Read my book, more ?'s

[erik_26]

Ok, I read the Lymans 49th edition.

Some concerns, several people talk about scoring brass at the range on here. But in the book it specifically says not to reload brass found on the range. How much risk is there in picking up range brass?

The load data only shows 180gr JHP. I am using moly coated 180gr Flat Nose. So can I still start with the min load data an work up?

Case trimming, I am starting with pistol rounds. I didn't think case trimming was needed on pistol rounds. So far all of the brass I have is well below the max. And the book even says without saying that if you have to trim the brass is probably no good. So what gives?

Inspecting brass. How many inspect before cleaning? The book says to inspect then clean then inspect. Do you guys go over everything with a fine tooth comb?

[cgates]

pistol brass....dont worry about it to much.

if you are handling each piece you are inspecting it pretty well by default IMO - ie if the case is split, you will know when you pick it up and definitely when you pull the handle to resize and are met with no resistance. If the primer pockets are too big, you will know when you see the new primer fall out.

trimming....I have never had to trim a piece of straight walled pistol brass....ever.

I have never had a problem with any range brass I have loaded....but then again I am not doing max loads with it - its all for fun/practice, etc.

[wtkaiser]

If you are looking for REAL accuracy, you will want to separate cases based on make and weight at least. You will want to know how many times they've been reloaded. With scrounge brass, you can't do that easily or at all.

Yes.

Trimming is only necessary if you exceed the max. If, however, you are after CONSISTENT reloads, then trimming to a standard size is necessary to got the same crimp, if you are using one.

I inspect after my cases come of of the tumbler. If I find I have just tumbled a ruptured case, I throw it out at that time. If working the case through the dies ruptures or splits it, I usually get powder all over my desk and I find it that way. No need to inspect a second time.

Having said all that, a lot of what you ask is going to depend on your reason for shooting. If you are going for bullseye accuracy, you may take the time to check our cases more closely.

[erik_26]

cgates and wtkaiser, thanks for confirming what I thought.


How about load data? Everything is for JHP and I have flat nose molly coated lead. Can I safely start with the min for the JHP and work up?

[CSACANNONEER]

Never reload any brass you pick up at a range. All of it should be sent to me for proper disposal.

[john16443]

How about load data? Everything is for JHP and I have flat nose molly coated lead. Can I safely start with the min for the JHP and work up?

What caliber, 40 S&W? Your Lyman 49th should have data for lead bullets in that weight, I'd start with the lead data for the moly coated bullets. Or very carefully work up from the lowest point of the JHP data being very cognizant of the probable difference in seating depth of your bullet compared to the JHP listed.

[Bill Steele]

...How about load data? Everything is for JHP and I have flat nose molly coated lead. Can I safely start with the min for the JHP and work up?

I pick up brass and use it all the time. I have never had a problem with range pickups.

If you get to the point of loading revolver rounds and you want to get your crimps consistent, then trimming to a consistent length will help a lot.

On the load data, that is why so many people recommend having more than one book. The Lee 2nd edition has the most load data I have found in a single book.

I would be glad to check my Lee book for specific load data for your bullets, if you post what powder you are loading. Lee has load specs for 180gr lead for Bullseye, Power Pistol and Unique.

You may be able to get away using start levels of jacketed data with your lead bullets, but it is not ideal. Lead load levels are usually lower than jacketed in many calibers. I would look around the web some for 180gr lead data before using jacketed start levels. Check the manufacturers web site for load data for 180gr lead, maybe they have some posted.

On handloads.com, the best loads will list start as well as their recommended load level and will list velocities. I would not use a handloads.com spec that doesn't have these elements.

Always have two sources that agree before launching off a given load.

[r3dn3ck]

anyone at the range that reloads (and thus is using used brass) will almost certainly gather their spent cases. Anything else left over will normally be steel (garbage) or once fired. If it's shiny, pick it up. If it's squished, don't.

if you run lead too hot you'll have bad results and increased leading of the barrel. I'd look for loading data for lead bullets. My speer book has specific pages for lead bullets in most pistol cals as separate from jacketed load data. I noticed that the lead bullet data is pretty soft on the max loads.

I use .45acp 200gn moly coated lead SWC's and find that loads looking for about 800fps max are the best grouping and shoot real soft. When I load jacketed they're typically business rounds or training rounds which get more stoutly loaded. Target rounds I load pretty soft.

Always have two sources that agree before launching off a given load.

[erik_26]

Never reload any brass you pick up at a range. All of it should be sent to me for proper disposal.

I will be sure to do so.

[erik_26]

I pick up brass and use it all the time. I have never had a problem with range pickups.

If you get to the point of loading revolver rounds and you want to get your crimps consistent, then trimming to a consistent length will help a lot.

On the load data, that is why so many people recommend having more than one book. The Lee 2nd edition has the most load data I have found in a single book.

I would be glad to check my Lee book for specific load data for your bullets, if you post what powder you are loading. Lee has load specs for 180gr lead for Bullseye, Power Pistol and Unique.

You may be able to get away using start levels of jacketed data with your lead bullets, but it is not ideal. Lead load levels are usually lower than jacketed in many calibers. I would look around the web some for 180gr lead data before using jacketed start levels. Check the manufacturers web site for load data for 180gr lead, maybe they have some posted.

On handloads.com, the best loads will list start as well as their recommended load level and will list velocities. I would not use a handloads.com spec that doesn't have these elements.

Always have two sources that agree before launching off a given load.

Bill, you have been very helpful. You are like the 'Librarian' of the Reload thread.

I am reloading .40 S&W.

I have mixed brass (mostly Federal & Winchester, with some blazer, remington... etc.)

Bear Creek Supply Molly Coated Flat Nose lead bullets

Winchester WSP primers

and Alliant Unique smokeless powder.

Thanks Bill! I really appreciate your help and respect your opinion. I will order a Lee book as well.

[erik_26]

anyone at the range that reloads (and thus is using used brass) will almost certainly gather their spent cases. Anything else left over will normally be steel (garbage) or once fired. If it's shiny, pick it up. If it's squished, don't.

if you run lead too hot you'll have bad results and increased leading of the barrel. I'd look for loading data for lead bullets. My speer book has specific pages for lead bullets in most pistol cals as separate from jacketed load data. I noticed that the lead bullet data is pretty soft on the max loads.

I use .45acp 200gn moly coated lead SWC's and find that loads looking for about 800fps max are the best grouping and shoot real soft. When I load jacketed they're typically business rounds or training rounds which get more stoutly loaded. Target rounds I load pretty soft.

I have read that too. So far from what I have learned (and please correct me if I am wrong) is that molly coated lead is cheaper, and cleaner if you don't try to max it out.

I have also read they can tend to smoke like a freight train. I am hoping with the Unique smokeless powder it wont be so bad.

[Bill Steele]

...and Alliant Unique smokeless powder...

Thanks for the compliment, but there are a lot of guys on this forum that have forgotten more than I will likely ever learn. It is a fun hobby, we all just want everyone to have as much fun as we are having.

To give you a head start while waiting for the UPS guy, my Lee 2nd edition lists Unique for 180gr lead at a start level of 5.2grs for 919fps and a max at 5.5gr at 5.5gr for 973fps. The minimum OAL for that load was listed at 1.125.

The OAL is where it gets tricky when using a FP bullet as it will be shorter than a round nose for a given seating depth, the shoulder may interfere at the mOAL spec'ed.

I would try starting with this minimum, make up a dummy and see if the round will chamber at that OAL. If it will, then you are jake. If not, seat it until it will chamber and use a start load level maybe a few tenths below the listed start for the first ten or so and work up very slowly in .2gr increments watching for over pressure signs.

I learned from Chief-7700 a great tip, to load a single first for each new batch. That way you don't have a magazine full of live ones if something wasn't right.

Have fun, good luck.

[erik_26]

Note: the closest load data I can find in my book is


175 gr. (#2 Alloy) 1.125" OAL

Unique 4.8 (sugg starting Grains), 5.8 (max grains).

[erik_26]

Thanks for the compliment, but there are a lot of guys on this forum that have forgotten more than I will likely ever learn. It is a fun hobby, we all just want everyone to have as much fun as we are having.

To give you a head start while waiting for the UPS guy, my Lee 2nd edition lists Unique for 180gr lead at a start level of 5.2grs for 919fps and a max at 5.5gr at 5.5gr for 973fps. The minimum OAL for that load was listed at 1.125.

The OAL is where it gets tricky when using a FP bullet as it will be shorter than a round nose for a given seating depth, hence you may end up having to go below this minimum OAL to get a round that chambers.

I would try starting with this minimum, make up a dummy and see if the round will chamber at that OAL. If it will, then you are jake. If not, seat it until it will chamber and use a start load level maybe a few tenths below the listed start for the first ten or so and work up very slowly in .2gr increments watching for over pressure signs.

I learned from Chief-7700 a great tip, to load a single first for each new batch. That way you don't have a magazine full of live ones if something goes wrong.

Have fun, good luck.

Thanks!

[john16443]

I have read that too. So far from what I have learned (and please correct me if I am wrong) is that molly coated lead is cheaper, and cleaner if you don't try to max it out.

I have also read they can tend to smoke like a freight train. I am hoping with the Unique smokeless powder it wont be so bad.

Yes, moly and coated bullets (I really like precisionbullets.com) are cheaper and will not smoke as much as lead bullets. It's normally the bullet lube that smokes the most, not the powder.

Unique is famous for being on the smokier side of things as far as burning cleanliness, even their newest clean burning formula. Your load amount will have an affect on the smokiness of Unique, typically lower loads, more smoke.