Use the same load for 38 and 357?

[Toy4Rick]

Hey gang,

I have some 38 and 357 brass to reload, however I don't want to buy SP Mag primers for the 357s. Is there any reason why I can't just load the 357 exactly like a 38 with the proper OAL? Same powder/charge, primer, bullet?

Don't need 357 mag loads for creating paper holes

Toy4Rick

[pepsi2451]

I don't see why not. My manual only recommends a mag primer for a few different powders in .357 mag. What kind of powder are you using?

[GeoffLinder]

No reason not to. Downloading is not a problem in this case size. As long as the bullets make it out of the barrel you are good to go here

[CSACANNONEER]

I have always used regular SPP for both. I wouldn't even bother loading the .357 brass with light (.38 speacial) loads unless, you don't have a lot of brass or, you are going to use the .357 brass to distinguish between two different .38 speacial loads. But, you should be just fine if you do what you are proposing.

[f4tweet]

Be careful of a double charge of powder in the longer case.

[CSACANNONEER]

Be careful of a double charge of powder in the longer case.

It's just as easy to double charge a .38 special.

[Toy4Rick]

Thanks everyone for the input.

We don't have a lot of either which is why the desire to use the same load. We use Titegroup and the max charge for a 38 is 3.9gr and double charging on a Lee Pro 1000 is almost impossible.

Thanks again
Rick

[checkenbach]

I use the same 158 grn HBWC load(3.0 grns Titegroup) in .38/.357
I use the .357 load in my TC Contender fo scoped bullseye, the .38 load is used in revolvers.
Regular SPP used in both.

[Revoman]

I believe that if you load a 357 case to 38 specs you are supposed to bump the powder by .1 as sometimes the there are position sensitive or pressure issues.

Other than that, they work real well for punching paper.

[NotEnoughGuns]

I like trailboss for soft 357 loads, no double charges with TB.

[Twinspool]

You don't use magnum primers just because the cartridge name contains it! They're load and powder specific.

[Cowboy T]

+1 to Twinspool. It's a function of the powder and how hard or easy it is to ignite. H110/W296 typically require magnum primers to get reliable igition. However, Titegroup, Bullseye, W231, and 2400 do not require magnum primers, nor do most other typical handgun powders.

I use regular small pistol primers in both .38 and .357 cases as my normal practice. Out of just over 20,000 rounds, I have now had two FTF's. One of them was because there was dirt in the bottom of the case (thus the powder didn't get any flame), and the other one turned out to be a previously-used primer that got in the tray (oops).

Since you have a Pro 1000, you also have the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure. That thing is dead-on precise--set it and forget it. If you want one good charge, then I'd suggest going with a .38 Spl +P load for the .38 Spl cases, and use that load for .357M. This way, you will be just under that in the .357M cases without risking pills in the barrel.

Optimal, though, is to develop separate loads for each case, as I have done. I have one charge of Bullseye powder for .38 Spl, and another, slightly hotter, one for light .357M.

[LGB Loader]

I use 357 Mag brass to load 38 special type reduced loads and have so for quite some time. I don't have 38 special revolvers any more and only have 357 revolvers. Shooting 38 spcl brass in 357 Mag revolvers leaves the dreaded carbon ring which I hate spending the time to clean. Call me lazy...

I only shoot lead projo's for these types of rounds (which I cast/lube/size myself) but I don't see why you couldn't load plated as well. I save my XTP's for full power (think H110 or W296).

This is for revolver only. Rifle is another beast and should be handled accordingly to avoid a stuck projo in the barrel.

I hope this helps.

LGB