I'm going to be reloading for the first Time with a lee 1000 turret press I have ordered the lee bible but not sure what powder I won't to use I need to now all the little tricks open to all suggestions I will be reloading 9mm and 40sw
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Going go reload for the first time
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Is your period key broken?
For a new loader I recommend medium to slow burning powders like Unique, W231, ect...
WST is what I use and really like it.Last edited by XDRoX; 04-04-2011, 8:32 AM.Chris
<----Rimfire Addict
Originally posted by OceanbobGet a DILLON... -
Unique and W231 are fine powders. Bullseye and Titegroup are also excellent powders for those rounds.
Just so you know, the Lee 1000, while a fine machine, is actually a fully automatic progressive press. That is, more than one station will operate at a time. If this is your first time reloading, please be very careful, because progressive presses of any sort are by nature kinda complex. I typically recommend that new reloaders start out with an inexpensive single-stage press and a hand primer before trying out any progressive press. This is for your safety.
That said, if you do want to "start out" on a progressive, then I suggest that you do only one round at a time, like a "traditional" turret press, and GO SLOWLY. Learn the machine and all of its strengths and weaknesses. You should do 1,000 rounds like this before you try the "progressive" mode."San Francisco Liberal With A Gun"
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To be a true Liberal, you must be 100% pro-Second Amendment. Anything less is inconsistent with liberalism.Comment
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Good advice. And as long as we are talking about safety, leave the TG and BE on the shelf for the guys that want to blow up their guns.Unique and W231 are fine powders. Bullseye and Titegroup are also excellent powders for those rounds.
Just so you know, the Lee 1000, while a fine machine, is actually a fully automatic progressive press. That is, more than one station will operate at a time. If this is your first time reloading, please be very careful, because progressive presses of any sort are by nature kinda complex. I typically recommend that new reloaders start out with an inexpensive single-stage press and a hand primer before trying out any progressive press. This is for your safety.
That said, if you do want to "start out" on a progressive, then I suggest that you do only one round at a time, like a "traditional" turret press, and GO SLOWLY. Learn the machine and all of its strengths and weaknesses. You should do 1,000 rounds like this before you try the "progressive" mode.
(Flame suit on)
Seriously though, IMO newbies should use powders that fill the case minimizing the chance of a double charge. If you must use a fast powder, then stick to a bulky one, not BE or TG.
Just my opinion.Chris
<----Rimfire Addict
Originally posted by OceanbobGet a DILLON...Comment
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Double charges and squib loads are the most common. Double charges are the most dangerous as a double charge in 9mm or 40 with a fast powder like TG or BE will kaboom your gun and possibly injure you. My guess is that most of the kabooms you see online were loaded with a low density uber fast powder like BE or TG.
I know I'm in the minority here. I know lots of guys really like BE and TG, but the fact remains that it is impossible to double load a 9mm case using a bulkier powder like WST. 4.8gr of WST fills the case 80% of the way. Impossible to double load it. Not to mention just as accurate as BE or TG and way cleaner.
Powder is not where you want to save money. When I load with BE it costs me $.007 per round. WST costs me $.012 per round. For the little bit of extra cost I buy the assurance that none of my rounds contain a double charge.
Squibs aren't as dangerous as long as you know to look for them when you're shooting. If your automatic gun doesn't cycle, then check for a squib. If you feel a really soft shot or don't see your bullet hit the target in your revolver, then check for a squib.Last edited by XDRoX; 04-04-2011, 10:56 AM.Chris
<----Rimfire Addict
Originally posted by OceanbobGet a DILLON...Comment
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I always look at the powder charge before loading the bullet. I mean you have to look so you get the bullet in the mouth of the case so it's not much extra trouble to appraise the powder load. You can't judge the load to the 1/10th of a grain but you will know if it is more or less than the first one you dropped and weighed.
take care
MikeComment
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Good advice. When I teach someone to reload. I sit there and watch them to make sure they look into every case before placing the bullet. Teach them right from the beginning and it'll be habit. Always look into the case before seating the bullet and you'll be fine. Of course this isn't always possible in all rounds (like 38spl or 357), but when possible it's a good practice.I always look at the powder charge before loading the bullet. I mean you have to look so you get the bullet in the mouth of the case so it's not much extra trouble to appraise the powder load. You can't judge the load to the 1/10th of a grain but you will know if it is more or less than the first one you dropped and weighed.
take care
MikeChris
<----Rimfire Addict
Originally posted by OceanbobGet a DILLON...Comment
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Good advice Chris......
Especially about TITE GROUP. Easy to double charge and could blow up more than the case.Double charges and squib loads are the most common. Double charges are the most dangerous as a double charge in 9mm or 40 with a fast powder like TG or BE will kaboom your gun and possibly injure you. My guess is that most of the kabooms you see online were loaded with a low density uber fast powder like BE or TG.
I know I'm in the minority here. I know lots of guys really like BE and TG, but the fact remains that it is impossible to double load a 9mm case using a bulkier powder like WST. 4.8gr of WST fills the case 80% of the way. Impossible to double load it. Not to mention just as accurate as BE or TG and way cleaner.
Powder is not where you want to save money. When I load with BE it costs me $.007 per round. WST costs me $.012 per round. For the little bit of extra cost I buy the assurance that none of my rounds contain a double charge.
Squibs aren't as dangerous as long as you know to look for them when you're shooting. If your automatic gun doesn't cycle, then check for a squib. If you feel a really soft shot or don't see your bullet hit the target in your revolver, then check for a squib.
Here's the caption on these photos:
Well this is what a KKM Smile looks like with WAY too much Tite-Group powder and a short COL of solid copper LONG bullet, 8.6 gr and 140 lead free long bullets sat at 1.250 COL=

Notice how the primers GOT BLOWN OUT Backwards..?..wow.

The case on the right is a normal Starline new case for comparison.
Here's the thread
I'am sticking to AA#5 and 9, 800X or Longshot for my 10MM adventures
BobMay the Bridges I burn light the way.
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Fewer people are killed with all rifles each year (323 in 2011) than with shotguns (356), hammers and clubs (496), and hands and feet (728).Comment
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Go slow, enjoy yourself
Welcome to the reloading forum.
Your doing the right thing getting a reloading manual. My advice is to read the whole thing, even the parts that don't seem to apply to what you are going to load. There will be things in there that helps answer some of the questions raised in other sections.
Second thing to do is read it again.
The more you understand the easier it will all become.
I would recommend buying a bullet puller before you start. You can get one of the cheaper hammer style jobs, or if you are like me and like a little more precision in the process, get one of the collet style die sets (I have the RCBS puller die).
When you first start loading for real, go slow and make sure you understand what is going on in each step. When in doubt, stop and ask questions. As you go along, if you suspect you may have missed a step or did a double charge, pull the bullets and check. You will find that usually everything is OK. As time goes on and you get more familar with the process, you will have to pull fewer and fewer bullets to verify everything is OK.
There is a lot of great advice available on these threads. Like any internet site, you will get a lot of opinions stated as facts. Just because someone is pedantic doesn't mean they don't know what they are talking about and. of course, vice versa. If there is a conflict between what the book says to do and what someone here says, go by what the book says, at least until your own experience resolves the conflict.
Have fun, load small batches at first, get that bullet puller.
When asked what qualities he most valued in his generals, Napoleon said, "give me lucky ones."Comment
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You have received very good advise from reloaders who have been reloading for 30 + years.
My addition to the thread:
A few rules of thumb for reloaders:
Buy at least three different reloading manuals and read them cover to cover then reread them.
Remember you are dealing with things that just love to go boom and if your not careful that boom can be real painful in many ways!!!
Go slow, check everything three to four times. Reloading is all about the details.
Your powder scale is your best friend! Know how to use it!
Have questions, no such thing as a dumb question when reloading!
We are here to help. Since we have probably made all the mistakes that your going to make.
ChiefLast edited by Chief-7700; 04-04-2011, 9:54 PM.
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