Guys,
Do you find that if you want to apply a roll crimp to a rifle round that you need to have every single piece of brass the exact same length? If I dont, I find that either the crimp isnt applied at all (too short) or the case neck gets bulged outward (too long).
I figure that this is the way it's supposed to be, but when I'm bulk loading .223, brass prep takes forever when all the different brands of brass are different lengths.....if i want the crimp, I have to trim and chamfer each one and set the die depth in the die holder at just the right height. And that's a lot of work for simple practice rounds.
I dunno, does anyone else have a better way of crimping without needing exact length cases? I have the Lee Factory Crimp Die, but I found that I dont like it as much as the roll crimp on rifle rounds....it's a taper crimp and just not as clean, and works the neck of the brass more. I'm thinking there's got to be some sort of "floating point roll crimp" die or something....dont even know how that would work or what it would look like, just that it would apply the roll crimp as soon as the neck comes in contact with the cannelure, regardless of case length.
Any ideas?
Do you find that if you want to apply a roll crimp to a rifle round that you need to have every single piece of brass the exact same length? If I dont, I find that either the crimp isnt applied at all (too short) or the case neck gets bulged outward (too long).
I figure that this is the way it's supposed to be, but when I'm bulk loading .223, brass prep takes forever when all the different brands of brass are different lengths.....if i want the crimp, I have to trim and chamfer each one and set the die depth in the die holder at just the right height. And that's a lot of work for simple practice rounds.
I dunno, does anyone else have a better way of crimping without needing exact length cases? I have the Lee Factory Crimp Die, but I found that I dont like it as much as the roll crimp on rifle rounds....it's a taper crimp and just not as clean, and works the neck of the brass more. I'm thinking there's got to be some sort of "floating point roll crimp" die or something....dont even know how that would work or what it would look like, just that it would apply the roll crimp as soon as the neck comes in contact with the cannelure, regardless of case length.
Any ideas?

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