Crimping die

[Bert Gamble]

Hi again,
As you all know I am getting the Rock Chucker Supreme Deluxe Reloading Kit delivered from Cabelas in a few days. Already delivered is a set of 3 RCBS dies. The set has one die that is for seating and crimping, but I am wondering if that is sufficient for the taper crimp on a 45 ACP. Would it be better to get one of the Lee factory crimping dies. This would of course be an additional step, but is it worth it?

Thanks

[Chief-7700]

Hi again,
As you all know I am getting the Rock Chucker Supreme Deluxe Reloading Kit delivered from Cabelas in a few days. Already delivered is a set of 3 RCBS dies. The set has one die that is for seating and crimping, but I am wondering if that is sufficient for the taper crimp on a 45 ACP. Would it be better to get one of the Lee factory crimping dies. This would of course be an additional step, but is it worth it?

Thanks

RCBS taper crimp die will work just fine.

[Bigdaa]

RCBS taper crimp die will work just fine.

+1 fer shure


Keep in mind that for seating and crimping in ONE step, your cases must be very close to the same length, say +/- .003"
I personally like to crimp in a separate step but I'm not in a hurry. I usually separate my brass in to two different length ranges, too boot to mostly put off the time I have to spend on the trimmer.

[XDRoX]

Since you'll be loading on a single stage, it would be a whole extra step to seat and crimp with two dies. So I would just use the seat/crimp combo. They are a little more work to set up, but work great. If you do decide to seat and crimp in different stages, then I'd just buy another of your same dies, not a Lee Factory Crimp Die. The LFCD does more than just apply a standard crimp.

[ireload]

I would purchase a seperate crimp die. Either RCBS or Lee would work just fine. That additional step is not much if you are loading in small batches (less than 300 rounds at a time in my book).

Some would state you do not need to trim the brass but I do since brass lenght is not consistent from brand to brand. It will give you more of a uniform crimp in the long run anyway.

[Bert Gamble]

I was planning on trimming them to whatever the manual says to since the kit I bought comes with an Trim Pro case trimmer and the Trim Pro Case prep center. I will probably pick up the motor to make it easy. Do the manuals tell you how long the cases should be, or should I try to measure an unfired factory load?

Chief-7700, I think I read that you are the resident 45 ACP loading expert. Do you trim your cases? What is your favorite powder? I won't ask for load data because I plan on starting at the minimum and working my way up.

That brings up another question. Jeez, I have so many you guys will be sick of me. Since I will be using plated bullets, I am supposed to reduce the starting load by 10% of what the manual says for FMJ. If the starting load is 4.5 (Hypotheticaly), I would reduce by .45 for a load of 4.05. Is it important to weigh out the powder to the hundredth of a gram? Would I round up, since at the minimum, going low could cause a squib?

[Divernhunter]

It is GRAINS not grams unless you plan to blow up the gun. You will not be able to weigh to .01 only .1 and do not go below min charges especially with some powders like H-110 or Win296 or you could be in danger. Plated are like jacketed to me.

BUY the Lyman manual and read it---twice. That will answer most Questions.

[sonnyt650]

I found that the Lyman manual doesn't describe the difference and reasoning behind taper crimps versus roll crimps, while the Lee manual did. A roll crimp is essentially squishing the lip into the bullet using a shoulder in the seating die, and the crimp amount is dictated by the length of the individual cases. In other words to get a consistent crimp the case lengths all need to be consistent. Although the Lee manual provides that information to sell the FCD, it totally makes sense that by pushing the sides of the case cylinder inward that crimp amount doesn't vary with case length. I don't trim handgun cases to a consistent length -- that would SUCK!

[Bert Gamble]

It is GRAINS not grams unless you plan to blow up the gun. You will not be able to weigh to .01 only .1 and do not go below min charges especially with some powders like H-110 or Win296 or you could be in danger. Plated are like jacketed to me.

BUY the Lyman manual and read it---twice. That will answer most Questions.

I really did mean grains, not grams. Pretty sure the scale reads in grains anyway, and I am certain that a 45 case will not hold 78 grains (which it would have to do if i made the grams mistake) even if I wanted to pack it in there. I have the ABC's of Reloading and Speers #14 manual. They are at my house but I am 9000 miles from home right now. I intend to read both of them, long before my first round is loaded. I hope that asking questions before I read isn't a big problem. It is how I pass the time over here.

[MRG2680]

I use the L.F.C.D. on the 30 carbine ammo I reload and love it. It doesn't take long to crimp in a separate step. Although I do have a custom-built case feeder on my rock chucker. My 4 year old son.

[uscbigdawg]

The factory die is fine and weighing to the tenth is more than enough.