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Which crimp to use on 38 spl.?

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  • rue
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2007
    • 1355

    Which crimp to use on 38 spl.?

    Do you roll crimp or taper crimp?
    Yes I read my reloading manual before I asked..
    Originally posted by halifax
    How about the next time a kid gets suspended/expelled for simply drawing a picture of a gun. I see a federal civil rights lawsuit against the school district for violation of 1st & 2nd amendments.


    Originally posted by CA357
    I am getting old and my bull***** tolerance is rapidly diminishing.
  • #2
    eaglemike
    CGN/CGSSA Contributor - Lifetime
    CGN Contributor - Lifetime
    • Jan 2008
    • 3938

    When shooting lead stuff with a crimp groove I like a roll crimp. With the usuall copper jacketed stuff, I end up using a taper.

    It's probably a moot point - very few of the current die makers provide a die that will make a good roll crimp (at least in my experience). The profile usually ends up somewhere between a roll and taper. I find the Lee carbide factory crimp dies to be very good, especially if I'm shooting in competition. YMMV...

    all the best,

    Mike
    There are some people that it's just not worth engaging.

    It's a muzzle BRAKE, not a muzzle break. Or is your muzzle tired?

    Comment

    • #3
      -hanko
      CGN/CGSSA Contributor
      CGN Contributor
      • Jul 2002
      • 14174

      Originally posted by eaglemike
      When shooting lead stuff with a crimp groove I like a roll crimp. With the usuall copper jacketed stuff, I end up using a taper.

      It's probably a moot point - very few of the current die makers provide a die that will make a good roll crimp (at least in my experience). The profile usually ends up somewhere between a roll and taper. I find the Lee carbide factory crimp dies to be very good, especially if I'm shooting in competition. YMMV...

      all the best,

      Mike
      Roll crimp if the bullet headspaces by design on the rim, taper if on the case mouth.

      I really like the Redding profile crimp die, does a VERY good job in on-the-edge .38spl and .357 loads.

      -hanko
      True wealth is time. Time to enjoy life.

      Life's journey is not to arrive safely in a well preserved body, but rather to slide in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "holy schit...what a ride"!!

      Heaven goes by favor. If it went by merit, you would stay out and your dog would go in. Mark Twain

      A man's soul can be judged by the way he treats his dog. Charles Doran

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      • #4
        gravygrabber
        Member
        • Feb 2008
        • 164

        Originally posted by -hanko
        Roll crimp if the bullet headspaces by design on the rim, taper if on the case mouth.

        I really like the Redding profile crimp die, does a VERY good job in on-the-edge .38spl and .357 loads.

        -hanko
        Sorry that confuses me, the bullets are copper plated if that helps...

        Comment

        • #5
          ar15barrels
          I need a LIFE!!
          • Jan 2006
          • 57136

          If it's got a groove to crimp into, you can use either style of crimp because the cartridge headspaces on the rim.
          If they don't have a crimp groove, go with a taper crimp.
          Randall Rausch

          AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
          Handguns: www.handgunbarrels.com
          Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
          Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
          Most work done while you wait on a scheduled shop visit.

          Comment

          • #6
            gravygrabber
            Member
            • Feb 2008
            • 164

            Originally posted by ar15barrels
            If it's got a groove to crimp into, you can use either style of crimp because the cartridge headspaces on the rim.
            If they don't have a crimp groove, go with a taper crimp.
            Ahh I see. The sides of my bullets are not grooved like lead bullets.
            They are actually from this site, http://www.xtremebullets.com/index.htm and are the plated kind.
            Last edited by gravygrabber; 02-29-2008, 3:43 PM.

            Comment

            • #7
              pcguy23
              Member
              • Dec 2007
              • 317

              crimp die

              +1 on the lee factory crimp die,
              I use it for all my .38/.357 reloading
              I back off the bullet seating/crimp die to only seat the bullet and then use a separate lee factory crimp die for crimping operations

              Mark

              Comment

              • #8
                gravygrabber
                Member
                • Feb 2008
                • 164

                I have RCBS dies...

                Comment

                • #9
                  eaglemike
                  CGN/CGSSA Contributor - Lifetime
                  CGN Contributor - Lifetime
                  • Jan 2008
                  • 3938

                  If you have room for the 4th die, you might want to use the Lee carbide factory crimp die instead of the supplied crimping die.

                  It's traditional practice to roll crimp rounds that locate on the rim, such as .38 special. However, that is often not possible with the bullets and dies available today. If it's a rimmed cartridge, and the bullet has a cannelure or crimp groove, AND you have a die that will roll crimp, that's best.

                  It's best to use a taper crimp die of the semiauto rounds, such as .45 acp. Unless you have a match grade barrel, the crimp won't matter as much as one might think. The spec's for a match chamber are different - shorter. The .45 acp brass is often shorter than max spec, resulting in inconsistent headspacing of the cartridge. 9mm is much worse, as it's tapered quite a bit - and the chamber dimensions and cartridge variance can add up to about a mile* of headspace variation.

                  I learned how to single-point threads making .38 special crimping dies at Star Machine Works. Every die was threaded onto a mandrel, then the outside was turned and threaded so it was concentric - after it'd come off the screw machine. Then finish reamed, polished, hardened, and polished again.

                  all the best,

                  Mike

                  *machine shop terminology
                  There are some people that it's just not worth engaging.

                  It's a muzzle BRAKE, not a muzzle break. Or is your muzzle tired?

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Linus
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2007
                    • 1290

                    Heres a useful video on reloading for the 38 Special.
                    sigpic

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