So for Christmas the girlfriend bought me a Lee Classic Turret press kit from Kempf Gun shop. I mentioned to a friend that I got it, and he said "I inherited some reloading stuff, want to take a look?" So he gave me a Lee single stage press and a scale and various other nick nacks. I read The ABCs of Reloading twice, set everything up and followed the specification for loading my .40 S&W ammo. I have yet to shoot it because, to be honest, I am a little nervous. Anyone else reload for .40 that has any information they want to share, like tips or tricks?
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I reload 40 for my son's 23, using Berry's 155gr and 4.3gr of WST works great.
I would say the best tip is start low and work the loads up. I have found in Handgun plinking loads low to mid are the best loads. -
Thanks for the advice! I ended up with Blue Dot as it was the only thing in my Hornady book that they had in stock, along with 180 gr Hornady HP-XTP and CCI primers. I am starting with the minimum load from the Hornady book. I was reading that the seating of the bullet by just a fraction of an inch can dramatically increase pressures. What is the overall length on a finished bullet that you use?Comment
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I use what's in the book for the bullet profile I am loading.Thanks for the advice! I ended up with Blue Dot as it was the only thing in my Hornady book that they had in stock, along with 180 gr Hornady HP-XTP and CCI primers. I am starting with the minimum load from the Hornady book. I was reading that the seating of the bullet by just a fraction of an inch can dramatically increase pressures. What is the overall length on a finished bullet that you use?
I load handgun loads the same as shotgun (I use what's in the book and I don't change it much)
rifle on the other hand I play with a little (easier to look for problems when working up loads)Comment
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Just go slow and pay attention until you get the hang of things. It's really not that hard once you get past the "oh man i'm loading my own ammo". IT's a great hobby and it let you shoot more often with better accuracy!The stuff that goes boom.
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Some calibers are more sensitive to OAL than others. 40S&W is a high pressure round, so you definitely want to observe the Minimum OAL that comes with any load spec you choose. There is nothing wrong with loading it longer than the OAL spec in the load data, as long as the rounds chamber, feed and fit in your magazine.
Good luck, have fun.When asked what qualities he most valued in his generals, Napoleon said, "give me lucky ones."Comment
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So the OAL in the book is 1.125. So if I were to be a little over that it would be ok? Like say 1.130? I measured some Winchester factory loads and they were 1.122 and I tried to get pretty close to that.Comment
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Yes, longer is fine, shorter than the OAL specified in the load spec means you are developing your own load as it was not tested shorter.When asked what qualities he most valued in his generals, Napoleon said, "give me lucky ones."Comment
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The LEE classic turret press is great. It is very simple and loads at a nice pace. Only make a few rounds at firat and shoot those. That way you can start at the low end and not have to pull a bunch of bullets if they are to light. Once you are sure that you will load enough then buy your supplies in bulk or get in on a Local calguns group buy if one is offered in you area.CALGUNS DICTIONARY "FLIER": when a shooter wants to turn a 1 inch group to a half inch group because he flinched.Comment
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Well, I shot about 25 reloads today and they worked great! As good as factory ammo. I have to admit that first shot made me cringe, but after that it was great.Comment
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I can not stress enough the necessity to never let your guard down. Always make sure, especailly when shooting reloads, that something comes out the business end of the gun. If you forget the powder, get a squib, yikes.NRA Life Member
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"If you've got a problem with the US, you better make sure it's not a military problem." SSgt Leslie EdwardsComment
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Will do. I like the Blue Dot powder I got because a double charge would put so much powder in the bullet wouldn't seat I don't think.Comment
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I totally agree.
Depending on where you shoot, you likely will not even hear when you have your first "no powder" squib. It will just seem like a light primer strike or bad primer. The gun will not have cycled (i.e. in a semi, for revolvers, if you are lucky, you will just have a jammed action with a bullet stuck in the gap, emphasis on "if you are lucky").
When shooting your reloads, the "Tap and Rack" drill is not your friend.
Kind of like reloading itself, if anything out of the ordinary happens while shooting your reloads, stop, unload and check to make sure that barrel is clear. Some day, you will be glad you made that "squib rod" and put it in your range bag.
It is great you started with a less dense powder that will be apparent if you get yourself in a double charge situation.
I made the decision the other day that when I am done with my current 8lb bottle of Bullseye, I am switching to something less dense for my .45ACP. My Dillon 550B does not auto index, so as confident as I am in my procedure of looking into each case before setting the bullet, it is not a "zero defects" production design. Using a powder that overflows the case if a double charge happens, turns my setup into a zero defects process. I want zero defects.
You had a good start to your reloading, keep it going.
Have fun, good luck.When asked what qualities he most valued in his generals, Napoleon said, "give me lucky ones."Comment
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I've loaded on a single stage press for years. I use a loading block and after charging I always visually check the powder level in all the cases. My set up is close to my door so I just step outside and use good old sunshine, but a flashlight would work also. My advice is to buy a hand priming tool. I use lee and rcbs varieties. A hand priming tool give you much more feel for seating primers.Comment
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