Rebarreling a Mauser K98

[bruce_ventura]

I have a sporterized Mauser that I bought on impulse at a gun show a long while back. It's chambered in .270 Win and I would like to rechamber it in .243 Win for long rang varmint / benchrest shooting with less recoil. The gunsmith did a decent job welding on a bend bolt handle, bedding the stock and installing scope mounts. I'm taking this on for the experience and to keep the costs below my wife's radar.

I have a lathe and could start from a barrel blank, but this time I will take a short-cut and get the barrel threaded and chambered. It appears that I can get the barrel either 1) short chambered, which requires the purchase of a ~$100 finish reamer (in addition to the headspace gauges), or 2) long chambered, which requires a lathe (which I conveniently have) to shorten the breech, but not the finish reamer (saving me ~$100).

Other than the cost, does it really make a difference? I would appreciate the hearing from anyone who has experience with either route. If I go the latter route, I will by the barrel from either Douglas or Pac-Nor. Any preference?

Incidentally, I have a friend with a lot of experience building rifles on Mauser actions. He will look over my shoulder through the process.

Bruce

[ar15barrels]

I have a sporterized Mauser that I bought on impulse at a gun show a long while back. It's chambered in .270 Win and I would like to rechamber it in .243 Win for long rang varmint / benchrest shooting with less recoil. The gunsmith did a decent job welding on a bend bolt handle, bedding the stock and installing scope mounts. I'm taking this on for the experience and to keep the costs below my wife's radar.

I have a lathe and could start from a barrel blank, but this time I will take a short-cut and get the barrel threaded and chambered. It appears that I can get the barrel either 1) short chambered, which requires the purchase of a ~$100 finish reamer (in addition to the headspace gauges), or 2) long chambered, which requires a lathe (which I conveniently have) to shorten the breech, but not the finish reamer (saving me ~$100).

Other than the cost, does it really make a difference? I would appreciate the hearing from anyone who has experience with either route. If I go the latter route, I will by the barrel from either Douglas or Pac-Nor. Any preference?

Incidentally, I have a friend with a lot of experience building rifles on Mauser actions. He will look over my shoulder through the process.

Bruce

Go with the long chambered barrel.
Square and lap your action before taking final headspace depth measurements.
Drop the headspace gauge into the barrel and trim off the torque shoulder and breech faces as required.
Read the Kuhnhausen book.

[bruce_ventura]

ar15barrels,

Thanks for the advice. I ordered the Kuhnhausen book last weekend.

Just looked at your website. Very cool. I am humbled.

Bruce

[ccampbell]

First check how big as barrel your lathe will handle, my 7 x 12 won't take more than 1/2 inch through the chuck. If yours won't either, then get a short chamber and rent a reamer ($30 - $40).

http://www.reamerrentals.com/chamber_reamers.htm

If your lathe will handle the barrel, listen to ar15barrels.
Chris

[bruce_ventura]

ccampbell,

Good point. I recently upgraded from a 9" to a 14" lathe. I had limited barrel work in mind (along with other projects) when I made the change. The smallest bore through the chuck and spindle is 1.5".