Unique or 231

[MaHoTex]

I am new to reloading and currently reload 9mm and 357/38 and have been using Unique for both loads so far. I have found that it is pretty dirty when used with the 357/38 and am considering switching to Win231 for both.

Will I find the Win231 to be cleaner when used in the 357? The unique seems to be dirty and creates quite a bit of smoke. Maybe I am doing something wrong with the load?

357 load data used
158 GR Round Nose Bullet
1.58" OAL
5.6-6.0 Grains Unique (same results)

38 load data used
158 GR Round Nose Bullet
1.42 OAL
3.8-4.2 Grains Unique (same results)

Maybe the powder load is just too light?

Anyway, stick with Unique or give Win231 a try?

[Sheldon]

You can play around with the amount of powder you use and it will make a difference in how clean it burns. I like the finer grained 231 as it will meter thru the powder measure more uniformly. It will take less 231 for the same velocity as your getting with the Unique. It will be tougher to see into a long case like the .38 spl and 357 mag for powder verification. Some guys like a bulky powder so it fills the case up better. It is nice to at least try different powders if you find your current choice lacking in some way. There are a lot of choices out there.

[Lead Waster]

I would say try 231. Part of the fun of reloading is trying different loads. If you just stick to unique, you might be missing out on a better load (or not). Different guns with different calibers/barrel lengths will shoot differently, you might end up using unique for one gun's load and 231 in another!

[MaHoTex]

I am afraid to up the powder load though. I am happy with the 9mm load, but the 357 is just way smokey and dirty. I am afraid if I up the powder it will blow me up or something.

I see the range in all the recipes show I am good for a few more grains, so maybe I will give it a shot before dumping the Unique. The reason I was asking is I am down to less than 1/4 lb of powder and will need to place an order in the next week of so. Argh... Decisions Decisions...


EDIT: What is the major bummer is that I can not get the Win231 locally. I have to order it. That means to be worthwhile I have to order a dumptruck full and pay hazmat fee.

[Fjold]

W231 will not get the full potential out of the 357 loads, it just burns too fast for that cartridge case. It will burn a lot cleaner than the Unique.

[f4tweet]

Be careful of a double charge of powder in large or magnum cases. 231 is a fast burning powder. I would try something that fills the 357 case and is slower burning. Maybe AA-7, Power Pistol.

[Cowboy T]

I would suggest you try 2400 for .357 Magnum. This is the traditional powder for that round and for good reason. I use it with very good results with both cast and jacketed bullets.

[MaHoTex]

I would suggest you try 2400 for .357 Magnum. This is the traditional powder for that round and for good reason. I use it with very good results with both cast and jacketed bullets.

Thanks Cowboy. I will see if I can pick up a pound locally and give it a try.

[anothergunnut]

I use three different powders for 357. I use a light charge of Bullseye for soft shooting 125 gr LRN, I use a standard charge of Unique for a mid-range JHP load and I use 2400 when I want a maximum load in 357 or 44 mag. One of the downsides of 2400 is that it is more expensive because you have to use more of it. For example, Alliant recommends 9.6 grains of Unique or 17.5 grains of 2400 as the load for the 125 gr GDHP.

[J-cat]

231 is not cleaner than Unique. Unique isn't really that dirty. Accuracy is more important than clenliness, if you care about that.

[Cowboy T]

Anothergunnut's point is well taken; different powders for different strengths of loads. I should've asked if you're planning on light, medium, or close to full-power loads in your .357M cartridges. 2400 is excellent for 3/4-power to full-power. Bullseye and Titegroup are excellent for lighter loads (say, .38 Spl- or .38 Spl +P-like). My "light" .357M load feels a lot like .38 Spl +P. That load leaves the cases so clean that I actually don't have to tumble them afterwards. Imagine that!

I would seriously give Bullseye a consideration if you're doing lighter loads. That's the traditional powder for .38 Spl...again, for very good reason. And it's very economical.

BTW, all of my loads using these two powders give me excellent precision if the shooter does his part. That's not because the shooter is a great reloader (I'm not, far from it). It's because of matching the load's pressure to the hardness/strength of the cast boolit, and due to proper boolit sizing for the gun. These two issues are very, very important.

[XDRoX]

For light to medium loads in 9mm, 45acp, 38spl and 357 there is not a better powder out there than WST.

[MaHoTex]

Anothergunnut's point is well taken; different powders for different strengths of loads. I should've asked if you're planning on light, medium, or close to full-power loads in your .357M cartridges.

Solely light loads for paper punching. Nothing more than that. I simply want to make shooting the Ruger GP100 less expensive. However, I would like to do it while keeping the gun clean. The past few times it has been so dirty that it is a real bear to clean.

[bruceflinch]

Solely light loads for paper punching. Nothing more than that. I simply want to make shooting the Ruger GP100 less expensive. However, I would like to do it while keeping the gun clean. The past few times it has been so dirty that it is a real bear to clean.

I load both W231 & Unique in .38+P. The W231 is cleaner burning IMO.

If your GP100 is stainless as mine is, You should get a cleaning cloth @ your local gunstore for Stainless finish guns. Safariland's is called Lead Away. I just ran out of another brand, forgot the name. They are for Stainless only!

I cut it up in small patches & use it to rub the residue off surfaces w/ very little effort. Now the face of the cylinder is a bear to clean, regardless.

[MaHoTex]

I load both W231 & Unique in .38+P. The W231 is cleaner burning IMO.

If your GP100 is stainless as mine is, You should get a cleaning cloth @ your local gunstore for Stainless finish guns. Safariland's is called Lead Away. I just ran out of another brand, forgot the name. They are for Stainless only!

I cut it up in small patches & use it to rub the residue off surfaces w/ very little effort. Now the face of the cylinder is a bear to clean, regardless.

Yep, stainless here as well and the problem place is the face of the wheel. Argh. I am hopeful that I can get a little cleaner using different recipe because the factory loads are usually fine with little residue on side of the cylinder.