth, like 45acp, seating and crimping in the same step is just fine and won't cause any problems, especially when loading FMJ.

-Put the combo die in the press, don't screw it down very far, maybe half way down the case. Make sure the seating plug is screwed all the way out.
-Put a case with powder/primer/flared into the press.
-Put the bullet on and pull the handle to raise the round into the die
-Move the seating plug down little by little, pulling the handle each time, while keeping the die body unscrewed out enough to not cause any crimp. DO NOT screw down the die body yet, ONLY the seating plug.
-Once you get the bullet to the right depth screw the seating plug way out
-Now screw the die body down into the press, little by little, pulling the handle each time, until you achieve the right amount of crimp (45acp should be around .471, again, just removing the belling)
****now you have a correctly formed round********
-With the correct round in the press, pull the handle and tighten down the die body so it's centered and at the correct depth.
-Move the seating plug down until it contacts the tip of the bullet
-Do another round now to verify the seating plug is down far enough, when it is, lock it down.

You have now setup a seat/crimp combo die correctly. Always make sure a round is in the die when you lock it down, or the seating plug down, as it helps center the die.

***alternatively, if you already have a correctly formed round, or even a factory round, it makes this process much quicker as you won't need to spend as much time setting the seating depth and the amount of crimp***

[zealot9802]

just what i needed.

[zealot9802]

I have a follow up question and instead of making another thread, ill ask here.

I thought i was having the same issue, but was able to fix with the posts above. The problem that i am having now is that 230gr fmj projectiles seem to be a little taller than my factory round i am checking my work against. My OAL is as close to 1.275, but my factory round is 1.258. If i seat my projectile lower (closer to factory round) if goes in smoothly into my barrel that i took out of my 1911 to check headspace. Ill post pics of what my rounds look like in the barrel

[ryan0320]

Got it. Will try again tonight

[skibuff]

I think Morrow nailed it.

I would also make sure you are not over belling the case.

[skibuff]

I have a follow up question and instead of making another thread, ill ask here.

I thought i was having the same issue, but was able to fix with the posts above. The problem that i am having now is that 230gr fmj projectiles seem to be a little taller than my factory round i am checking my work against. My OAL is as close to 1.275, but my factory round is 1.258. If i seat my projectile lower (closer to factory round) if goes in smoothly into my barrel that i took out of my 1911 to check headspace. Ill post pics of what my rounds look like in the barrel

Different Bullets and different bullet manufactures use different OAL. You need to check what the bullet Manufacture recommends for an OAL for that specific bullet.

[J-cat]

I have a follow up question and instead of making another thread, ill ask here.

I thought i was having the same issue, but was able to fix with the posts above. The problem that i am having now is that 230gr fmj projectiles seem to be a little taller than my factory round i am checking my work against. My OAL is as close to 1.275, but my factory round is 1.258. If i seat my projectile lower (closer to factory round) if goes in smoothly into my barrel that i took out of my 1911 to check headspace. Ill post pics of what my rounds look like in the barrel

You don't have to load to 1.275" with 230 FMJ RN. 1.250"-1.260" is fine.

[zealot9802]

Factory


Mine

[zealot9802]

You don't have to load to 1.275" with 230 FMJ RN. 1.250"-1.260" is fine.

Thats what i needed to hear. Sweet!!!!

[TKM]

I have a follow up question and instead of making another thread, ill ask here.

I thought i was having the same issue, but was able to fix with the posts above. The problem that i am having now is that 230gr fmj projectiles seem to be a little taller than my factory round i am checking my work against. My OAL is as close to 1.275, but my factory round is 1.258. If i seat my projectile lower (closer to factory round) if goes in smoothly into my barrel that i took out of my 1911 to check headspace. Ill post pics of what my rounds look like in the barrel

Check to make sure you don't have problems loading the magazine completely. Do this after the first ten rounds instead of after the first thousand..... It's a good thing I have a 625.

It is possible to chamber some rounds that won't work in the mag. The first four or five will fit, then tolerance stacking will jam the next couple.

[J-cat]

zealot:

Is your 1911 a Sig?