Getting ready to start reloading 40 S&W. First timer advice appreciated!

[Turo]

Hey everybody, I've decided to start reloading 40 S&W for my Glock 27 and have settled on a powder and bullet choice, Longshot and Berry's plated 180gr FP Bullets. I looked up some loads on Hodgdon's website (And will try to corroborate them elsewhere as well) and decided on the starting load of 6.5gr of Longshot with the 180gr bullet and OAL of 1.125. It claims to give ~1000 FPS @ 25,000 psi.

I've already got a single stage reloading press and most of the tools I'm supposed to have when starting as my dad has reloaded for quite a few years and is giving me a lot of his old stuff. I'm also planning on buying the Lee carbide dies that will do both 40 and 10mm since I'm hoping to pick up a used Glock 20 after a while.

I'm mainly posting this up to ask if the aforementioned load sounds reasonable, and to ask which primers I should be looking for. Also, I haven't purchased anything mentioned yet, I'm just looking for input on my choices.

ETA: BTW, this is just going to be for plinking loads, no hunting or anything like that, I'm just looking to learn to reload and maybe save a few bucks

If you'd like to give any advice at all, feel free as I'm pretty much a complete noob when it comes to reloading.

[Munk]

Primers, powder, brass and bullets.

Press, case lube (unless carbide dies or better, then optional), dies, powder measure, priming device, scale and measuring device (calipers can be had cheap from harbor freight or similar).

Case lube makes sizing easy. you just need to clean the cases (usually with a tumbler) afterwards. Carbide dies will usually say that no lube is necessary, but some owners report that it makes things buttery smooth and easy if you choose to use some.

Make sure the locking rings on your dies get tightened properly once you've set your depths where you need them. This will keep them from migrating and increase your consistency.

Calipers are to check overall length, and other measurements.

A scale is immensely useful for double checking powder throw weight, and for checking cases and bullets for consistent weight (more important for competitive shooters than plinkers or short range hunters).

With your gear, you can make hunting or plinking rounds, it's just a difference in bullet choice. I've found that I can make hunting rounds for less than the cost of buying factory plinker ammo from wal-mart.

[Turo]

Make sure the locking rings on your dies get tightened properly once you've set your depths where you need them. This will keep them from migrating and increase your consistency.

Good to know!

I've got all the measuring tools I need, scales, calipers, and the like. I'm mostly interested in the powder, bullet, and primer choices, and if they are reasonable. (I don't want to lose any digits! )

[Markus]

Im still working my wy through the box of 1000 180 gr fp I got from berrys. I am using Unique powder and wolf primers. So far all has been great with only a few hard primers now and again.

[Turo]

Im still working my wy through the box of 1000 180 gr fp I got from berrys. I am using Unique powder and wolf primers. So far all has been great with only a few hard primers now and again.

May I ask what gun you're shooting them out of? Also, I've heard that crimping too much on those bullets can cause some problems, any info on that?

[GetBulletsandBrass]

Make sure you go with the carbide dies, you'll be able to skip the lubricating step and reload faster. The Lee Auto disk measure works great for throwing consistent loads. As with any powder you should check your loads through out the process to ensure you're powder charges are correct.

When you burn up the powder you do have, give Ramshot's True Blue a whirl. This is really good powder and well suited for use with the Berry's bullets. As for crimping, you really only need a slight crimp. Too much crimp will pierce the plating on the bullet.

[stand125]

I shoot reloads out of my Glock 17, but have heard from several old crusty reloaders that it is not recommended to use reloads in a 40cal Glock. Of course my LEE classic loader says not to shoot reloads in my Glock 17 because of the unsopported Barrel/Chamber area, so who knows.

[Turo]

When you burn up the powder you do have, give Ramshot's True Blue a whirl. This is really good powder and well suited for use with the Berry's bullets. As for crimping, you really only need a slight crimp. Too much crimp will pierce the plating on the bullet.

Any particular benefit other than it working well with Berry's bullets? I looked at some load data for it and it seems to give fairly similar velocities. It does look like there's very little difference in weight between start and max loads, looks like only .7gr. That seems like only a small variation could change pressures quite a bit.

[Artsville]

Do you have a reloading manual or have you loaded other calibers? I shoot a lot of 40sw Extremz plated stuff.

The primers are not really an issue any brand just make sure they are not small magnum primers. Powders you will get a huge spectrum of answers as well as with bullets. What i would do is buy only 1lb bottles of powder and play with different combinations.

You need some type of chronograph....you will not be able to judge the velocity of your reloads w/o it. I would maybe load slightly longer oal like around 1.130. I load for a glock, cz, mp, and an xd. Case gauge...barrel check..magazine check....if all are ok then lock down the press. Remember crimp is not really crimp. It should be named debelling. The idea is to remove the bell on the brass created to seat the bullet.

40sw is a high pressure round.....so my suggestion is take the minimum load for your type of bullet and always work your way up with charge. It is some effort but each barrel is going to behave slightly different.

One thing to think about if it is a plinking load maybe something at 850fps rather than factory 1050fps would be more fun to shoot. Most people don't load factory loads for reloading.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=73

Tons of combinations of powder and bullets in this forum.........i myself shoot:
VV N320 180gr 3.8gr minor load
VV N320 180gr 4.7gr major load

I shoot the 165gr bullets too....and then there are jacketed bullets as well....it goes on and on and on........but it is fun.

Art

[gl0ckc0ma]

If you need someone to test em for you, I can pick up rounds whenever

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S 4G using tapatalk

[Turo]

Do you have a reloading manual or have you loaded other calibers? I shoot a lot of 40sw Extremz plated stuff.

The primers are not really an issue any brand just make sure they are not small magnum primers. Powders you will get a huge spectrum of answers as well as with bullets. What i would do is buy only 1lb bottles of powder and play with different combinations.

You need some type of chronograph....you will not be able to judge the velocity of your reloads w/o it. I would maybe load slightly longer oal like around 1.130. I load for a glock, cz, mp, and an xd. Case gauge...barrel check..magazine check....if all are ok then lock down the press. Remember crimp is not really crimp. It should be named debelling. The idea is to remove the bell on the brass created to seat the bullet.

40sw is a high pressure round.....so my suggestion is take the minimum load for your type of bullet and always work your way up with charge. It is some effort but each barrel is going to behave slightly different.

One thing to think about if it is a plinking load maybe something at 850fps rather than factory 1050fps would be more fun to shoot. Most people don't load factory loads for reloading.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=73

Tons of combinations of powder and bullets in this forum.........i myself shoot:
VV N320 180gr 3.8gr minor load
VV N320 180gr 4.7gr major load

I shoot the 165gr bullets too....and then there are jacketed bullets as well....it goes on and on and on........but it is fun.

Art

I have a reloading manual or two, I'll have to check them when I head back to my parents' house in a couple weeks.
The main reason I wanted to load faster is because I wanted to replicate a little warmer loads so I can work on my flinch once I master the factory loads I do have. Also, I'm a glutton for punishment J/K.

The chronograph is one tool I don't have, and I don't think my dad has one to let me borrow. Any idea on a less expensive one? I don't think I would really need one that gives me super-precision since I'm just loading range ammo. Or do I?

I really appreciate the advice!

[Turo]

If you need someone to test em for you, I can pick up rounds whenever

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S 4G using tapatalk

Haha! You'd be hard pressed to get those away from my 27, she loves shooting even more than I do!

[Markus]

I shoot out of a CZ 75B. Just make sure you give it a light crimp and work your way up slowly like a few other people pointed out its a high pressure round and we dont need your next thread to be another glock kaboom thread now do we?

[Turo]

I shoot out of a CZ 75B. Just make sure you give it a light crimp and work your way up slowly like a few other people pointed out its a high pressure round and we dont need your next thread to be another glock kaboom thread now do we?

Thanks, those are good looking guns. Heard you on the going slow, that's going to be the slogan of my reloading ventures, "Go slow or I'll blow your fingers off!"

Hmm, wonder if I can get a sign made? LOL

[Artsville]

The chronograph is one tool I don't have, and I don't think my dad has one to let me borrow. Any idea on a less expensive one? I don't think I would really need one that gives me super-precision since I'm just loading range ammo. Or do I?

I really appreciate the advice!

I use a simple F1 Chrony...i think they run about $100...I got mine used for $50. You can spend a lot but you don't really need to. You definitely need the feedback from the chrono.

The flinching you could work on with some snap caps. Have your buddy slip them in your magazine randomly so you don't know the order. This is also a good drill for clearing failures and you can practice tap and rack.

Art