Lube removal and tumbling question

[runway1]

Now that I have a tumbler, I'm thinking the sequence would be:
1. Tumble clean
2. Lube in (neck) and out
3. Size - Deprime
4. Tumble to remove lube (now it's not lubed for bullet seating)
5. Set primer - powder - Seat Bullet

Since I'm seating boat-tail bullets, I'm thinking a cleaned, unlubed case (from step 4) is ok. Also doubles in cleaning out primer pockets!

Am I good with this?

[XDRoX]

If you use Hornady One Shot you don't have to clean it off, it just drys. Really good stuff.

[Chaos Effects]

I no longer tumble brass after removing the primer. I found that the Lyman media i used got stuck in the primer pockets and flash holes it took ages to get the media out of them. But I was reloading .223 it might work with finer media or larger rifle brass.

[Briancnelson]

It doesn't. I've never found a media or a shell size that didn't get stuck. Just wipe the stuff off or use a lube that dries up.

[Full Clip]

I had the same problem with media clogging pockets until I started using Zilla walnut media. It's very fine and just falls through but polishes brass and removes lube just fine.

[runway1]

I no longer tumble brass after removing the primer. I found that the Lyman media i used got stuck in the primer pockets and flash holes it took ages to get the media out of them. But I was reloading .223 it might work with finer media or larger rifle brass.

I've tried it with .308Win and extra fine walnut - peachy keen, squeeky clean!

[runway1]

It doesn't. I've never found a media or a shell size that didn't get stuck. Just wipe the stuff off or use a lube that dries up.

Huh? No clogged pockets here.

My primary concern was seating bullets with cleaned, unlubed necks.

1. I skip the dreaded primer pocket cleaning step
2. I skip the post-seating wipe down step

If I'm ok seating the bullet in a dry neck, I'm a happy camper

[runway1]

I had the same problem with media clogging pockets until I started using Zilla walnut media. It's very fine and just falls through but polishes brass and removes lube just fine.

I must be using a similar walnut. I bought 12# of "18/40" walnut off of ebay. It works great and couldn't clog a pin hole - $17.20 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180582390089?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

[Briancnelson]

I've used the Zilla. It still packs itself into a primer pocket sometimes, believe it or not.

It is a big improvement on coarser media however, which is why I still use it.

It takes me so little time to wipe down the wax i put on the cases I just don't see the point in bothering. Fraction of the time it would take to tumble, and no chance of blockage.

[ArmyMedicMoose]

a few companies make sprays on cleaners.

[noylj]

If you are shooting bottleneck cases, you will have to lube.
Unless you are shooting well into the 60+ ksi region, you don't need to worry about residual lube.
In fact, it could be argued that one reason for so many case head separations is the lack of lube on the case. The case then adheres to the chamber walls very tightly and the only area that can expand is just past the web of the case. If the case didn't adhere to the chamber so tightly, the expansion could be spread over the length of the case.
I deprime ALL my cases when I come back from the range.
I inspect, deprime, and sort. The sorted brass goes into my 20/40 grit corn for an hour or more.
I have NEVER had any media pack in the primer pocket or in the flash hole. I add NOTHING to the media as it gets my cases cleaner than I need anyway, so why improve on more than good enough?
Even if I did have some media in the case, I would simply watch when I run through the sizing die with decapper and see if all the media was knocked out.
I can tell you that I do not like the Hornady spray case lube--it is sticky and feels "thick." I prefer the Lee or Dillon lubes.
I used to use walnut, but the walnut breaks down to a very find powder and the powder will pack-up in the case. This powder will go all over everything. Even the use of paper towels to absorb the powder didn't work well enough. If you don't notice it, you will be loading cases with significantly less free volume.

[popeye4]

If you are shooting bottleneck cases, you will have to lube.
Unless you are shooting well into the 60+ ksi region, you don't need to worry about residual lube.
In fact, it could be argued that one reason for so many case head separations is the lack of lube on the case. The case then adheres to the chamber walls very tightly and the only area that can expand is just past the web of the case. If the case didn't adhere to the chamber so tightly, the expansion could be spread over the length of the case.
I deprime ALL my cases when I come back from the range.
I inspect, deprime, and sort. The sorted brass goes into my 20/40 grit corn for an hour or more.
I have NEVER had any media pack in the primer pocket or in the flash hole. I add NOTHING to the media as it gets my cases cleaner than I need anyway, so why improve on more than good enough?
Even if I did have some media in the case, I would simply watch when I run through the sizing die with decapper and see if all the media was knocked out.
I can tell you that I do not like the Hornady spray case lube--it is sticky and feels "thick." I prefer the Lee or Dillon lubes.
I used to use walnut, but the walnut breaks down to a very find powder and the powder will pack-up in the case. This powder will go all over everything. Even the use of paper towels to absorb the powder didn't work well enough. If you don't notice it, you will be loading cases with significantly less free volume.

The case is SUPPOSED to adhere tightly to the chamber walls. Otherwise, excessive force can be applied to the bolt face during firing. Case head separation comes from stretch due to excessive headspace, which can come from setting the shoulder back too far during resizing. One should have clean ammo in clean chambers, and sized appropriately to fit properly. That bolt that is holding back all that pressure is aimed at your face......

[Arcaporale]

Now that I have a tumbler, I'm thinking the sequence would be:
1. Tumble clean
2. Lube in (neck) and out
3. Size - Deprime
4. Tumble to remove lube (now it's not lubed for bullet seating)
5. Set primer - powder - Seat Bullet

Since I'm seating boat-tail bullets, I'm thinking a cleaned, unlubed case (from step 4) is ok. Also doubles in cleaning out primer pockets!

Am I good with this?

I run the same sequence when loading .223, however I trim my cases after sizing and before tumbling for a 2nd time. I use Lyman media and run a decapping die on my lee turret when I'm ready to load. This pops out any media from my primer pockets and flash holes.


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- Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Dark Mod]

Why are you tumbling twice? why not just tumble after resize/deprime?

[sonnyt650]

I run the same sequence when loading .223, however I trim my cases after sizing and before tumbling for a 2nd time. I use Lyman media and run a decapping die on my lee turret when I'm ready to load. This pops out any media from my primer pockets and flash holes.


---
- Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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