9mm loads

[LCSportsman]

I have been reloading for years but never pistol. Now with the current prices of 9mm being equal with .45 a few years ago, well it's time to start. I will be doing some IDPA this year so...

What is the recommended brand of powder?

I prefer ball over wafer but it seems powders like Unique seem to do well, on paper anyway.

Thanks

Bob

[Sheldon]

I use a lot of Bullseye and 231.

[eaglemike]

You can use a lot of different powders for 9mm. I prefer powders in the general buring range of Unique or Universal Clays. 231 and Bullseye have been used a lot, but they are faster than I personally like. OAL is pretty important, both for feeding and for pressure control. Seating the bullet towards max OAL usually gives better feeding. The deeper the bullet is seated the higher the pressure will be - this makes sense, right? (please forgive me if you already know this) The pressure change curve is fairly steep in 9mm, and in .40S&W.

122 to 125 grain are pretty commonly used. I've also used a lot of the 135RN, and a bunch of the 147 truncated cone. Bullet size to match the groove diameter of the barrel will help, or .001 inch over. Glocks for instance are .3565 in the examples I've measured. 9mm groove size can vary a fair amount in some guns.

all the best,

Mike

[gravygrabber]

I use Bullseye although it's a little dirty

[LCSportsman]

You can use a lot of different powders for 9mm. I prefer powders in the general buring range of Unique or Universal Clays. 231 and Bullseye have been used a lot, but they are faster than I personally like. OAL is pretty important, both for feeding and for pressure control. Seating the bullet towards max OAL usually gives better feeding. The deeper the bullet is seated the higher the pressure will be - this makes sense, right? (please forgive me if you already know this) The pressure change curve is fairly steep in 9mm, and in .40S&W.

122 to 125 grain are pretty commonly used. I've also used a lot of the 135RN, and a bunch of the 147 truncated cone. Bullet size to match the groove diameter of the barrel will help, or .001 inch over. Glocks for instance are .3565 in the examples I've measured. 9mm groove size can vary a fair amount in some guns.

all the best,

Mike

My Thanks to all of you

Mike:

I had some probs a few yrs ago w/ the 356 diameter 9mm in a Kimber. A bullet stuck in the barrel & scared the , out of me & the S.O. He caught it just before I pulled the trigger... The ammo was stuff I bought not reloaded, they were 38Super not 9mm bullet diameter. I now use a pistol w/ more tolerances but still will measure. Hornady's HAP are 356 not 355.

I will call my pistols manufacture & ask the inside diameter before I start reloading though.

Thanks for the tips!

Bob

[eaglemike]

Bob,

A .001 difference in bullet diameter will not cause it to stick in the barrel. Primer only, or other form of squib, like polluted/oiled powder can cause this.

The size is important when shooting lead. I probably didn't make that clear before. I like to use lead for 9mm, due to cost and availability. I've shot a lot of lead, and jacketed. The used 9mm brass varies a lot, too. It's a lot of fun and cheap to reload.

all the best,

Mike

[mike100]

I've made a bunch of 124gr both in lead truncated cone and regular commercial jacketed bullets. 231 and Unique work well, but I've been meaning to try out some Power Pistol strictly for 9mm as it is supposed to have been (at one time) a factory powder for 9.

I was loading about 4.7 gr unique for 120-ish grain bullets. book max on jacketed was at 4.9 I think. At anyrate, 4.7 Unique on a 124 gr felt like a factory duplication load going by recoil and report.

[rksimple]

Bob,

A .001 difference in bullet diameter will not cause it to stick in the barrel. Primer only, or other form of squib, like polluted/oiled powder can cause this.

The size is important when shooting lead. I probably didn't make that clear before. I like to use lead for 9mm, due to cost and availability. I've shot a lot of lead, and jacketed. The used 9mm brass varies a lot, too. It's a lot of fun and cheap to reload.

all the best,

Mike

This is true. I've sized some 9mm to .358 and not had problems. I'm burning through some 125gr cast with 3.5gr of red dot right now. I have about 16 pounds of it to use up! I get my best results when they're sized 357 though.

[hntnnut]

I've been quite happy with accurate #2, on a side note I would sort your brass and work up loads for each headstamp and pay paticular attention to seating depth as the 9mm can be sensitive to even small load variations case capacity, bullet brand, seating depth.

Richard

[1lostinspace]

I reload rifle as well but have never loaded pistol.
How would you duplicate winchester ranger +P+ ammo? in 9mm

[LCSportsman]

Bob,

A .001 difference in bullet diameter will not cause it to stick in the barrel. Primer only, or other form of squib, like polluted/oiled powder can cause this.

The size is important when shooting lead. I probably didn't make that clear before. I like to use lead for 9mm, due to cost and availability. I've shot a lot of lead, and jacketed. The used 9mm brass varies a lot, too. It's a lot of fun and cheap to reload.

all the best,

Mike

Mike

Thanks again. I forgot the correct term, squib. See how everyone has info from different backgrounds/experience. I was told it was the diameter...

I don't want to use lead in my semi. Revolver is ok. Have you tried plated bullets? XTREME BULLETS out of Carson City, NV. Iam going to load some up soon. I made a mistake & ordered 115's instead of 124's. See how they do. Just not sure what powder to use. Like to run them hot enough to knock over the poppers @ 25yrds.

good shooting

Bob

[LCSportsman]

I've been quite happy with accurate #2, on a side note I would sort your brass and work up loads for each headstamp and pay paticular attention to seating depth as the 9mm can be sensitive to even small load variations case capacity, bullet brand, seating depth.

Richard

Have you tried Accurate #7? I would like to try the ball powder over wafer and this #7 looks good. Lone Pine huh? I went to high school in Rigdecrest.

Best

Bob

[-hanko]

I reload rifle as well but have never loaded pistol.
How would you duplicate winchester ranger +P+ ammo? in 9mm

You're heading toward the edge duplicating +P+; no SAAMI standard exists.

What does Win say as to velocity?? What bullet weight does Win use?

With those answers and a chrono, you can start to play.

Do you know how to see the first signs of overpressure in your reloads?? If not, don't go there.

-hanko

[eaglemike]

Accurate #5 would likely be better than #7, but try to find a load you like. That's the fun! I've found great results with powders not even listed for a specific caliber in the manual. I've had mixed results with plated bullets. Some good, some really bad. Someday, if/when you're ready, give some of the moly-coated lead bullets a try. Bear Creek, Billy Bullets, etc. A properly sized and loaded bullet like this is every bit as good as a plated bullet, sometimes better. The important words are properly sized and loaded. Powder selection would be a little more important.

all the best,

Mike

[eaglemike]

You're heading toward the edge duplicating +P+; no SAAMI standard exists.

What does Win say as to velocity?? What bullet weight does Win use?

With those answers and a chrono, you can start to play.

Do you know how to see the first signs of overpressure in your reloads?? If not, don't go there.

-hanko

What he said ^^^^^^

After some serious time with 9mm, when you've tried a lot of powder and bullet combo's, worked with chrono's, etc - then maybe work up your own load data. One of the chrono makers used to also sell a strain gauge setup. It'd cost a few bucks to come up with a barrel to use, maybe a T/C if there is one in 9mm. IMHO if you want ammo like that, it's be best to buy it.

You might also look at some 9X21 data. I don't know if SAAMI ever came up with a pressure specification for that cartridge.

OAL makes a big difference in pressure!!!

all the best,

Mike