Cracked Brass

[Dark Mod]

There was a thread a while ago about this and i resolved to take some pictures next time i went to the range. This type of cracking is very common for me, and i find several each time i shoot. In fact this time i found 2 within the first 30 rounds:





Havent noticed a single problem caused by these cases, I actually dont throw away brass until it gets destroyed

[kurac]

it happens, I notice if you buy new brass and shoot it often, it last longer than if you only shoot it once every couple of years.

[Southpaw45]

I get two or three a month with my aging supply of .45 Colt brass. "Splits happen"

[ireload]

Number of usage that the brass goes through can cause that and at times manufacturing defect.

A while back I purchased .357 mag brass but before I made the purchase the guy warned me that he has loaded the brass many times already hence the super cheap price. I only those at .38 spl +P level anyway. I've had several already did the "split" like your posted pic.

[bohoki]

how many hot loads do you think a case should survive?

[Dark Mod]

how many hot loads do you think a case should survive?

The funny thing is these arent even "hot" loads, but they are magnum loads. I get between 5 - 10 loads with these (used brass). Probably alot more if you buy new brass

[sammy]

how many hot loads do you think a case should survive?

I think it depends on quite a few things. .45acp brass is very thick and fairly low pressure so splits are few and far between. I separate my 10mm cases as to how many times loaded and I find after 5 loadings about 5% tend to split and that increases on more times loaded. It seems weaker than .45acp and has twice the pressure of .45acp.

I don't own any .38 special or .357 magnum but I have seen many split cases at the range. The brass wall thickness is fairly thin on these but they are fully supported so it is not a big deal.

Just what i have observed.

Sammy

[Scout2Diesel]

Thanks for the pics Mark.

I was just thinking about splits just like that on some new magnum brass I experienced in the past. (IIRC .44m with 4227)

Is it better to shoot a lighter load first then increase it? Or is that just from a hot load? My other thought was on the cylinders...maybe one is out of spec.

[Dark Mod]

Thanks for the pics Mark.

I was just thinking about splits just like that on some new magnum brass I experienced in the past. (IIRC .44m with 4227)

Is it better to shoot a lighter load first then increase it? Or is that just from a hot load? My other thought was on the cylinders...maybe one is out of spec.

I wouldnt even worry about it, you can work up your loads but i doubt that would solve the problem. Seems to me that the cracks are a natural byproduct of reloading hi pressure rounds over and over. Its a natural occurance and probably doesnt mean one of your cylinders is messed up. Magnum loads just genereate a lot of pressure and each time it weakens the case.

cracked cases have never caused a problem for me

[24Sailor]

Question, Is that Hornady brass? I've seen a pile of factory loaded Hornady 44mags split first time out.

[Dark Mod]

Question, Is that Hornady brass? I've seen a pile of factory loaded Hornady 44mags split first time out.

Its a mixture, probably all range brass. I got it from DenverDuck and it looks like he loaded them a few times himself, they definatley didnt look once fired. I get over 5 loads out of these though, and some i get many more. Theres some nickel ones mixed in and i dont think ive had any cracks from those yet

[Zombieguns]

Just sounds like the brass reached its limmit and time for some new or less used brass, I reload .357 mag hot 158gr. Lead cast over 14gr. Of 2400 and so far 7 reloads with no sign of weekness, I do get those cracks in my .10mm hot loads some times and in thin brassed rounds like my .38-40WCF but its all normal just part of reloading.

[24Sailor]

Its a mixture, probably all range brass. I got it from DenverDuck and it looks like he loaded them a few times himself, they definatley didnt look once fired. I get over 5 loads out of these though, and some i get many more. Theres some nickel ones mixed in and i dont think ive had any cracks from those yet

I like the nickel plated stuff...I buy nickel plated Starline brass for 44m, 357m and use carbide dies. I'm only 3 reloads into my 44 brass, but it still looks near new (zero discards). In 44mag., I load 24 grains W296 with 240 grain JHP's (not a light load).

[Wrangler John]

Cracked Brass

The body splits shown are usually caused by work or age hardened brass sized in a F.L. or improperly set carbide ring die and shot in a maximum diameter chamber. This type of failure is common to mixed lots of scavenged brass of unknown history, meaning date of manufacture and how many times it has been fired with what load. Very common to commercially reloaded revolver ammo I sold at the range. The oversized chambers are not necessarily in your revolver, but could have been in any number of revolvers the brass was previously shot in. There is no way of determining this because the history of the brass is unknown, as is its loading history.

If one sizes a case in a F.L. or improperly adjusted carbide die, then uses the expander stem to properly flair the mouth, seating a bullet will reveal a bulge where the bullet base rests. These cracks occur between the bullet base and case head where the brass has been sized too small, firing works the brass excessively ultimately resulting in the failure shown.

In shooting thousands of heavy magnum reloads I seldom encountered such case failures, and indeed can't recall any. It is best practice to load magnum charges in fresh new quality brass from a reliable manufacturer. Starline, Hornady, Winchester and Remington are my preferred brands. Starline works best in .480 Ruger, .44 Magnum and .45 Colt.

Scavenged range brass should be considered one stage above scrap value, and limited to mid-range target type loads with cast wadcutters, semi-wadcutters and light powder charges.

[24Sailor]

Its OK to load less than 24 grains of 296. I start at 20 and work up.My best load is 21.5 with Sierra 240 JHP
I know they try to scare you into a 24 grain load, but you dont have to.

I worked up from 21g to 24g. I like 24g because it's quite accurate in my old Model 29.

Dont get below about 19.5 there is a phenomina called a pressure incursion?(sic) kind of like your gun back firing like a car. Not a good thing

Instead of pressure incursion....I use the term DETONATION which will do more damage than splitting cases

Read a lot of manuals they all have loads below 24 grains

I load my .357 with 158 gr. JHPs and less than 16 gr. W296 (somewhere between 13.1 and 15.5 depending on what I'm going to do with it)