223/556 Brass Reloading Question

[ffbsm85]

Just about to finish my AR and I'd like to eventually start reloading. So my question is, as I start collecting my spent brass, which should I hold onto to reload? I'll probably mostly shot XM193 and I will keep that brass, but what about remington, federal, etc. Basically I want to find an ammo brand that my rifle likes, but that I also can reload. Maybe a better question is what brass do I not want to hold onto... I know some brass is better then others, but does it mostly come down to inspecting the brass and as long as it's still good, use it?

[SuperSet]

I keep all of it but sort it into mixed for 55gr and LC09 for 77gr. At the ranges for which you'll be shooting 55gr, brass won't matter much IME. You're not shooting for groups with 55s.

[rsrocket1]

Agreed. If you are simply plinking with the AR w/55g fmjbt's look for a mid range load that cycles your AR and shoots decent groups. Don't try to squeeze every last fps or 1/4 moa out of it and your loads will be fine. Remember that 5.56 brass has less volume in it and will shoot with higher velocities and higher pressures with the same amount of powder, but if you are using a mid range load, it shouldn't be a problem.

So the only brass you do not want to hold on to would be Berdan primed brass. Unless you know what to use them for and how to prep the cases, I would say steel cased Boxer primed .223 also, although many others (me included) do reload them.

Note also that most military surplus fired brass have crimped primers and you will need to know how to swage or ream the primer pockets if you want to use them.

[ffbsm85]

Agreed. If you are simply plinking with the AR w/55g fmjbt's look for a mid range load that cycles your AR and shoots decent groups. Don't try to squeeze every last fps or 1/4 moa out of it and your loads will be fine. Remember that 5.56 brass has less volume in it and will shoot with higher velocities and higher pressures with the same amount of powder, but if you are using a mid range load, it shouldn't be a problem.

So the only brass you do not want to hold on to would be Berdan primed brass. Unless you know what to use them for and how to prep the cases, I would say steel cased Boxer primed .223 also, although many others (me included) do reload them.

Note also that most military surplus fired brass have crimped primers and you will need to know how to swage or ream the primer pockets if you want to use them.

I plan on swagging or reaming the xm193 I will be shooting, but what ammo is berdan and boxer primed? Like foriegn stuff right?

Also for future reference, when I use like xm193 brass instead of like regular remington .223 brass, I'll have to use a little less powder? Do you suggest I find a good load for .223 brass and then find a different load with 5.56?

[GeoffLinder]

For reloading .223 (5.56, no real difference really), I would recommend keeping Lake City (LC headstamp) and WW brass as top priority, best stuff. Federal and Remington also worth keeping.

One batch/headstamp is best for acccuracy loading, mixed headstamp fine for plinking.

I have reloaded PMC brass but it ain't as good, the above mentioned brands are the gold standard for keeping and reloading.

You will find crimped primers on XM and other mil-spec ammo, sometimes on commercial ammo too. Best to plan on swaging the primer pockets on everything

I would avoid foreign surplus stuff in general and chinese/com-bloc sourced brass specifically. The exception is IMI brass as it's good stuff but best kept to it's own batch as it's internal volume is less than most because it's really thick stuff.

As far as XM versus commercial, weigh the cases, if they are within a couple grains of the .223 stuff, just treat it the same unless you are pushing the envelope with primer piercing max load recipes.

JMHO, YMMV

[Dirty506]

you need a good reloading book and it will answer a lot of questions and you will learn a lot. be safe with your loads and if you arent sure about somehting stop... do some research. ask questions. its not worth possibly ruining your AR and getting hurt. these guys know what they are talking about. good luck with your build and enjoy the reloading world. it is addictive. i love it.

[bumpo628]

You will have a hard time finding Berdan .223

[SixPointEight]

Remember that 5.56 brass has less volume in it and will shoot with higher velocities and higher pressures with the same amount of powder, but if you are using a mid range load, it shouldn't be a problem.

This is FUD and comes from .308 and .30-06. Most military .223/5.56 brass has MORE volume than commercial equivalents. The smallest military cases I've found have pretty similar volume to commercial. Most commercial brass has slightly less capacity. Reduce a tenth or two when going from MILITARY into COMMERCIAL.

[LGB Loader]

you need a good reloading book and it will answer a lot of questions and you will learn a lot. be safe with your loads and if you arent sure about somehting stop... do some research. ask questions. its not worth possibly ruining your AR and getting hurt. these guys know what they are talking about. good luck with your build and enjoy the reloading world. it is addictive. i love it.

Well played. You can ask alot of questions, but you really need to put in the hours of reading.
My Uncle Joe's Lymans Manual 45 was the first manual I used when I learned to how to handload for my 357 Mag when I was 16. When Lyman's 46th came out, this was the first manual I bought/owned and it basically taught me how to handload everything. I have bought every new Lyman edition since. 47th is okay, 48th is my favorite, 49th i bought both paperback and hard cover (I have no idea why...)

you need a couple of good manuals for reference. I like the Lyman books. Hornady is good as well as sierra for a second. for quick reference, the Hogdon's annual is good to keep around.

Happy Trails...

LGB