Reloading .308 for precision

[Thatguy80]

Ok guys,

I have been reloading now for about 2 years and have made decent pistol (9mm, 45acp) and rifle (.233 and .308) rounds.

I decided to get into the long range precision game and purchased a Remington 5r to maybe shoot F-Class or other similar matches out to 600+ yards.

So I need to step up my game and am looking to make "match grade" ammo.

Ill be using a 168 gr Sierra HPBT Matchking projectile and will probably pickup some Lapua brass.

I am currently using the basic RCBS 308 dies with full length sizer and seater.

Is there any good books on advanced reloading and making the "perfect" round for your rifle?

Also look for input on some equipment, I will be using a single Stage rock chucker for assemble but obviously need more to make more consistent rounds to work up a pet load.

I know its a lot of info im asking for so any advice is greatly appreciated!!!

That Guy

[Sub95]

have you read this yet?

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=158086

[Low-Pressure]

try this one:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=72798

[FLIGHT762]

If you are going to take your 308 out to 1000 yards, you should consider the 155's and 175's. 168's are fine out to 700 or so.

[Jonathan Doe]

If you use a bolt gun, like mine:

I neck size LC match brass (or Federal match brass) for my chamber, and do complete case prep (chamfer inside/outside case mouth, chamfer flash hole, cut the primer pocket to uniform depth),

I use 42.0 grains of IMR 4064 with Wolf large rifle primers
Seat the Sierra 175 grain MK bullets from .005" - .010" from rifling.

I do not reload more than 5 times. I have plenty of brass and don't need to risk of brass failure. And, I tried Lapua brass also, but didn't see significant advantage over cheaper LC match brass.

Works very well in my rifle.

[Ahhnother8]

Lapua Palma brass (small primer)
cci br or 450 primer
varget
Berger 155 hybrid bullet - coming out soon

any press
Redding type 'S' dies with neck bushing
Redding competition seater
super accurate scale (+- .02 grains)

[jeferd]

not to thread jack...I'm watching this post, and curious not just about components being used, but which press, scale, and dies as well if that's ok with OP

[swat]

You can buy .308 Federal Match Grade 168 HPBT from Palmetto State Armory for $18 a box.

[thai562]

The key to Long Range reloading is Consistency
1st Brass
-All brass need to be trim to the same length.
-Flash holes need to be debur
-Primer pockets need to be uniform (ream to the same depth)
-Necks need to be turn to the same thickness.
-All brass need to be weight and separate by weight(this will make sure the inside volume is the same.
Buying match grade brass reduce the amount of work needed. Lapua, Norma brass are very consistent. Winchester are pretty good for the price you paid.

2nd Bullets
Match grade bullet are very consistent and uniform, but not perfect.
-Weight all bullets and separate by weight.
BTHP are good, Polymer Tip are better, Monolithic bullets (bullets made from 1 single metal like brass or copper) are best.
Heavy bullet is better light bullet. Less affected by air and wind. 175gr are common.

Additional tips:
-Neck size your brass, and match the brass to your rifle.
-Seat the bullet close to the rifling as possible, if you can, seat the bullet until it touching the rifling. You might have to hand feed one at a time by hand.
-Get a really good scale to do all your weighting.
-Use a bullet comparator to measure your OAL.

If Im missing anything please add or/and correct.

[Peter W Bush]

You can buy .308 Federal Match Grade 168 HPBT from Palmetto State Armory for $18 a box.

Or reload it yourself and spend less money and get better ammo.

How are you planning on dropping the powder? That in itself makes a big difference when you are shooting that far. And as far as over 600 yards, look into Lapua scenars or 185 SMKs.

There is a wealth of knowledge about precision shooting on www.caprc.com as well. I HIGHLY recommend you attend their clinics. I did it last sunday and came out a MUCH better shooter, no question.

[bcrich]

Chris, hit me up if you need help starting to reload.....Im pretty close to you!

[Black Majik]

Check out this thread as well since it tailors to people's personal .308 loads:

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=323517#Post323517

Of course, always work your way up to their loads. But it's a great cheat sheet for pet loads especially with so many Remington 700 shooters.

Good luck.

[huckberry668]

I tried but SMK 168 won't reach 1,000 yards with reliability. within 700 it works well from my experience. Palma type 155gr or 175grs or heavier will do better.

in search of the 'perfect' round you'd want a Forster Co-Ax single stage press. I was told to get one 20 years ago but didn't till 3 years ago. I regret not taking that advise. It loads the most concentric rounds possible. Easy & fast die change, clean, no need for different shell holders and never have to worry about sizing problems due to die coming loose.

Rock Chucker isn't bad but never perfect. I found the die sometimes work themselves loose from 'screw in' type press and mess up resizing which cause chambering problems if you resize a lot of brass at once. I had to pull a part a few hundred loaded 223 rounds because of this. I've read more than a few threads on this topic. RCBS dies are good but the lock ring with a brass lock design is idiotic. You need the Hornady steel lock rings or Forster lock rings with cross bolts.

For seater die, you'd want a micrometer type so you can adjust exactly how much to seat the bullet w/o guessing. And of course you'll need a comparator set for measuring the ogive & tandem line of the rounds. I assume you have a caliper.

You'll need both a neck sizing die (which I use Lee) and a full length sizing die for every 2 or 3 neck sizing.

Optionals: hand priming tool, primer pocket uniformer, flash hole deburring tool, case trimmer, neck turning tool.

[Jonathan Doe]

I use Forster Bonanza Co-Ax press with Redding competition seating die.

[RugerNo1]

You'll need both a neck sizing die (which I use Lee) and a full length sizing die for every 2 or 3 neck sizing.

Not necessarily. What you want is to minimize working of the brass, as I am sure you know. Controlling neck tension is what is important, but if you set up a full length die correctly to bump back the shoulder .001-.002'' then you will have a much smoother feeding round with no loss of accuracy. Every reloader needs a headspace gauge to correctly set up a sizing die.

A bushing full length die is the best of both worlds. The bushing minimizes working on the neck and only bumping the shoulder back a couple .001'' does not work the brass much at all.