Redding Competition Seating Die

[ExtremeX]

Does anyone have experience with this Die component?

I was watchnig a video, and this being the last step, no crimp was applied.

I was just curious if this is typical when making match ammo? Are .223 and .308 cases ever crimped or is it ok to just seat them?

Link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCNXz9VpwlI

[DJ Skillz]

I'm a reloading noob myself, but from what I've been told (and what I've been doing), rifle rounds are typically not crimped.

[BSlacker]

With auto loading firearms a crimp might be useful but not always needed. The issue is bullet set back. If your rifle runs with little contact between the nose of the bullet and the feed ramps and such it will not need a crimp with this combo bullet/case. Change anything and you will have to evaluate the combo for set back issues. For accurate ammo in bolt guns no crimp is needed. You will have to evaluate your combo. I crimp all semi auto ammo. Mine is plinking ammo and I don't want any issues with set back while shooting evil cans and such.
When I see someone make very accurate rifle ammo on a progressive press, I wonder. Lots more variables in progressive than single stage. Just my guess.

[Darklyte27]

correct, a crimp is mainly for military ammo because it can take abuse in the battlefield so its there to hold the bullet in place.

While you are at a bench shooting in a nice environment shooting match ammo or such doesnt need a crimp.

[Divernhunter]

I do not crimp any of my rifle ammo. Never had a problem. Pistol ammo gets crimped, especially when using H-110 powder.

[CS Sports]

Redding Comp Seaters are purpose built for making match quality ammo. Crimps are detrimental to accuracy, and almost never used if ultimate accuracy is the goal. Therefore it makes little sense to include a crimping function on a die specifically built for producing match grade ammo.

Further, if you look at the way the die is designed, there really isn't a good option to produce a crimp like a traditional seating die.

If a crimp is important to you, it is tough to beat the Lee Factory Crimp die. It's an extra step, but it produces a very nice crimp. I only use one on heavier recoil rounds (375 H&H, 416 Rigby, etc.)

[huckberry668]

I use Redding comp seating dies on all my rifle and most handgun calibers. I like the readily adjustable micrometer. It supports the cases while being seated. It's design to seat rounds with least amount of run-out.

Crimp won't hurt accuracy on bullets with cannelures. Enough crimping will decrease accuracy on match grade bullets without cannelures. I crimp pistol rounds only to remove the bell. No crimp on any of my bottle neck rifle rounds.

[ExtremeX]

Thanks for all the information. I asked because the ammo will be used on a semi-auto platform.

To be a little more specific I would like to try and work up some match type .223 loads for my varmint/target ar-15 using SMK 77gr bullets.

Im now curious if using a product like this would would also help me find a middle ground between plinking ammo of very expensive match ammo. I am reloading on a progressive (RCBS pro 2000) due to volume needs of the .223 round. I don't always need match ammo, but it would be nice to make something a little more accurate than M193 for when I shoot steel at longer distances.

I figure I would need some better brass for high quality match ammo, but since I am using 5.56 nato LC brass for the bulk of my reloading, it would be nice to make something a little more accurate than M193...

Your thoughts?

[Quinc]

I am using the Forester comp and sizing dies for my .223 precision reloads and like it. Have done 55-80gr bullets. No crimp on it either. Also one notch is = to about 0.0115 ish

[GeoffLinder]

The Redding seating die is a great tool for seating, it is not for crimping. Crimping for rifle rounds is best done as a separate station after seating. Use a taper crimp die to do so. Only a little is needed IF you decide to crimp. Crimping is generally not needed with rifle rounds. If your expander ball in the size die is doing it's job correctly the interference fit the bullet gets is plenty enuff to hold the bullet in place even in semi-auto's.

[CS Sports]

The key to creating accurate loads is to make them as consistent and concentric as possible. The Redding die will help with concentricity and consistency of seating depth during the bullet seating operation, but there are many other factors that need to be addressed.

[Darklyte27]

If you arent going in battle, dont crimp.

Thanks for all the information. I asked because the ammo will be used on a semi-auto platform.

To be a little more specific I would like to try and work up some match type .223 loads for my varmint/target ar-15 using SMK 77gr bullets.

Im now curious if using a product like this would would also help me find a middle ground between plinking ammo of very expensive match ammo. I am reloading on a progressive (RCBS pro 2000) due to volume needs of the .223 round. I don't always need match ammo, but it would be nice to make something a little more accurate than M193 for when I shoot steel at longer distances.

I figure I would need some better brass for high quality match ammo, but since I am using 5.56 nato LC brass for the bulk of my reloading, it would be nice to make something a little more accurate than M193...

Your thoughts?

[ExtremeX]

If you arent going in battle, dont crimp.

Oooo I'm going into battle... Fighting the war on crappy groups.

Hopefully I win and my rifle doesn't explode in the process.

[ocabj]

I own both the Forster and the Redding competition micrometer seating dies. Out of the box, the Forster's seater plug is better for VLD style bullets. Also, the Redding's micrometer hash marks / markings are clearer and more defined.

[30Cal]

Thanks for all the information. I asked because the ammo will be used on a semi-auto platform.

To be a little more specific I would like to try and work up some match type .223 loads for my varmint/target ar-15 using SMK 77gr bullets.

Im now curious if using a product like this would would also help me find a middle ground between plinking ammo of very expensive match ammo. I am reloading on a progressive (RCBS pro 2000) due to volume needs of the .223 round. I don't always need match ammo, but it would be nice to make something a little more accurate than M193 for when I shoot steel at longer distances.

I figure I would need some better brass for high quality match ammo, but since I am using 5.56 nato LC brass for the bulk of my reloading, it would be nice to make something a little more accurate than M193...

Your thoughts?

Bullet, powder and primer choice are where you going to get accuracy. Dies, brass prep and scale work are just barely above the noise and any benefit will be difficult to measure on a target.