Ready to load some .223 -- what next?

[xrMike]

My rifle: AR with 20-inch barrel and 1:7 twist
Brass: once-fired Remington, already cleaned, full-length sized, trimmed to length, chamfered, and primed
Powder: Ramshot TAC
Bullets: 69gr Nosler BTHP
Scale: RCBS digital with powder dispenser
Shooting distances: 100, 200, and 300 yards max.

Info from Ramshot Load Guide ==> for a 24-inch barrel with 1:7 or 1:9 twist using 69gr BTHP bullets:

Start Load: 22.7 grains powder (gives 2,704fps)
Maximum Load: 25.2 grains powder (gives 3,004fps)
Overall length: 2.260 inches

So I'm ready to load, but I'm not sure what my process should be. Here are my questions:

1. Should I start loading with 22.7 grains? Or go up a little bit, since 22.7 is the minimum given?
2. If you start at nn.n grains, what do you bump up to after that? Do you go upward in 1/2 grain increments, or .2 grain increments, or what?
3. How many bullets do you load at each increment? In other words, how many rounds at each weight of powder are necessary in order to evaluate that load properly for accuracy and velocity?
4. Is 2.260 inches a good OAL to start with?
5. How do you dump your powder from the pan into the brass? Do you just tap it directly out of the pan into the mouth of the round, or do you guys use a tiny funnel or something?


My shooting club has a chrono, so I can use that to measure velocity, although I've never used one before and there might be a learning curve there (read: f-ups).

So what is your general thought process in working up a good load? I know you can look at the primers of spent shells to evaluate them for signs of over-pressure, so I will be doing that.

I also remember from some other threads that you should basically find a powder weight that gives you good accuracy, with no signs of over-pressure, with the most consistent velocity, and once you've got those variables adjusted and dialed in, then you should play with your OAL to obtain the final improvement in accuracy.

Is that about right?

[Jicko]

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=54716

for more info....

My rifle: AR with 20-inch barrel and 1:7 twist
Brass: once-fired Remington, already cleaned, full-length sized, trimmed to length, chamfered, and primed
Powder: Ramshot TAC
Bullets: 69gr Nosler BTHP
Scale: RCBS digital with powder dispenser
Shooting distances: 100, 200, and 300 yards max.

300yds, you don't really need 69grainers... but it is ok if you choose to..

Info from Ramshot Load Guide ==> for a 24-inch barrel with 1:7 or 1:9 twist using 69gr BTHP bullets:

Start Load: 22.7 grains powder (gives 2,704fps)
Maximum Load: 25.2 grains powder (gives 3,004fps)
Overall length: 2.260 inches

So I'm ready to load, but I'm not sure what my process should be. Here are my questions:

1. Should I start loading with 22.7 grains? Or go up a little bit, since 22.7 is the minimum given?

Sure, start from the min is good.

2. If you start at nn.n grains, what do you bump up to after that? Do you go upward in 1/2 grain increments, or .2 grain increments, or what?
3. How many bullets do you load at each increment? In other words, how many rounds at each weight of powder are necessary in order to evaluate that load properly for accuracy and velocity?

You can load 10 per. Then try them out.

One way I like is to have a "reference", so maybe you can try to buy some commerical 69gr to compare. BHA 69gr HPBT (using SMK) is a good reference. You can first make something that is similar to BHA's then you finetune for your gun. You can also mimic their OAL etc...

4. Is 2.260 inches a good OAL to start with?

That's the MAX OAL if you want your rounds to be magazine-able.

5. How do you dump your powder from the pan into the brass? Do you just tap it directly out of the pan into the mouth of the round, or do you guys use a tiny funnel or something?

Powder Funnel.

My shooting club has a chrono, so I can use that to measure velocity, although I've never used one before and there might be a learning curve there (read: f-ups).

Have someone show you, or read the manual. It is no rocket science.

[ocabj]

1. Since you're still learning, start at the minimum or close to it.

2. Half grain (.5gr) increments. I prefer to test on the half or whole grain (ie: 40.0, 40.5, 41.0, 41.5). Even in .223 with a small case where .1gr will make some difference, .1 gr will not be enough to make a significant difference in accuracy. If it *does*, then that specific weight is a horrible load to use. For instance, if you try 23.0 and 22.9 or 23.1 shoot worse, then then you don't want to use 23.0 to begin with. Any load where a .1gr (or even a .2gr) deviation is not the most ideal load.

3. I You're going to have to accept the fact that you will be spending time and components, going back to the range to retest and reconfigure. So don't load to little, but don't load too much. 5-10 rounds per charge weight is about right when trying to find the sweet spot.

4. The 69gr was meant for magazine length. So stick with 2.260" if that's what the loading manuals indicate.

5. Funnel. I use a long drop tube funnel for .223, but that's because I use extruded powder. Ball powder you won't need the long drop tube, but you'll still want a funnel. It's simply faster to put powder in the small mouth of the .223 case that way.

Shoot over the chronograph, but also shoot for group. That way you can test speed and group/accuracy at the same time. When checking for pressure signs on AR brass, look at primer flattening and cratering.

Primers will flatten. That's a fact. How much it flattens depends on how hot the load is. If a primer flattens such that the primer has spread to the edge of the radius of the primer pocket, then you know it's a hot load.That doesn't indicate it's dangerous load, necessarily, but you know you are now in high pressure territory, so you'll have to be cautious going any higher.

If you consistently crater primers, you need to stop and evaluate the load. Definitely swap firing pins to make sure it's not a primer pin issue. Then try again. It it's still doing it, and you know the firing pins are deformed, then the load is too hot.

As for pierced primers, I wouldn't be too adversely concerned with them in the AR as far as pressure is concerned. But if you pierce a primer, you should always switch to a brand new firing pin. Pierced primers will deform the tip of the pin, and it will lead to more frequent piercings.

As far as overall length, yes, find the correct load before you begin playing with seating depth. One of my friends shoots 77 at the short line and 80s at the long line, just like most HP shooters (including myself). But he started loading his 77 to the lands instead of at mag length for the 200 yard slow fire standing stage. He simply took his regular load, and seated them longer (based on the Stoney Point gauge). He tested it and it gives him a slight accuracy gain. Anyway, if you find a good load at a standard seating depth, then you can go ahead and play with seating depth (closer to lands) if you desire.