Reloading cast bullets

[artichokie]

Is there any difference in reloading cast bullets vs fmj? So far, I've reloaded 45acp for my springfield milspec:
- 230g round nose bullets
- 5.2g off Win 231

I did this using the lee carbide 3 die set.

When loading cast bullets, I've heard i needed to flare the case opening more and crimp? Is that correct? Will my 3 die setup work for this? Any suggestions? Is this even a good idea for my 1911? Prices are much cheaper compared to FMJ. I'm planning on using cast bullets from Bear Creek.

[Whiterabbit]

the rules are the same. if I have a great load for a 200g jacketed bullet, I treat a 200g cast bullet the same as I'd treat a 230 grain or 180 grain jacketed bullet. Work pressure up, develop the load, and see what groups best.

Actually for pistol that's a lie (for rifle it is NOT.). For pistol I load up 10-20 using my best jacketed recipe of the same weight and see how they group. If OK, no bother. If bad, re-develop from scratch.

You should know though I do not chase max loads for pistol. If my jacketed best recipe was an absolute max load, I'd not follow that procedure and back off the powder and work up anyways. You know. Just in case.

This whole post could have been replaced with: "I just use common sense and everything always works out GREAT. (and safe)"

[JAGGUY]

I load cast in my 45 all the time. They work very well as long as I use a round nose that is shaped like hard ball.

I need to flair the shell a skosh more so it doesn't shave any lead when seating the bullet.
I don't "crimp" any more than I would with jacketed..

I cast my own from wheel weights and water quench them.

[meaty-btz]

Even with cast, don't roll crimp on a 45. You might want to put a little heavier taper crimp on it but *shrug* only if you are having setback issues.

With lead cast bullets you usually run a much lighter load compared with jacketed, the reason is Leading.

[Whiterabbit]

I can speak to the flare though for sure. Try it as is. No reason to re-adjust the die if not needed (I don't like to readjust my dies if I don't have to.). So what I'd do is this:

Use std procedure and load as normal (adjusting powder if needed of course). At bullet seating, run 2-3. Adjust the bullet seater, do the whole rigamaroll, and look for lead shavings. If you got lead shavings during adjustment OK, but no shavings during normal seating, good to go. If you are getting lead shavings/smearings all the time for all 2-3, time to pull and increase the flare for your molys.

But I personally wouldn't go increasing the flare willy nilly. Not till I had evidence it doesn't work.

And I would crimp the flare out (I'm not saying this as an experienced 45acp reloader but for other cartridges. I'm just assuming it would be wise practice to remove the flare for any round, including 45acp.)

[Whiterabbit]

I also suggest lots of google searching on leading, you'll find just as many folks discuss too little speed as cause for leading, not too much.

[rsrocket1]

Yes, you should flare the case, but I don't know how much you already flare for fmj. You need to flare just enough so you aren't shaving lead off the bullet as you seat it. Trial and error works best. I also use Bear Creek and like using both the 200g swc and 230g RN in my 1911. The powder drop die is the die you use to flare the case.

You can use the steat/crimp die to close the bell as you seat. Follow the instructions for seating and crimping, but you don't need to crank the die down so much that you crimp, only down low enough so you end up with a straight wall (use calipers).

I personally use the FCD die on the last stage and run it through the resizer to straighten the wall. It does not squish the bullet in the case and I see no loss in accuracy by using the FCD in this fashion. When I first learned reloading, I used the seater/crimper to seat and remove the flare because I was using a single stage press and it simply saved one more step, but now that I use a 5 station progressive, I have the extra station available.

The Bear Creek Bullets work great in the 1911. Since the 45ACP is a low pressure, low velocity round, there is no leading due to excessive bullet speed on the high end. On the low end, you do want to get the pressure up there so that the case expands to seal off the gasses otherwise, you get a nice blast of gasses in your face and sooty cases. You may also get leading in the barrel due to gas cutting of the bullet if your barrel is on the large size, but I have never experienced it with the Bear Creek moly bullets even with ridiculously light loads.

[bohoki]

hell thats all i reload with using fmj brings my costs up to almost factory

you only need to flare a littleand the seat die only needs to crimp enough to remove the bell that is the flare

[artichokie]

Thanks everyone for the info. Just wanna make sure i didnt miss anything.

I'm gonna pick up a box of bullets and see how it goes.

[Whiterabbit]

you buying bear creek because you are in san jose and will be buying from reeds? I just shot all my molys but do you want a sampler of 200 and 230 grainers, non moly, from MO bullets? I've got a bunch here in SJ.

[racinginthestreets]

The Bear Creek Bullets work great in the 1911. Since the 45ACP is a low pressure, low velocity round, there is no leading due to excessive bullet speed on the high end. On the low end, you do want to get the pressure up there so that the case expands to seal off the gasses otherwise, you get a nice blast of gasses in your face and sooty cases. You may also get leading in the barrel due to gas cutting of the bullet if your barrel is on the large size, but I have never experienced it with the Bear Creek moly bullets even with ridiculously light loads.

I just bought some Bear Creek Moly 9mm Luger 125gr RN, 38 special 158gr RN and 45 ACP 200gr RN bullets. They were priced right. Do you find you have as much smoke when firing these as you do with an all lead bullet? Because of the moly coating I don't think leading in the barrel will be a problem, but I'm concerned about excessive smoke compared to a plated bullet.

[Whiterabbit]

I've only had smoke due to powder. So, trailboss never smokes on me, H110 will smoke on me like crazy.

I DO have trailboss problems making sooty cases. I figured low pressure played a role.

[xrMike]

With lead cast bullets you usually run a much lighter load compared with jacketed, the reason is Leading.

I also suggest lots of google searching on leading, you'll find just as many folks discuss too little speed as cause for leading, not too much.

I agree with the latter comment from personal experience. There seems to be a sweet spot when it comes to powder charge, one that yeilds little/no leading.

For me, 5.0 grains of W231 + 200g LSWC creates tons of leading in my 1911.

But 5.2 grains gives me hardly any. So that's what I go with now.

Re: case mouth flare... I adjust the die so it gives just the bare minimum of flare (just enough for the bullet to sit flat on top of the case before seating). No more than that. Any more and you're over-working the brass and you'll get split necks quicker.

[bruce381]

""For me, 5.0 grains of W231 + 200g LSWC creates tons of leading in my 1911
But 5.2 grains gives me hardly any. So that's what I go with now."'

maybe you are undersized
I shoot cast @.452

[artichokie]

Do you guys shot molys or non-moly in your 1911 ?