Reloading .357 (or .38)

[coreymcdonald855]

Here's the story:

I bought a used GP100 less than two months ago and my wife is already fed up with the money I'm spending at the range. I only go every other week and put 200 factory reloads downrange at the most. I intend to work up to once a week with the same number of rounds. So I have convinced her, somehow, to let me invest in reloading. Here's the problem: I have never reloaded before and I'm lost. I bought "The ABCs of Reloading" and I got some insight, enough to skim the surface of understanding (not that reloading is a terribly hard concept, but it is a science). So, here are my questions:

1. The press - I have read several hundred different reviews on both RCBS and Lee, and right now it looks like Lee will be the one. I am thinking of going with the 50th anniversary kit (unless someone talks me out of it), basically because it's cheap and it has most of the stuff I need. Without making this thread a warzone, could someone tell me if this kit will be sufficient for reloading 200 rounds a week? And if not, why and what should I look at?

2. The dies - I've read Lee and RCBS are interchangable, but that RCBS has better quality and better customer service. Any other opinions?

3. Tumbler/Vibrator - I haven't even had a chance to look, but I know it is highly recommended to get one. Should I go with a tumbler or a vibrator?

4. Load data - Because I am only loading for the GP100, I intend to buy Lyman's Popular Revolver. I will get new load data as needed. Any expertise on this topic would be great. I would even take personal preference. I need a recipe for plinking and for HD.

5. Brass/Bullets/Powder/Primer - I hate to roll all of that up into one, but I have no idea what combination I'll be shooting, so in general, where is a good place to buy? I don't want to get ripped off too badly. Also, some guys at work that claim to reload quite a bit recommended I buy factory reloads at the range and keep the brass. Is this a good idea?

6. Everything else - I'm positive I left out plenty, just as I'm positive I barely have a clue what I'm talking about. I can't wait to get started and I eagerly await all the advice I'm sure is headed my way. Also, I hope to see you guys on March 10th. I'll be wandering around trying to find good deals on equipment at Del Mar.

7. .357 vs .38 - Which should I load? I keep .357 in the house, but I have shot .38 and .357 back to back and I don't feel much of a difference. Also, do .38 dies work on .357 or do .357 dies work on .38? I read that somewhere in my studies.

Thanks, CG!

[Bill Steele]

1) Depends on how muich time per week you are willing to spend loading the 200 rounds. On a single stage figure a coupe hours a week all in for that number. A Lee Classic Turret will cut that time in half (1 hour = 200 rounds).

2) The Lee deluxe dies will work great.

3) Get a Berry's tumbler (google Berry's Plated Bullets).

4) Get the Lee 2nd Edition reloading manual and you will have all the load data you will ever need. You can also go on the powder manufacturers web site and get specific load data for bullet weight/type etc.

5) Buy your powder and primers online from Powder Valley inc. Start with some Berry's Plated Bullets, same site as the tumbler.

7) .38 brass is easier to come by and will work fine for range use. Load to .38 spl data. It will be a little miore work cleaning the cylinder (the short cases leave more soot in the cyliner). Starline (mfg. online store) is the best place to buy new .357 brass.

Good luck, have fun.

[foesgth]

What he said...

Mr. Bill got it right! For powder I would say use Bullseye or HP38 to start. 38spl is one of the best 1st cartridges to load.

[Quinc]

I just started reloading for my GP100 6" too. So far if i had to do it all over again and was just loading one pistol caliber I would get the lee pro 1000. For 150$ or 130$ if they have them in the 2nds area of lees site. You will have 99% of what you need and can easily pump out 200rds in a few minutes. For bullets the best deal i have found is Berry's website. Buy 100$ worth and you get free shipping. They are also about 25% cheaper then cabelas.

[noylj]

1. The press - I have read several hundred different reviews on both RCBS and Lee, and right now it looks like Lee will be the one. I am thinking of going with the 50th anniversary kit (unless someone talks me out of it), basically because it's cheap and it has most of the stuff I need. Without making this thread a warzone, could someone tell me if this kit will be sufficient for reloading 200 rounds a week? And if not, why and what should I look at?
Yes. I will warn you that many people are unhappy with the Safety Beam Balance and the Perfect Powder Measure. Both are as good as the competition, but they are not as robust or as easy to use. The PPM needs to be set-up with paper below it to pick up any powder that leaks out. This leakage has no effect on the charge weight thrown. You can increase the tension to eliminate/minimize the leakage, but only after you clean out the measure. You need to work at least one hopper full of "graphitized" powder to coat the insides with graphite. Some simply buy some powdered graphite and feed it through a couple of times.
You need to practice with the Safety Balance to get used to reading it. Like most beam balances, it is light and easily moved--thus throwing off your zero. I have preferred digital balances since the late '70s. If you want a really good and easy to use beam, get the RCBS 1010 (I believe). I would look at the classic turret press as a "better" option. Then again, you can order the Lee "Reloading Press" (about $35), Richard Lee's manual, and a set of Lee dies. The Lee dies come with the shell holder and a dipper. The manual references what bullet weights and powder combinations that the dipper works with. You can't get cheaper or simpler than this and the loads will work just fine--you can't get enough powder in the dipper to create a dangerous load.

2. The dies - I've read Lee and RCBS are interchangeable, but that RCBS has better quality and better customer service. Any other opinions?
I prefer Lee and Hornady dies. For the money, Lee can't be beat. If you want "the best" dies, look to Redding (although they do not load any more accurate ammunition). You will also want to buy a taper crimp die for semi-auto ammunition. The Lee 4-die set has the crimp die included and it is excellent (unless you load over-sized lead bullet (say, 0.358" lead bullets instead of 0.355" jacketed bullets--in which case, the "post-sizing" operation can swage the lead bullet down. I see no advantage to RCBS dies. Buy Lee or Hornady New Dimension dies. The Hornady dies come with an excellent expander die.

3. Tumbler/Vibrator - I haven't even had a chance to look, but I know it is highly recommended to get one. Should I go with a tumbler or a vibrator?
You should start by simply wiping the exterior of the cases to remove any grit that could get embedded in the case during sizing. Case cleaning is the least important and the most worried over operation. Check your manuals (have at least three and read them--Lyman #49, "ABC's or Reloading", and the Lee, Hornady, Speer, or other manual). You will see that case preparation for pistols in NOT of any significance or worry. I tumble lube in a real tumbler with 20/40 corn for about 30 minutes. This is WAY more cleaning than needed. Everything beyond that is for ego stroking. If you simply can't stand to see a black case interior or black in the primer pocket, you can go with wet tumbling and stainless steel pins or ultrasonic cleaning. I have a small ultrasonic cleaner that is big enough for all the cases I bring back from the range. Cleaning with a squirt of Dawn dishwashing detergent and a little citric acid will completely clean the cases (though it doesn't polish). If you want "the best," I suppose the SS pins would be the way to go. Again, it is all a waste of time if all you care about is ammunition that is accurate and functional.

4. Load data - Because I am only loading for the GP100, I intend to buy Lyman's Popular Revolver. I will get new load data as needed. Any expertise on this topic would be great. I would even take personal preference. I need a recipe for plinking and for HD.
You only THINK that all you will reload is for your revolver. You don't need any one's personal loads. The odds of them being as good in your gun is small. Look at the powder manuafacturer's web site for load data. If you want accurate .357 Magnum loads, look to 2400 powder. If you want accurate, light target loads, look to TrailBoss, AA2 or AA5. If you want mid-range loads, look to powders in the burning range of AA5 to Sihouette.

5. Brass/Bullets/Powder/Primer - I hate to roll all of that up into one, but I have no idea what combination I'll be shooting, so in general, where is a good place to buy? I don't want to get ripped off too badly. Also, some guys at work that claim to reload quite a bit recommended I buy factory reloads at the range and keep the brass. Is this a good idea?
For jacketed bullets, buy in bulk from Montana Gold or Zero Bullets. For cast lead bullets, buy in bulk from MasterCastBullets.com, Missouri Bullets, or Penn Bullets. Powder Valley has very good prices for Zero Bullets and Missouri Bullets--along with powder and primers. If you just want to try 100 bullets, 1000 primers, or 1 lb of powder, buy from your local gun store. There are several sources of once-fired cases on the net. If you want to buy virgin brass of the highest quality for less than the "big boys," look to Starline and buy 500 to 1000 case or whatever your "needs" are. I don't shoot plated because they cost as much as really great jacketed bullets. Read about how to determine the size of bullet you need for cast lead.

6. Everything else - I'm positive I left out plenty, just as I'm positive I barely have a clue what I'm talking about. I can't wait to get started and I eagerly await all the advice I'm sure is headed my way. Also, I hope to see you guys on March 10th. I'll be wandering around trying to find good deals on equipment at Del Mar.

7. .357 vs .38 - Which should I load? I keep .357 in the house, but I have shot .38 and .357 back to back and I don't feel much of a difference. Also, do .38 dies work on .357 or do .357 dies work on .38? I read that somewhere in my studies.
In my .357 revolvers, I load .357 Magnum cases. I load down to 750 fps for light target loads for 25-50yd target shooting and load higher when I want some power. In most applications, 800-900fps is all the power you need for enjoyment. Save the full magnum loads for hunting, S/D practice, etc. Anything a .38 Special can do, your .357 Magnum can do and more.
You will be using a roll crimp for .38 Special and .357 Magnum (so you don't need a taper crimp die, yet) You will want to buy the Lee case trimmer to trim all cases to same length. The "problem" is that all pistol cases are too short and they don't grow. Thus, you may want to get a small lathe-type trimmer (see Forster, Wilson, RCBS, Hornady and many others) since many cases may be shorter than the "trim-to-length" that the Lee trimmer is made for. I would get a roll crimp die to separate out the bullet seating from crimping, though you can do both operations with just the seating die.
You also may want to use the Lee Auto-Primer (?) to hand primer your cases. Priming on the case can be problematic unless using a progressive press. When I load on a single stage press, I use a bench mounted powder measure. After throwing the charge, I inspect the height of the charge to be sure is looks right, and immediately seat a bullet on the charged case. I had a "tray" of charged cases get spilled back in the early '70s and haven't used a loading tray since.
One other comment, that goes back to case cleaning: Don't make reloading more complicated than it is. It isn't rocket science and should be an enjoyable hobby.

[chiefnpd]

chiefnpd

I have been loading several different calibers for years. I have a gp100 and I shoot, for plinking, 38 special. I used hp38 and found it to be a bit smokey but none the less good. Recently I started using trail boss, it's great and quite safe. I would suggest you using trail boss, and take you time.

[Cowboy T]

I just started reloading for my GP100 6" too. So far if i had to do it all over again and was just loading one pistol caliber I would get the lee pro 1000. For 150$ or 130$ if they have them in the 2nds area of lees site. You will have 99% of what you need and can easily pump out 200rds in a few minutes.

For someone who already has some reloading experience, I agree heartily with this. However, the OP's a newbie, so I tend to recommend an inexpensive single-stage press and a hand-primer tool to new reloaders, so that they really learn what's going on. The progressive presses can come later if they wish. And should they go progressive later on, that single-stage won't go to waste, at least if my own reloading habits are any clue. Lee's cheapie $30 "Lee Reloader Press" is perfect for this.

I say this as the proud owner of two Pro 1000's that get a whole lot of use.

In single-stage mode, I can typically do about 50 rounds per hour, dipping and weighing each and every charge. If I use a powder measure, it's 100 rounds/hour, so in a couple of hours, yes, one can do your 200 for the week. The first box might take...umm...considerably longer than that, though. :-)

Also gotta agree with Bill Steele on the Classic Turret Press's merits. I do like that press.

[bruceflinch]

[QUOTE4. Load data - Because I am only loading for the GP100, I intend to buy Lyman's Popular Revolver. I will get new load data as needed. Any expertise on this topic would be great. I would even take personal preference. I need a recipe for plinking and for HD.

7. .357 vs .38 - Which should I load? I keep .357 in the house, but I have shot .38 and .357 back to back and I don't feel much of a difference. Also, do .38 dies work on .357 or do .357 dies work on .38? I read that somewhere in my studies.

Thanks, CG![/QUOTE]

Good Choice for a revolver!

Due to possible Liability issues, do not use Handloads for HD. Use Factory Hollowpoints. You'll only need one box for the rest of your life.

38/357 Dies are the same. Just set up differently to allow for the case length.

If you couldn't tell much difference between .357 & .38, then you must have had some HOT .38's & WIMPY .357's.

For your loading purposes, the rest of the advice given here is spot on.

Good Luck!

[coreymcdonald855]

Thank you for all the advice, gents. I am slowly but surely seeing what I need to make this happen. Now I just need to get rid of some expensive electronics I don't use anymore and I'll be in business. Also, thank you for the info on the Pro 1000. I will file that for future reference.

[dexter9659]

I shoot Unique in .38 simply because it is a cheap and forgiving powder.

[coreymcdonald855]

Any problem using Berry's Hard Cast?

[twoforme2]

Everything has about been covered here, but one word of advice, if possible go watch/talk to someone that reloads. If they reload 38/357 even better! I think for the most part those that reload are happy to show others how to do it.
You can read a book over and over, and they are truely correct in how you do it, but seeing/doing it while supervised by someone with experience is even better.
I don't know where you are, but I would imagine there has got to be someone somewhere near you that would help with that.

[Bill Steele]

Berry's would not be my first choice for lead.

Any problem using Berry's Hard Cast?

No problem, but if you are going to load lead, these guys have as good a product (better IMO for SNS) and they are less expensive:

http://shop.snscasting.com/38SPL-357MAG_c9.htm

http://www.missouribullet.com/results.php?category=5&secondary=9

Good luck, have fun.

[coreymcdonald855]

Good stuff, guys! I will let you all know what I end up with in a few weeks.

[HKMadness]

Always wear safety glasses or a faceshield when in the vicinity of primers and powder. Primers are subject to spontaneous detonation when handling (possible, not so probable) so keep that in mind.

You can't go wrong with a lee press. I started on a lct back in 2005 with .223 and now have it as well as two pro 1000's. Dont go with a progressive press until you have more experience with single stage or turret modes. Too much to watch and you risk loading dangerous overloads.

.38 dies will do .357, all you have to do is back the expander and seating/crimp dies out 1-7/8 turns. I mark them with a marker at .38 settings, then just back them out. .38 sizing die needs no adjustment to do .357. .357 dies WILL NOT do .38

When setting you seat/crimp die, set the crimp first, then once set, adjust your depth, then fine tune both. Give the rounds a nice roll crimp right into the groove of the boolit.