accurace tips for reloading for ar 15

[calixt0]

Ok I'm fairly new to this. I've been doing tons of reading on various forums and talking to friends who are well experienced in reloading but none have experience for auto loaders like ar-15's.

What I'm wanting to know is accuracy reloading tips for autoloaders. For example I've read alot about loading bullets so that they are just touching the rifeling to promote accuracy but that is always with bolt guns. As I'm shooting in a 556 chamber I'm sure I wont get to that length and still fit in the magazine anyways. So what tips other than consistant loads and brass prep would you all recommend?

thanks for the info

[joelogic]

Quality components. Consistency is really the key with a mag fed semi.

[problemchild]

For me getting sub 1" and closer to 1/2" was all about these things....

Good bullets (hornady or smk)
Exact same powder charge (say 26grs )
Bench rest primers (optional but helps)
Close headspace (.003)
NO crimp
Great barrel (shilen etc)

[calixt0]

For me getting sub 1" and closer to 1/2" was all about these things....

Good bullets (hornady or smk)
Exact same powder charge (say 26grs )
Bench rest primers (optional but helps)
Close headspace (.003)
NO crimp
Great barrel (shilen etc)

OK so you say good bullets, I assume that means nothing bulk

also exact same powder charge.. if all are within .1 grain (ie: out of 10 rounds all are either 24.1 or 24.2 grs) is that exact enough or is that too much variance?

[ExtremeX]

I don’t think he was referring to match bullets.... You can get good bullets in bulk…

[joelogic]

SMK bullets come in boxes of 500. Most scales are not more accurate than .1gr anyway.

[Quinc]

Smk = meh. Nosler and Bergers are the way to go.

[Jonathan Doe]

In my service rifle AR and RRA 24" Varmint rifles, 1-7" and 1-8" barrels, I used Lapua brass, Berger 77 grain bullets, Vihtavuori N140 powder, Federal bench rest primers. For single load rounds, I seat them .010" from the rifling. It worked very good for me. Usual case prep was done, also.

[Quinc]

Lots of good info http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/223rem/

[GeoffLinder]

OK, here is a starter post I made a bit ago:

MOA accuracy is not just the components, you need to work charge weight up through a ladder to find the barrels sweet spot. The difference between a load velocity that hits a specific barrels sweet spot and one that doesn't can mean the difference between a sub MOA result and a 2 plus MOA result.

Just duplicating someone else's charge weight data does not guarantee same results in your rifle. It's all about testing until you find the sweet spot.

OAL has an effect here too. Generally speaking the longer you load the better by reducing bullet jump to rifling. But you really want a little jump in an AR for pressure safety reasons.
________________________________________________

Here is some further info from another post of mine on this subject. The book I recommend in this post is where you will get schooled on accuracy loading bigtime:

First, start with one batch of case brand, then do some case segregation (weigh and set aside ones outside a 1.5-2 grain range). Then trim cases uniformly (you can additionally ream flash hole, uniform primer pocket and neck shave at this point if you are going for the whole shebang, remember to weight segregate AFTER case prep if you add these extra steps) and then seat bullets properly at consistent depth with no crimp (to start). Then run a series of tests with .2 to .4 increases of powder charge. Fire each test charge batch (five rounds) over a chrono AND on the target face carefully. When group tightens as velocity goes up, note that velocity. Continue and watch how group sizes change with rising velocity until max charge point reached. Look at targets and pick a velocity point where group on target is tightest. Then always using that same velocity (you will have to juggle charge to get back to it anytime you change something), experiment with other variables to see if they tighten group more. This is what load development is all about. Not just making everything nice and clean and similar in prep. You can only experiment with things like different bullets, seating depth and powder choice after you have found a barrel velocity node for your barrel. You must repeat each test at this velocity node or you will not know what is doing what on the target face.

All this assumes your group shooting technique is fairly decent. YMMV

For even more on this I highly recommend the following book.

http://www.zediker.com/books/handloading/hlmain.html

[GeoffLinder]

Also, this webpage has some really good info on load development:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/loaddev.htm

[calixt0]

thanks for all the info. how much use is a chrono? I know it would be needed to minimize dope and determining drop at any given distance. but just for getting started and working up an accurate load how important is it?

[problemchild]

x100

I can get from 1.5" down to 1/2 inch with different powder charges. The barrel harmonics plays a HUGE roll in bullet/barrel tuning.

OK, here is a starter post I made a bit ago:

MOA accuracy is not just the components, you need to work charge weight up through a ladder to find the barrels sweet spot. The difference between a load velocity that hits a specific barrels sweet spot and one that doesn't can mean the difference between a sub MOA result and a 2 plus MOA result.

Just duplicating someone else's charge weight data does not guarantee same results in your rifle. It's all about testing until you find the sweet spot.

OAL has an effect here too. Generally speaking the longer you load the better by reducing bullet jump to rifling. But you really want a little jump in an AR for pressure safety reasons.
________________________________________________

Here is some further info from another post of mine on this subject. The book I recommend in this post is where you will get schooled on accuracy loading bigtime:

First, start with one batch of case brand, then do some case segregation (weigh and set aside ones outside a 1.5-2 grain range). Then trim cases uniformly (you can additionally ream flash hole, uniform primer pocket and neck shave at this point if you are going for the whole shebang, remember to weight segregate AFTER case prep if you add these extra steps) and then seat bullets properly at consistent depth with no crimp (to start). Then run a series of tests with .2 to .4 increases of powder charge. Fire each test charge batch (five rounds) over a chrono AND on the target face carefully. When group tightens as velocity goes up, note that velocity. Continue and watch how group sizes change with rising velocity until max charge point reached. Look at targets and pick a velocity point where group on target is tightest. Then always using that same velocity (you will have to juggle charge to get back to it anytime you change something), experiment with other variables to see if they tighten group more. This is what load development is all about. Not just making everything nice and clean and similar in prep. You can only experiment with things like different bullets, seating depth and powder choice after you have found a barrel velocity node for your barrel. You must repeat each test at this velocity node or you will not know what is doing what on the target face.

All this assumes your group shooting technique is fairly decent. YMMV

For even more on this I highly recommend the following book.

http://www.zediker.com/books/handloading/hlmain.html

[GeoffLinder]

thanks for all the info. how much use is a chrono? I know it would be needed to minimize dope and determining drop at any given distance. but just for getting started and working up an accurate load how important is it?

A chrono is essential if you really want to get there. Without one all you can do is use good components and hope it works well, but finding the sweet spot is like looking for a needle in a haystack with a blindfold on without one.

To start with, use quality components, one batch brass and learn to control your process, consistency and uniformity everywhere is the starting point. Once you can do all the steps with solid process control, then you can find your way to the goal of the best possible result by going the full distance.

Don't start playing with different components to start. Just pick a good powder, bullet and use good brass. You cannot go wrong with Lake City or WW brass, Sierra SMK 69 bullets and Varget powder. These are the top dollar ways to go. You could start with a good bulk 55gr FMJ and a powder like WW748 to save wasting extra money as you learn.

A good 55gr FMJ is the Hornady bulk FMJBT with cannelure. Available from Midway, Wideners and many other online sellers. Even if you move on to other stuff later these will be a good basic plinking material that will also provide good accuracy.

[gau17]

Besides a good bullet. I believe case prep plays a big role on making good match ammo.

Having consistent:
Headspace
Neck tension
Chamfer/debur prime pockets
Uniform primer pockets