Help a Noob Reloader

[Dark Mod]

So ive been reloading for a little while now, and i realize there is still much i dont understand, especially when it comes to experimentation.

I would like to be educated on the different variables reloaders face and their impacts on performance. Specifically:

1. Size of the load (how many grains) how does it affect performance, are slower bullets more acurate? if so why? It would seem that smaller bullets would need less powder to achieve velocity but it seems to be the opposite when i go through load data.

2. Size of the projectile (how many grains). Is a heavier bullet more acurate? if so why?

3. Crimp, does more crimp creat more pressure/velocity/accuracy? or is it just to keep the bullet in place when used in revolvers and lever guns.

4. Overal case length - will uniformity affect acuracy at all or is it just a matter of feeding and cycling correctly?

5. Powders (slow burning, fast burning etc..) Which is better for what purpose? why do you need to use 15 grains of one powder and 6 grains for another for the same velocity? why wouldnt people just buy the powder with the most power per volume and get more loads per pound?

6. primers - Do they really matter? anything wrong with using wolf or tula primers?

7. Shape of bullet - Spitzer vs round vs hollow point vs boat tail vs flat point etc.. do these affect acuracy at all? what is the difference between expensive match grade bullets and the cheap stuff.

Please bear with me, i know this is alot to take in but after a while of reloading i cant seem to get the answers anywhere else. Nothing really goes into the detail i need and breaks it down like this.

Im trying to experiment with loads and its difficult to know which changes should yield which results.

[diego-ted]

I am all ears as well??

Diego

[MaHoTex]

Dang! Those are some good questions.

[popeye4]

So ive been reloading for a little while now, and i realize there is still much i dont understand, especially when it comes to experimentation.

I would like to be educated on the different variables reloaders face and their impacts on performance. Specifically:

OK, here goes.....

1. Size of the load (how many grains) how does it affect performance, are slower bullets more acurate? if so why? It would seem that smaller bullets would need less powder to achieve velocity but it seems to be the opposite when i go through load data.

Slower bullets are not more or less accurate, but loads may not achieve maximum accuracy at maximum velocity. There is usually an accuracy "sweet spot" at a point somewhere below max load.

2. Size of the projectile (how many grains). Is a heavier bullet more acurate? if so why?

Again, weight does not make an accurate bullet. Consistency makes an accurate bullet. Also, some bullets are less affected by environmental conditions, such as wind deflection. Heavier bullets are usually longer, which can provide a higher ballistics coefficient. The bullet therefore will retain its velocity downrange better than a bullet with a lower BC, and even if it starts slower it can reach the target quicker. This leaves less time for the wind to move the bullet, giving the appearance of better accuracy.

3. Crimp, does more crimp creat more pressure/velocity/accuracy? or is it just to keep the bullet in place when used in revolvers and lever guns.

Generally, crimping is not used for match rifle ammo. It adds another variable. Will it create more pressure? Perhaps, but I would think it would be minor. But if you change something in your load (say, you crimp a load that you worked up without a crimp) you should reduce the charge some and rework the load. That's the only way to be sure you haven't messed something up.

4. Overal case length - will uniformity affect acuracy at all or is it just a matter of feeding and cycling correctly?

Case length must be uniform if you are crimping (to get a consistent crimp). It must be in spec or you could potentially run into chambering problems.

5. Powders (slow burning, fast burning etc..) Which is better for what purpose? why do you need to use 15 grains of one powder and 6 grains for another for the same velocity? why wouldnt people just buy the powder with the most power per volume and get more loads per pound?

Different burn rates are required for different cartridges, depending on chamber size, bore, projectile weight, etc. You are trying to occupy most of the case volume (for an even ignition and burn) and to burn the powder in the space provided (chamber plus barrel) without having too early or excessive pressure peak. In some gas guns, such as the M1 Garand or the M14, gas pressure at the gas port is also critical, so the powder burn rate must be appropriate to meet all these constraints. If you want to see how different powders and burn rates affect pressure curves, pick up a copy of Quickload. It is eye opening.

6. primers - Do they really matter? anything wrong with using wolf or tula primers?

Again, consistency is key. Use the correct primer size, obviously, and magnum primers are necessary in some applications. Some primers are harder than others as well, which can be a consideration if you are shooting, once again, an M1 or M14 due to the floating firing pin. If you change primers, you should rework the load, as different primers can ingnite the powder differently and generate different pressures. There is nothing wrong with using Russian primers, as they are sometimes preferred in match handloading by some top competitors. If you get good results, by all means use them.

7. Shape of bullet - Spitzer vs round vs hollow point vs boat tail vs flat point etc.. do these affect acuracy at all? what is the difference between expensive match grade bullets and the cheap stuff.

Once again, consistency is key. Expensive match bullets are made to closer tolerances and are (theoretically) more consistent bullet to bullet. Bullet shape has more to do with BC and hence the retention of velocity, but any bullet shape can be accurate.

Please bear with me, i know this is alot to take in but after a while of reloading i cant seem to get the answers anywhere else. Nothing really goes into the detail i need and breaks it down like this.

Im trying to experiment with loads and its difficult to know which changes should yield which results.

No problem, that is what this forum is for. For more accurate ammunition, work to make more consistent ammunition.

One book I recommend for more advanced reloading techniques is this one: http://www.zediker.com/books/handloading/hlmain.html It is a really interesting read, tailored more towards the highpower shooter (the benchrest guys might cringe at some of what he says), but it might still be a bit too much information. And again, Quickload is a really interesting piece of software!

[PoofNoEyebrows]

4. Overal case length - will uniformity affect acuracy at all or is it just a matter of feeding and cycling correctly?

Yes this can affect accuracy you want them consistent. As to OAL I generally run the longest length I can while allowing the the rifle to cycle properly and consistently.

5. Powders (slow burning, fast burning etc..) Which is better for what purpose? why do you need to use 15 grains of one powder and 6 grains for another for the same velocity? why wouldnt people just buy the powder with the most power per volume and get more loads per pound?

These have several different applications ranging a wide area.

6. primers - Do they really matter? anything wrong with using wolf or tula primers?

YES. This will be dependent on the overall recipe you end up cooking. In my case for certain rounds such as 5.56x45 I like to use W748 which is a fine ball powder. I like to use magnum primers to help with ignition even though the load data does not call for it.

7. Shape of bullet - Spitzer vs round vs hollow point vs boat tail vs flat point etc.. do these affect acuracy at all? what is the difference between expensive match grade bullets and the cheap stuff.

This is usually a combination of function and or performance. You will need to do the research for what the intended use of the round is for. If you are going on accuracy then you will be looking at the specific ballistic coefficient vs. a hunting round where you are looking for penetration / expansion.

Bottom line is every rifle has a magic combination it likes to eats. Half the fun for me is figuring out what that is.

[Dark Mod]

So for a .357 magnum, fired out of a S&W 686 with a 4 inch barrel, shall i choose a powder that has a higher volume? Right now im using W231, which max load is like 6.5 grn, this doesnt even fill up the cartridge halfway. Shall i use something else, like W296 that max load is like 16 grn? this would full up much more of the cartridge.

The only experiemnting ive been doing is with different load sizes and bullets. Shall i experiemnt with other powders as well?

What are the telltale signs im looking for if im using the wrong powder? It seems like rifles would need a slower burning powder while most handguns would use faster burning powder....

When your "working up" a load, what increments do you use? 1 grain intervals? .5 grain intervals?

Is there a good way to go about trying different powders? I would hate to buy 15 pounds of powder to find the right one and let the other 14 go to waste. Is there something more scientific i could use? Would it be like calculating the length of my barrel, length of cartrdige, weight of bullet etc.. and come to the conclusion that i need a bulky fast burning powder or a compact slow burning one?

What are the characteristics of match grade ammo, and how would i duplicate it? Do they publish their recipes so i can duplicate it and tweak it from there?

Do i need more expensive powder/bullet/primer/brass components or is it just a matter of experimenting with random components until i find what works best with my particular weapon?

Do i need to consider Range into the equation? if im trying to build a handgun load that is good at 200 yards would i do anything differently than if i was going for extreme precision at say 25 yards? Ive been loading for velocity to try and flatten the trajectory as much as possible for hitting 200 yards, but its difficult to get consistency....

How do i improve consistency? do i need to weigh each charge and bullet?

Sorry for the billion questions

[Divernhunter]

The fact is if you want the most speed the powder that gives you the most with a longer barrel will also give you the most with a short barrel. This usually will be a slower powder.It will also give more muzzle blast. In a 357/44mag/454casull etc that means using H-110/Win296 for example. The whole fast powder in a short barrel is pure junk if you want max speed. It may be more effient but the powder that gives the most speed in a longer barrel will also do so in a short barrel using the same load data. I have tried this with different barrel lenghts and cartridges(rifle and pistol) over my chronograph. Doing so will really open your eyes as to what you are really getting with different loads and such. Also accuracy with H-110 has always been excellent in many different firearms/cartridges over the years for me with max loads. I have shot a ton of 44mag with H-110 and the harder you push them the better the group. NEVER go below the starting load when using H-110 or Win296 or you could have some real dangers. IF you want something less then use a different powder such as Unique or whatever.

[SixPointEight]

As for why peopme dont always use the most economical powder, in large cases, a complete fill of the case can be beneficial to consistency. Thats one reason. Another is that uber fast powders are very sensitive. Small changes in seating depth, charge wieght etc can cause catastrophic pressure spikes. A third reason is, if the powder charge falls to the side of the case with the bullet, when the primer ignites, sparks will be thrown and detonate the powder. Detonations each create a pressure wave and when they meet it can be bad as well. Thats the same concept as detonation in a car cylinder

[SixPointEight]

You ask a lot of the right questions.

The only experiemnting ive been doing is with different load sizes and bullets. Shall i experiemnt with other powders as well?

What are the telltale signs im looking for if im using the wrong powder? It seems like rifles would need a slower burning powder while most handguns would use faster burning powder....

In short, yes, try other powders. Pistols do use faster powders than rifles, that's true.

When your "working up" a load, what increments do you use? 1 grain intervals? .5 grain intervals?

Rifles I like to do about 1% of charge weight. That means around .3gr for .223, .5gr for .308 etc.

For pistols I usually work up in .1gr. You won't go wrong using 5 divisions between the min and max load, though. You may jump by .2gr, but it should still be safe.

Is there a good way to go about trying different powders? I would hate to buy 15 pounds of powder to find the right one and let the other 14 go to waste. Is there something more scientific i could use? Would it be like calculating the length of my barrel, length of cartrdige, weight of bullet etc.. and come to the conclusion that i need a bulky fast burning powder or a compact slow burning one?

The best way is actually a process. Step one, look at what kinds of powders are meant for your cartridge. Is it a handgun? Rifle? Small bore/big bore? Step two, decide what you're looking for. Accuracy, velocity? Then go to your loading manual, it will usually indicate a most accurate load, and fastest is easily determined. Once you have that TALK TO PEOPLE. Other people have done what you want to do. Other people have tried things, some worked, some didn't. That knowledge is wasted if it isn't shared.

What are the characteristics of match grade ammo, and how would i duplicate it? Do they publish their recipes so i can duplicate it and tweak it from there?

One word. Consistency. There isn't published loads. They use special blends of powders to get what they want. The nearest you can get is the bullet, case and primer to be the same. Then you're gonna start experimenting with powders. Make every case as close to precisely the same as you can, and you're on the right track.

Do i need to consider Range into the equation? if im trying to build a handgun load that is good at 200 yards would i do anything differently than if i was going for extreme precision at say 25 yards? Ive been loading for velocity to try and flatten the trajectory as much as possible for hitting 200 yards, but its difficult to get consistency....

Waste of time. Flat trajectories are the byproduct of many things, one of the most important is a nice ballistic coefficient. Handguns...don't have that, so you can try to add velocity, but in that case you'll want a light bullet. A light bullet will be tossed around by the wind, the answer to that is a heavy bullet. See where this is going? You won't get a nice flat trajectory from handgun ammo.

How do i improve consistency? do i need to weigh each charge and bullet?

That's a START. Start with new cases, of the same headstamp. Size them, uniform the primer pockets, trim them to nominal length. Sort them by weight. You can sort bullets by weight and length. Seat your bullets by measuring to the ogive, instead of the meplat(tip), hand weight powder charges to the nearest .1gr or less. Use a powder that give you good fill %, use a consistent primer. This is a bottomless pit. You can put as much into loading consistently as you can imagine. In a handgun round, imo it's a waste of time.

[Dark Mod]

Why Jt1989 you are just a plethora of knowledge. If you load for .357 magnum, 30-30, .223, or 7.62x54r would you mind sharing some of your pet loads? as well as any special steps or details you would normally use?

[sonnyt650]

Out of that list I only load for .223, though maybe someday .357 magnum. The .223 load has a really strong dependency on the rifle where some folks with good rifles get down into sub MOA even with factory ammo. On the other hand loading for my "long range" AR I've done everything I could including varying powder amount in increments of 0.2 grain, and for a good charge I can only get to 1.5 or so inches at 100 yards -- blowing up above 4 inches for a charge that's 0.5 grains off from optimal. Obviously a load that works (to some extent) on that .223 rifle won't necessarily be the best load on another rifle.

In contrast since the .308 Remington 700 SPS Varmint has a single source manufacturer, I've been able to use the pet loads from places like Sniper's Hide and recently confirmed here (thanks AlliedArmory) with results that are good enough that I'm working on my shooting rather than load tuning. Looking over your list of steps I think you've got a couple in there that I just don't do such as the primer pocket uniforming and weighing every bullet/case stuff, but I'm not trying to reduce much further and instead working on that rock-solid hold without flyers.

[PoofNoEyebrows]

JT1989,
Learned something new from you thanks. Why I love these forums. After taking your statement on burn rate vs. barrel length and doing some quick research it appears what I was always told is absolutely wrong. Good to know.