Braking barrel in with Molycoated bullets?

[Deja-Vu]

I just got a Savage 12 BVSS 243 cal., brand new. It came with 100 rounds of loaded Federal ammo, and 500 rounds Sierra Blitzking 70 grain Molycoated bullets and 500 new cases.

I have never reloaded with molycoated and I'm going to play the brake in game with this rifle, so do I reload the molycoated to brake in the barrel or just shoot the none coated loaded ammo to brake it in?

The one thing leaning more to is the molycoated just because I have never tried it.

[FLIGHT762]

Some shooters use Moly, some don't. I didn't get on the Moly Train. You should research it on the net some before starting and see if it is for you.

A couple of things to look at:

http://www.midwayusa.com/content/legacy/moly_faq.htm

http://www.predatormastersforums.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1873724

[Latigo]

If you don't have time to invest in correct Moly impact coating of projectiles, I suggest you don't shoot those at all in a new barrel. ICP's require some devotion. ICP's = Impact Coated Projectiles.

I've written two series, one on hBN ICP's and one on Moly ICP's. This is the link to my instructions.

http://www.ar10t.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=21&id=8300&Itemid=225

It so happens we do both specifically because we have expensive barrels involved, and barrel life extension is what this is all about. 99% of all our ICP's are hBN coated as are the barrels of those rifles.

[QuarterBoreGunner]

Breaking in the barrel with moly? That's easy. DON'T. Proper break in *requires* a certain amount of friction and lapping - moly just makes that process more tedious and lengthy.
I'd suggest breaking in the barrel with plain old copper AND then if you want to try out moly, go for it. But you'll find you'll need 20 to 30 rounds of moly after copper before the groups settle down. Same thing if you go back to copper after moly.

Anyway, this has been my experience with a Tikka in 22-250.

[CK_32]

I was told the perks of milly coated bullets it later down the road its easier to clean...... But if you use a regualr bullet in the molly process it makes it impossible to clean.. Just what I've been told.. To be honest just shoot your gun and your gun will be broken in.

Just dont shoot repid fire until after 50 rounds and your g2g IMO

[Latigo]

There's a lot more to it than either of those comments gents. A lot more.
If reading the process doesn't interst you, then at least read the patent. Off the wall info won't help him at all.

[Deja-Vu]

Thanks guys, all just go ahead and shoot the copper rounds to brake it in. All I ever do to brake in a barrel is shoot 1 then clean it, then cooper clean it on the first 5. After that I do it in groups of 5 rounds up to 50 round total. I can't do any more than that because it starts to drive me crazy.

[Ahhnother8]

I have never reloaded with molycoated and I'm going to play the brake in game with this rifle, so do I reload the molycoated to brake in the barrel or just shoot the none coated loaded ammo to break it in?

It does not matter. I shot moly-coated bullets from the late 1990's until last year in AR's with match-grade barrels. Four or five of those barrels never saw a naked bullet. Over the last year and a half, I have been using up the last of the moly bullets. In my service rifle, I shoot naked 77's at 200 and 300 yards, then shoot moly-coated 80 VLD's at 600 yards. Then the next day, without cleaning, will shoot naked bullets again. Then shoot moly immediately after. In my Palma rifle (.308), I shoot only naked bullets and only clean the barrel every 500-600 rounds. And it cleans up quickly. It just does not matter.

[Lead Waster]

Barrel break-in always results in a heated discussion. Some people say that there is no need and no such thing as barrel break in. Some people say that break-in instructions are provided by some barrel/rifle companies because people asked for on, so they just made something up. Some people say that the shoot, clean, repeat for 100 rounds ritual was created just to slow down the shooting to avoid heating up the barrel.

I have no idea what the truth is, it's a religious thing. I say that it wouldn't hurt to do a meticulous, one shot, clean, second shot, clean, etc ... regimen, except that it would take up a heck of a lot of time.

[Latigo]

For me it's not a heated discussion. It used to be, but since David Tubb came out with his new barrel prep kit its a non-topic. I was dubious until I tried the first kit. Groups shrunk to 1/2 of the original test groups fired. The Hawkeye Borescope proved beyond a doubt the definite difference visually. The machining marks simply disappeared leaving a virtually pristine bore.

[popeye4]

For me it's not a heated discussion. It used to be, but since David Tubb came out with his new barrel prep kit its a non-topic. I was dubious until I tried the first kit. Groups shrunk to 1/2 of the original test groups fired. The Hawkeye Borescope proved beyond a doubt the definite difference visually. The machining marks simply disappeared leaving a virtually pristine bore.

^^^This^^^

Even hand lapped barrels have tool marks in the throat from the chambering operation. I have also had excellent results with Tubb's system. You can read about it here: http://www.davidtubb.com/davidtubb/c...rticle_new.pdf

No, I don't get a cut from David....

[Latigo]

You don't??! Want to share half of mine???

[popeye4]

You don't??! Want to share half of mine???

Sure!!!

I didn't recognize you until I checked your site. I have one of your diopter sights for my K31, looks like you have a new version out. Wish I had that!