i heard you could use small pistol magnum primers in standard loads. is this true? and if so do i change the powder charge? and if so how do i know how much powder for different calibers? thanks in advance
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What you're asking is completely plausible but can't really be answered simply. It's a complex question. Basically magnum primers are going to be hotter than normal ones. So just take your load down a few notches and re-work up your load.Chris
<----Rimfire Addict
Originally posted by OceanbobGet a DILLON... -
I use magnum pistol primers quite frequently in my normally non-magnum pistol loads. The safe way to do it is use start loads with the new primers and work up to your target velocity watching for signs of pressure.When asked what qualities he most valued in his generals, Napoleon said, "give me lucky ones."Comment
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What I do is use the start load in the book for the powder and bullet. Then work up slowly in .2gr increments, stopping when I get to my target velocity, start seeing signs of over pressure or I reach max load in the book.
When loading 40S&W I take it particularly slow on the work up if I am using anything other than the slowest option powder wise.
If you are new to reloading and anything I just posted seems the least bit puzzling, best to wait until you get the right components for the recipes you want to load.
Good luck, have fun, remember, safety first.Last edited by Bill Steele; 01-16-2013, 8:58 AM.When asked what qualities he most valued in his generals, Napoleon said, "give me lucky ones."Comment
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Like said above use starting loads. If only a max is listed than usually the starting load is %10 of max listed load.
I use them in all my .38 and .357. I've played with a few hundred in 9mm for fun, if I recall correctly I dropped the powder charge by either .1 or .2grs with bullseye. These were worked up from starting and never run even close to max loads.Comment
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Speer 14th edition (IIRC) covers this in good detail especially for .38 special and 9mm. This is complicated because they're such different rounds and seating depth, case volume, allowable working chamber pressures, case fill %age and so many other things come into play that it gets a little confuzzling. I'd pick up a Speer reloading manual and a RCBS manual and any others you can get hold of. Just one is NOT enough.
.40 I wouldn't worry about so much. Because the case volume is normally used up pretty well and it's already a high-ish pressure loading you should be able to drop the charge 1 grain from your normal load and work up from there. That's what I've done with .40 and 9mm and it has not resulted in any major issues so far (YMMV). You'll want to run the loads over a chronograph and watch for pressure signs like primer pocket loosening, case bulges, etc... Since the primer cup is thicker it won't flatten or pierce as easily which are some of the other pressure signs we normally look at.
.38 special is different. It has a very large case volume for the charge weights used with modern powders (originally it was designed as a black powder cartridge) and it could get unpredictable really fast. I had wild velocity results and bad leading problems with unique and green dot over magnum primers on .38 specials (lead target loads) and I'm glad my .357 is a strong one. A bulkier powder than normal will help (thinking trail boss). I'm sure with the heavier charge weights associated with jacketed bullets and in loadings edging toward +p that it'd be ok to then drop 1 grain of powder and work up a load over magnum primers. Light loads I wouldn't do it again personally.Comment
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I use mag primers in all my pistol loads. Never had a problem even with hotter loads. Then I use a ball powder(H-110) for hot loads and you should use a mag primer with it. I also use mag primers with Unique and 700X for mild loads. I also load down to 38special and 44special levels using the mag brass and mag primersA 30cal will reach out and touch them. A 50cal will kick their butt.
NRA Life Member, NRA certified RSO & Basic Pistol Instructor, Hunter, shooter, reloader
SCI, Manteca Sportsmen Club, Coalinga Rifle Club, Escalon Sportsmans Club, Waterford Sportsman Club & NAHA Member, Madison Society memberComment
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