Going to start loading rifle rounds, few questions

[SchooBaka]

Hey all.
I've been loading 45acp on my dillon xl 650 for a couple years now.
Recently I decided to move up to rifle rounds. To start with I'm going to be loading 300 savage.
What's the advantages/disadvanteges to using a 2 die set vs. 3 die set.
I'm going to be using a 70's vintage savage 99 for deer and pigs.
I've got 2 different boxes of 30 call projectiles that I'm wondering if I should use, both sierra jacketed soft point.
.30 cal .308 diameter 180 gr. Spitzer Flat Base
.30 cal 165 gr. Spitzer Boat Tail
Any one got some powder recommendations?
Favorite Recipe's?

Thanks

[bruce_ventura]

Since you're talking pigs and brushy coastal California, I would favor the 180 gr bullet. Your Savage 99 is a great gun for that application. if you don't think so, sell it to me and get yourself something else!

My Lee handbook likes Accurate 2520 and XMR-2495 for that bullet and cartridge. In the lead-free area, i would go with Barnes 168 gr TSX.

Sight in for a 200 yd zero and your point blank range will be about 235 yds. With elevation correction, you can ethically take game out to at least 300 yds.

[pennstater]

For your 165's, try IMR 4064. You've been handloading already, so you have manuals, correct? IMR 4064 should fill the bill. You'd get better velocity with some 150's, but those 165's will certainly do. Hope this helps.

[bruce_ventura]

Oh yea, I haven't seen a need for any thing more than a full length sizer and bullet seater.

[Tzvia]

While I don't reload 300 Savage and can't help you there, I do reload a number of rifle calibers. Typically, rifle dies are two die affairs. For some calibers, such as 32Winchester Special, there are three die sets available (sometimes called 'cowboy') for use with lead bullets. Other times, you get the standard two (full length resize and seat) plus a neck die (used to neck size only to keep the fired brass formed to your chamber). In some LEE sets, they add their factory crimp die for those calibers that use a crimp.

I'm no fan of LEE dies, with the exception of their Factory crimp die, and the fact that they offer dies in calibers that would either be a lot more expensive or just plain real hard to get. I prefer Redding. Just really well made stuff IMO. Worth the extra.

You will probably find that reloading bottleneck rifle ammo on a 650 to be a pain (I've got one, I know). You have to lube the cases to resize, then clean them before continuing so it kills the whole progressive press bit. I ended up buying a single stage press for rifle reloading (a Redding Big Boss). I'm not saying it can't be done on the 650, but invest in two toolheads for it. Lube, resize through the progressive. Tumble brass to remove the lube. Swap the toolhead, run it through to prime, powder, check and seat. Crimp in the last station if the caliber/bullet requires one.

[Rwnielsen]

I resize on a single stage as well. The 650 doesn't meter stick powders very well either. I load .308 plinkers on it with Varget but the charge weight is inconsistent. You might do better with a short grain powder but...IMO a single stage is the way to go for rifle loading.

[bruce_ventura]

Another thought: does it really make sense for you to buy all the reloading components and gear for this caliber and develop a load, just to go hunting? What do you expect to shoot, may 20 rounds/yr? That's only one box at $30/box. You might be better off just buying factory ammo.

[pennstater]

He reloads! He likes it. Maybe he'll buy more rifles. More components. More shooting.
Whats not to like?

[hk91666]

My savage 99 .300 savage I use 150gr hornady vmax and RE-15 @ 40.5grs. Start lower and work up to 40.5 as it approaches slight pressure signs over this. My 99 is 1950's era was getting 2500fps with 40.5grs.

I loaded 5 rounds each from 39.0 to 41.0 in .5 gr increments at 41.0 & 41.5 primers were "flowing" and extraction was getting tougher.

I could not find much published on this round in my books so since it was predecessor of {.308 (7.62x51) I use 42.0gr Re-15 with sierra 168gr} I picked a mix similar and worked down from there from the .308 as pressures have to be lower with the savage 99's action.

Best of luck

[Tzvia]

Another thought: does it really make sense for you to buy all the reloading components and gear for this caliber and develop a load, just to go hunting? What do you expect to shoot, may 20 rounds/yr? That's only one box at $30/box. You might be better off just buying factory ammo.

Yea it's easy to go over the top so to speak. There is more to reloading than saving money (which can be done if you A. shot enough, or B. watch what you buy.)

I got frustrated loading rifle on my 650. No fault of the press, I think it's really more of a pistol/straight wall caliber press. So I went and bought a little RCBS Partner press. It worked better for rifle reloading, using a digital scale and trickler. I did not have to futz with breaking down my 650 and and having to check my powder throws all the time. I got more accurately made rounds with less hassle. Later on, I upgraded to an Redding Big Boss-beefier and more room to work in the larger press opening. I relegated the little RCBS to priming duty, using a press mounted lee primer. I then bought the Lyman 1200 electronic dispenser. Oh wow, talk about being pampered. Yes this stuff costs money, but you choose your comfort level based on how much you shoot vs how easily you want to have accurate repeatable results. I charge 5 cases, inspect, and while the dispenser is metering between charging the next 5, I seat the previous 5. Accurate, repeatable, futz free. Worth it to me. I started hand cranking my brass trimming, yuck, now I have the drill motor adapter and just wiz through it.

To the OP, just remember that the lube on the case really should be removed IMO before the case hits the seater die (unless you like breaking down your dies to clean them all the time). I won't put a lubed case in my seaters. It's best to just use two toolheads to lessen the futz factor- resize, clean, swap heads, finish. Watch your metering as was mentioned here before (I don't know why someone has not come up with a better stick powder dispenser for the Dillons...) Considering the cost of a toolhead and conversion kit- it would probably be in the same neighborhood as a basic press like the RCBS Partner.

[SchooBaka]

Thanks for all the responses.
As far as buying factory ammo, it's expensive and not much selection as far as different projectiles. I don't think I've even found any led free 300 savage yet; and I do plan on shooting more than 20 rounds a year to become and stay proficient with the gun and scope.

Still shopping for a scope as the old weaver k4 would not zero out. One of my shooting buddies is trying to convince me that I can't live without a parralax adjustment; is he right?

I've got an old rock chucker I plan on setting up for the resizing station, then run em through the 650 after cleaning.

I've also got an old rcbs uniflow II powder measure; do these measure stick propellants well? I thought I saw somewhere that you could mount one of these on a dillon press in place of the dillon powder measure.

I've got a whole bunch of old and not so old cans of powder that a friend gave me. Is there any way to tell if the powder is still good other than loading up some rounds and trying it out?

[SchooBaka]

Also, was able to save about 40 bucks on the calibur conversion since I already had the press set up for 45 acp. I spent the money I saved on a maint and spare parts kit, as well as some ammo boxes.

[Rwnielsen]

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23634/catid/3/Powder_Measure_Adapter

...says you can use any powder measure

[bruce_ventura]

Parallax adjustment for a deer/pig rifle? I don't think so. I recommend a low mag range: 1.5-6X to 3-9X is optimum and parallax adjustment isn't needed for a magnification below 10X. Higher mag limits field of view, which slows down target acquisition. You need to get on big game fast in the hilly and brushy terrain we have here in California.