How deep for full-length resizing?

[runway1]

I'm resizing .308Win for match rounds. How deep should the brass be resized? Chuck Hawk says:

Here is how to adjust the resizing die to full length resize cases. First, run the ram to the top of the reloading press stroke with the proper shell holder installed. Second, screw the resizing die into the press until it stops against the elevated shell holder. Third, all play must be removed from the system. To do this, lower the ram and turn the die 1/8 to 1/4 turn farther into the press. Check the adjustment by returning the shell holder to the top of its stroke--you should feel the press cam over center. Now set the large lock ring and your die is adjusted to properly full length resize cases.

Others say bring the ram and die together then BACK OFF about 1/2 turn. Which is it?

[XDRoX]

The deeper the better. However, if using a carbide die, then it is possible to damage the carbide ring if the die is set too low. So I practice the advice of slightly backing it off as to not make contact.

However with non-carbide rifle dies, it doesn't matter. Lower it until it makes contact if you want to. I had to with some of my 223 to get it to function 100%.

[sonnyt650]

then BACK OFF about 1/2 turn

I don't know who's giving you that advice or why. The play in the die body threading and press parts is removed by tightening everything up, so force that die into the shellplate to maximize the sizing action. If the absolute minimum case size for that die/shellplate combo is NOT your intention, well then I don't know why half a turn less is suggested -- my advice would be full-length sizing the minimum amount for that rifle.

Ah I get it -- read the last post which makes some sense. Carbide is much harder than plain steel and will shatter, never thought of it that way.

[FLIGHT762]

Since you are sizing for precision ammunition, you should invest in a headspace gauge of some kind so you can measure the fired cases in your rifle and when you resize, you push the shoulder back .001-.003 for bolt guns and no more than .005" for autoloaders. I use the Hornady set. This is how you use it:

http://www.inlandshooters.net/index.php?contentid=99

Use digital calipers.

You'd be surprised on the numbers. I was setting up a .223 Rem. die two days ago. It pushed the shoulder way back (more than other dies I have). I was able to adjust the die to push the shoulder back to what I wanted. If you don't use some kind of gauge to check it, you have no idea what it is. It will give you better brass life.

Everyone has their own opinion on what headspace measurement process to use, there are several types out there,but you should use something.

[halifax]

cam over has been the way I've always done it per die maker's instructions.

[popeye4]

Since you are sizing for precision ammunition, you should invest in a headspace gauge of some kind so you can measure the fired cases in your rifle and when you resize, you push the shoulder back .001-.003 for bolt guns and no more than .005" for autoloaders. I use the Hornady set. This is how you use it:

http://www.inlandshooters.net/index.php?contentid=99

Use digital calipers.

You'd be surprised on the numbers. I was setting up a .223 Rem. die two days ago. It pushed the shoulder way back (more than other dies I have). I was able to adjust the die to push the shoulder back to what I wanted. If you don't use some kind of gauge to check it, you have no idea what it is. It will give you better brass life.

Everyone has their own opinion on what headspace measurement process to use, there are several types out there,but you should use something.

^^This.^^ Anything else is just a guess.

[damndave]

You need a RCBS Precision Mic. How much to resize depends on your rifles headspace.

[thenodnarb]

I just bring the die to the shell holder and ADD a 1/4 turn for camming.
I don't FL resize often. I try to only neck size if possible.

[popeye4]

You need a RCBS Precision Mic. How much to resize depends on your rifles headspace.

That is one of several options. I have found the Sinclair unit to work well: http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...let_Comparator and http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...mp_Gage_Insert

I have also found that the Redding Instant Indicator (http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...tant_Indicator) is easier to use than the RCBS Precision Mic, but they will both provide the required information.

[chim-chim7]

Put a .003 shim between the shell holder and die body as a buffer, tighten, remove shim, your done.

[gau17]

That is one of several options. I have found the Sinclair unit to work well: http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...let_Comparator and http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...mp_Gage_Insert

I have also found that the Redding Instant Indicator (http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...tant_Indicator) is easier to use than the RCBS Precision Mic, but they will both provide the required information.

+1 /\

Buy one of these. Measure a few fired rounds. Take the longest measurement and set your die to bump it only .001. Now verify that brass will chamber properly. If it does you're all set.

You really dont want to be pushing the shoulder back too much every time you resize. It will shorten the lifespan of the brass. I only bump them back .001 at a time (I DO THIS ONLY FOR MY BOLT ACTION).

[popeye4]

One note on the Hornady headspace system: http://www.hornady.com/store/Headspace-Gauge-Kits/

This system uses aluminum inserts that have a sharp, 90 degree edge at the datum line. I have found that the soft aluminum will "round" a little bit, throwing off your measurements by several thousanths (which is significant in this application). The Sinclair inserts are made of steel and are cut to match the shoulder angle of the case, hence no variation due to deformation of the insert.

[FLIGHT762]

One note on the Hornady headspace system: http://www.hornady.com/store/Headspace-Gauge-Kits/

This system uses aluminum inserts that have a sharp, 90 degree edge at the datum line. I have found that the soft aluminum will "round" a little bit, throwing off your measurements by several thousanths (which is significant in this application). The Sinclair inserts are made of steel and are cut to match the shoulder angle of the case, hence no variation due to deformation of the insert.

I have the Hornady set and bought some of the Sinclair bump gauge inserts

http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=35265/Product/Sinclair_Bump_Gage_Insert

The Hornady insert body works with the Sinclair inserts, or you can buy the Sinclair bump gauge body for $15.00

http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=34014/Product/Sinclair_Insert_Style_Bullet_Comparator

I agree the Sinclair steel bump gauges are better than the aluminum Hornady gauges.

If someone just set their dies by hitting the shell holder on the ram and tightening a little more are guessing as to how much the shoulder is being set back. Dies can be a little out of spec. and can size too much or too little.

Even the wilson/ Dillon style gauges will work.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25547/catid/3/Dillon_Rifle_Case_Gages

I prefer something that I can see the number on.

[uscbigdawg]

I prefer the keep it simple route. Run the ram up, spin the die down 'til it makes contact. Turn the die down another 1/4 turn. Throw a case in and see if it gets all the way down the case. Adjust as necessary to do.

Some call it "cam over resizing", I just do it to take the brass back to where it was when I did load development. Consistency trumps everything IMHO and I didn't want to dick with weighing brass, bullet comparators, etc.

Rich