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Primer Seating Issues

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  • bassboss
    Junior Member
    • Apr 2012
    • 60

    Primer Seating Issues

    I have had a heck of a time trying to get primers properly seated, first for .223 and now for .30-06 (primarily LC brass). I am fairly new to reloading, but the .40s I have loaded seat the primers nice an easy, so that is what I expected for rifle cartridges as well, but I am really having to jam down on the handle to get primers properly seated, if they will seat at all (several won't seat all the way and I am afraid to press any harder for fear of detonating a primer). I am using a universal priming arm and priming on the press-a Lyman T-MAG II. The primers were Winchesters for the .223 and CCIs for the .30-06. I am aware of LC/Federal brass having a tendency to have "collars" (can't remember the proper term) and not seat very easily, but I got a primer pocket reamer, and reamed all the pockets out, yet still had this problem. I am about to just buy a hand-priming tool, like an RCBS type one, but it doesn't make sense that I am having this issue with .223 and .30-06, but not .40s. Maybe the brass just sucks?
  • #2
    joelogic
    Calguns Addict
    • May 2008
    • 6593

    Post a pic of the crimp removed. You probably are not taking enough out. Or buy a Dillon swagger.
    Micro/Mini Reflex Red Dot Sight Mount for the M1, M1a/M14 platform

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    • #3
      SKSer
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2008
      • 1716

      I bought a Phillips head bit and filed the "fins" I guess you would call them so they have a sharper cutting edge and then stick that In my drill press and let it run and just touch the primer pocket there for half a second and it takes the crimp right out , it only cost a buck or two and I've done thousands of cases with the same bit.

      I wanted to get a little more in depth with it, what it does it it not only takes out the crimp but it cuts the edge of the pocket at a 45 degree angle and what that does is allows the primer to ease into the pocket getting tighter as it presses in farther. On another note I wouldnt worry about detonating a primer either cause, not saying it couldnt happen but generally the primer has to be struck at high velocity. I've jacked some primers trying to cram them in (before i made this little tool), even to the poi t where i ripped rims off of cases, and never had a detonation.
      Last edited by SKSer; 08-23-2012, 10:59 AM.

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      • #4
        hk91666
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2009
        • 1945

        You may need a primer pocket uniforming tool.
        "Si Vis Pacem Parabellum"

        NRA Life Member since 1978
        NRA Endowment Member since 2016
        CRPA Life Member 2022

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        • #5
          bohoki
          I need a LIFE!!
          • Jan 2006
          • 20826

          yes the crimp often deforms the whole pocket use a pocket reamer and chamfer the opening

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          • #6
            bassboss
            Junior Member
            • Apr 2012
            • 60

            I will try a uniformer and try chamfering as well...

            I have detonated two primers by pressing them in too hard, that is why I'm a bit gunshy, for lack of a better term. I always wear eye protection, but it'll still make your butthole pucker...

            the brass is all extremely old as well-I got it from my dad and uncle, from when they reloaded in their teens and 20's, in the 60's and 70's, so it's all 40ish years old. I suppose it could be that they all deformed a little bit over time. They were sitting in a fairly hot storage unit for several years of that time.

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            • #7
              TheExiled
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2012
              • 2933

              I use a chamfer tool on my crimped primer brass the first reload, fixed the issues I had right away similar to what you were experiencing.
              Greater love has no one than this: to lay down one's life for one's friends

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              • #8
                Pete1979
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2011
                • 670

                Try the Dillon Super Swage 600 if someone up there has one locally. If not, use your case mouth deburring tool to cut the crimp out. I did that for a long time before I bought the "600".

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