Made the leap into a progressive

[Bert Gamble]

Yep. I ordered a Hornaday L-N-L AP this morning and it will arrive at my house on the 16th.

I did the single stage for a while, but it just takes too freaking long. I hope I learned enough with the Rock Chucker Supreme to make make the transition to progressive easier.

Will report back once I have it set up.

[damndave]

Loading on a progressive is SUPER fast compared to a single stage. Both have their places on the bench though. You will find yourself using both.

Since you are already familiar with reloading, you should have no problems. Don't forget to get your caliber specific shellplates and extra die bushings.

[XDRoX]

Congrats.

[Bill Steele]

Congratulations, you got a nice press.

Now the frustrations of how slow the production rate was will give way to the frustration of finding a crimped primer pocket jamming the works! Also, the invoices for components are going to get a lot bigger, the consolation is you won't be thinking about the hazmat portion of those invoices much anymore.

The good news is you will go from 50-100 an hour to 300-500 an hour. When that seems too slow, you can add a case feeder and bullet feeder and become the neighbrhood representative to SAAMI.

Have fun, good luck.

[Dark Mod]

Nicely done! dont forget to use a dryer sheet on your powder measure, it will save you quite a bit of trouble

[morrow]

Welcome to the progressive reloading club

[Lead Waster]

Watch out for those dastardly small pistol primer .45 ACP!

Before I started sorting them out beforehand, I would be cruising along, hitting my reloading stride when WHAM! Stupid small pistol primered .45 case would decap and then not prime, and I'd have to remove it and go one cycle with an empty station. GRRR!

[21SF]

Watch out for those dastardly small pistol primer .45 ACP!

Before I started sorting them out beforehand, I would be cruising along, hitting my reloading stride when WHAM! Stupid small pistol primered .45 case would decap and then not prime, and I'd have to remove it and go one cycle with an empty station. GRRR!

For real damn Blazer and federal!!!!!!

But, OP, thats along time for shipping .....

[Munk]

Watch out for those dastardly small pistol primer .45 ACP!

Before I started sorting them out beforehand, I would be cruising along, hitting my reloading stride when WHAM! Stupid small pistol primered .45 case would decap and then not prime, and I'd have to remove it and go one cycle with an empty station. GRRR!

The advantages of inspecting your cases before loading.

This is still a valid concern. Be especially wary if you buy bulk used brass. If I get a .45 i'll be glad i've seen all the stories here of people who keep running into the disparity of cases.

I'm not aware of any other calibers that have this issue. Are there any?

[Endofcomment]

I have heard the press has a few bugs with .25ACP. My only peeve with it is the powder measure having such rough castings and then being powder coated it tends to hold powder when trying to change it, my remedy was to sand down and polish the inside which I haven't tested yet.

[rsrocket1]

Before you start, make sure you already have:
1. A primer flipper tray. Or very small fingers to flip the primers flat side up on a table yourself before you pick them up with the primer pick up tube.
2. A can of Hornady One Shot Dry Gun Lube (not the One Shot Case lube) or car brake cleaner (stinky) or some other degreaser. Be sure to disassemble and degrease the powder drop parts or the powder will stick to the packing grease and mess up your charges.
3. A grease gun with a zerk fitting. You must lube the LnL AP and spraying it with lube is not enough, you must inject grease into the fittings. The grease in the fittings will last a very long time and is a good design. $10 at Harbor Freight or Walmart.

As I've said, a new LnL requires these and ought to include them even if they have to raise the price by $10-$20.

Watch the videos (YouTube or the Hornady media website) several times before you assemble and you should have no problem getting it up and running. I found the videos much better than the instruction book.

It's great to go out to the reloading room and spend a leisurely 20 minutes and come out with a box of 100 loaded bullets.

[Bert Gamble]

Before you start, make sure you already have:
1. A primer flipper tray. Or very small fingers to flip the primers flat side up on a table yourself before you pick them up with the primer pick up tube.
2. A can of Hornady One Shot Dry Gun Lube (not the One Shot Case lube) or car brake cleaner (stinky) or some other degreaser. Be sure to disassemble and degrease the powder drop parts or the powder will stick to the packing grease and mess up your charges.
3. A grease gun with a zerk fitting. You must lube the LnL AP and spraying it with lube is not enough, you must inject grease into the fittings. The grease in the fittings will last a very long time and is a good design. $10 at Harbor Freight or Walmart.

As I've said, a new LnL requires these and ought to include them even if they have to raise the price by $10-$20.

Watch the videos (YouTube or the Hornady media website) several times before you assemble and you should have no problem getting it up and running. I found the videos much better than the instruction book.

It's great to go out to the reloading room and spend a leisurely 20 minutes and come out with a box of 100 loaded bullets.

Thanks for the good advice.

[Clownpuncher]

Before you start, make sure you already have:
1. A primer flipper tray. Or very small fingers to flip the primers flat side up on a table yourself before you pick them up with the primer pick up tube.
2. A can of Hornady One Shot Dry Gun Lube (not the One Shot Case lube) or car brake cleaner (stinky) or some other degreaser. Be sure to disassemble and degrease the powder drop parts or the powder will stick to the packing grease and mess up your charges.
3. A grease gun with a zerk fitting. You must lube the LnL AP and spraying it with lube is not enough, you must inject grease into the fittings. The grease in the fittings will last a very long time and is a good design. $10 at Harbor Freight or Walmart.

As I've said, a new LnL requires these and ought to include them even if they have to raise the price by $10-$20.

Watch the videos (YouTube or the Hornady media website) several times before you assemble and you should have no problem getting it up and running. I found the videos much better than the instruction book.

It's great to go out to the reloading room and spend a leisurely 20 minutes and come out with a box of 100 loaded bullets.

^^^^ This.
And inspect your press while you are setting it up, I had a few issues with mine.

I would also recommend an additional primer pick up tube or two. I got 2 extra small ones because that is what I load most of and it makes life nice. I put 100 in the press then load all 3 tubes up and I don't have to stop pressing bullets (except to drop more primers) until I've gone through 400.

And I also recommend getting an extra set of feed pawls, an extra primer slide spring, drive hub, and an extra shell plate spring. No hurry as you hopefully won't break any right away so you can just get it the next time you order something so you don't pay shipping. The total cost of the parts is about $20. Yes, if they were to break Hornady would/will replace them but every time I have had an issue with my press it has been around a holiday weekend and it takes at least a week to get them plus the holiday time. It would have been nice to have the parts on hand, especially since no one around me sells them.

Enjoy your press, and be prepared to start itching for the case feeder.

[Lead Waster]

You learn something new everyday! "Zerk Fitting!"

Does the L n L use zerk fittings?

Oh back on topic. My RCBS primer flipper tray is great for flipping primers, but I've noticed that since it accommodates small and large primers and it is made for flipping primers upon shaking, that it's not great for "turning over primers" without moving them.
So when I take my nicely spaced winchester primer plastic tray and flip the primers onto the tray, they are nicely spaced and easy to pick up BUT they are pointed the wrong direction, if I put the flipper lid on the the tray and invert it, it inverts the primers, but the primers are no longer evenly spaced in a nice grid, they are all bunched up on one side of the tray, making it annoying to pick up.

What is the point of this rant? It's a tip that if you use a different flat piece of plastic or something INSTEAD of the flipper tray lid to invert your primers, they will stay in a nicely spaced grid (like they were in a winchester primer box). If you use the flipper lid to invert, the primers will be bunched up and harder to pick up.

This won't make sense until you do it and then you'll know what I'm talking about.

[milotrain]

I just found an ICC case that looked to have a small pistol primer. I keep mine separated but I hang onto them. I shoot nothing else with LPP so when I just want to run some plinking .45s I load them up with the SPP brass.