SOAP/WATER FOR CLEANING BRASS ENOUGH?

[gemini1]

I just soaked my spent 223/9MM brass in a bucket filled with soap and water, I sort of manually tumbled it with a nylon brush/scrubber every hour or so, left it overnight then rinsed it several times and left it under the sun to dry.

So now I'm wondering, do I still need to tumble these brass or can I go straight to the reloading process after depriming each brass? It looks clean enough for me but its not as shiny as those I've seen on some threads, the inside part still has the blackish color but it looks smooth.

I dont have a tumbler yet so I'm wondering if soap/water is good enough.

[sequoia_nomad]

If that's as clean as you want them, that's fine. Just make sure they are thoroughly dry. You only need to remove the larger stuff, dust, sand, debris, etc., to avoid damaging your dies.

[XDRoX]

Yep, you're fine. You won't attract woman of loose morals like shiny brass is known to do. But it'll work fine. You really just don't want to shove a bunch of dirt and sand up into your dies. People have been loading without tumblers for many years.

You can get a tumbler for like $60 from harbor freight if you do want the shiny brass.

[XDRoX]

SN beat me to it

[gemini1]

Thanks guys. I was just curious when I saw pics of those tumbled in steel pellets where even the inside part of the brass were super clean.

What about after brass has been resized? if others tumble it again to remove the lube, what would be the best way to remove it without a tumbler? wash it again?

[noylj]

Considering that all you need to do is wipe of any dirt/grit/sand/dust, then soap and water is more than adequate.
I prefer the ease of tumbling in 20/40 grit corn and some like a multiple activity since they want their brass to look like new.
You get to decide on your own just what you consider adequate.
I spent many a year wiping off cases and did not get any improvement in accuracy by tumbling. However, I did save my wrist and hands some pain. Never had a scratched die, except with nickel cases and the nickel flakes off and embeds in the steel or carbide and puts racing stripes down the cases.

[runway1]

gemini1, as a 25 yr mechanical engineer very familiar with metals (not a metalurgist but close), I would not use that process. Surface corrosion begins invisible to the eye and you definitely gave it a kick start. Also, by air drying, that just helps the oxidation process. Remember, the "tarnish" you see that quickly forms on brass is oxidation - rust - corrosion, whatever term makes sense to you. It's stuff you don't want, especially in your barrel.

You can't see initial stages of corrosion, but it's there and depositing in your barrel. Sure you clean it out good after the day but myself, I would just avoid it.

Clean brass (Cu+Zn) with solvents (acetone, IPA, etc.) by hand wiping. Or clean by abrasion (aka; tumbling). That's why folks eventually end up with the latter. A heck of a lot easier but in the mean time, by some drug store IPA or Home Depot acetone and hand wipe and you're good - no more water soaking!

[HKMadness]

Yep, you're fine. You won't attract woman of loose morals like shiny brass is known to do. But it'll work fine. You really just don't want to shove a bunch of dirt and sand up into your dies. People have been loading without tumblers for many years.

You can get a tumbler for like $60 from harbor freight if you do want the shiny brass.

Ive reloaded about 1,000 rds of 223 and never cleaned beyond wiping. Never had a problem.

[bruceflinch]

Ive reloaded about 1,000 rds of 223 and never cleaned beyond wiping. Never had a problem.

Al Gore called & wanted to thank you for conserving water....

[gunboat]

Washing with soap and water and air or oven drying has been an accepted method of cleaning since reloading began - It was rather necessary with black powder.

To remove oil residue I use a rag moistened with petroleum naptha, I used to use lighter fluid but it in no longer cheap and plentiful.

[fabguy]

I tumble fired brass for about 20-30 min in a combination of crushed walnut / aluminum oxide, then before I load them I tumble in fine crushed corn cob. I use the aluminum oxide combo because it removes heavy oxidation from the brass quickly and also cleans the inside too, it leaves it with a very dull finish (almost looks like it was blasted)
I use some of what was left after I blasted my 39 chevy.

[runway1]

Washing with soap and water and air or oven drying has been an accepted method of cleaning since reloading began - It was rather necessary with black powder.

Black powder, maybe, with quick drying precautions. Not necessary for smokeless.

To remove oil residue I use a rag moistened with petroleum naptha.

Solvent - perfect.

I used to use lighter fluid but it in no longer cheap and plentiful.

Solvent - perfect.

[Latigo]

I remember my Dad telling me that 45 years ago he didn't have the dollars for a tumbler, so he would put all of his brass in a pillowcase, tie the top and toss it into Ma's washing machine. As long as it's not a corrosion problem it worked great for him.

[gunboat]

Latigo -- that was a common method -- if the wife did not object! Even better was the knitted type bag for BW's unmentionables, but best not to get caught using it.

[gemini1]

gemini1, as a 25 yr mechanical engineer very familiar with metals (not a metalurgist but close), I would not use that process. Surface corrosion begins invisible to the eye and you definitely gave it a kick start. Also, by air drying, that just helps the oxidation process. Remember, the "tarnish" you see that quickly forms on brass is oxidation - rust - corrosion, whatever term makes sense to you. It's stuff you don't want, especially in your barrel.

You can't see initial stages of corrosion, but it's there and depositing in your barrel. Sure you clean it out good after the day but myself, I would just avoid it.

Clean brass (Cu+Zn) with solvents (acetone, IPA, etc.) by hand wiping. Or clean by abrasion (aka; tumbling). That's why folks eventually end up with the latter. A heck of a lot easier but in the mean time, by some drug store IPA or Home Depot acetone and hand wipe and you're good - no more water soaking!

So does this mean the 1000+ brass I just water/soap cleaned has diminished the number of times I can use it for reloading?
How is this gonna affect the barrel when its the copper plated bullets that goes through it and the casing just stays in the chamber?
And if the brass has been lubed and wiped off, would'nt that have prevented the corrosion from getting worse and even transfer to the chamber?